Despite being a connoisseur’s delight, this new experience centre of a coffee estate from Kodaikanal doesn’t overwhelm with buzzwords
Tiramisu French toast and Rosti Kejriwal
Sundays are meant for leisurely walks in the Fort district. After admiring the colonial buildings (our favourite pass time) against the backdrop of an unusually blue sky that sultry morning, we dropped by Nandan Coffee’s new flagship outlet. It isn’t just a café, but more of an experience centre that celebrates three generations of the brand’s coffee-brewing heritage, sustainable farming, and artisanal craftsmanship, sourced from their estate in Kodaikanal. The best part — the space isn’t overwhelming because it still exudes the warmth of a coffee shop.
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Interiors of the Fort cafe
Designed by Farida Mariwala Interiors — with installations by Faizan Khatri, this two-level space blends modern aesthetics with natural elements. There are seats by the large window, where abundant sunlight pours in. There is also seating downstairs, and a communal table and lounge area on the mezzanine floor. Photographs of their staff at the estate, a video on the estate-to-cup journey and captioned history of the brand’s origins adorn the beige walls.
Ahead of their launch today on World Coffee Day, they have invited friends and family for tasting. We join Yahvi Mariwala — the third-generation entrepreneur who proudly takes us through Nandan Coffee’s journey that began with her grandparents — Hansraj and Hansa Mariwala over 30 years ago, transforming a barren patch in the Palani Hills into Nandanvan. A framed photo of the couple next makes the space feel just like home.
Also Read: International Coffee Day: Elevate your coffee routine with these must-try recipes
An Americano, cappuccino and nachni butter cookies. Pics/Anurag Ahire
We started by browsing through the hand-harvested beans grown under the estate’s unique microclimate and roasted from light to dark roast profiles. The staff lets you sample brewed coffee before you select your beans and roast. First, we settled on 70 per cent Selection 9 Medium and 30 per cent Hawaiin Red Caturra, and thought it felt smooth on the palate, without the overpowering floral notes. When 10 per cent Robusta was added to it — making it a 60:30:10 ratio — it was a surprise for our palate, thanks to the added body to the texture. We can safely say, this is our new favourite.
Yahvi Mariwala
We moved on to the Create Your Own Coffee station, where we learnt the art of coffee blending and brewing. Our barista Shariq Hussain shared hands-on experience that immerses visitors in the craft of coffee making. He demonstrated it once and allowed us to use the equipment for making our cuppa. His latte art was A-rate, and ours was leaning on the abstract. “If you have steamed the milk correctly and poured it right, the coffee will still taste great. It comes with practice,” Hussain encourages us.
Yahvi speaks passionately of their unfenced estate, where bison and elephants roam freely. The estate’s unique microclimate, enriched by natural water harvesting, organic farming principles, and the coexistence of wildlife, produces coffee that is as rich in flavour. She is infusing it with innovation and modernity. The packaging and cups are a hat-tip to Nandanvan’s landscape.
Shariq Hussain brews coffee
For food, the menu salutes the flavours of South India, like the estate in Kodaikanal. We tried the Mari-wala scramble (R445); the podi and parmesan were an unusual combination but a hit. The nachni porridge (Rs 545) was wholesome and can be a meal by itself. Our favourite was the tiramisu French toast (R645) and rosti Kejriwal (Rs 545) — both felt like hugs on a plate. Thankfully, the food doesn’t digress from the coffee.
For Yahvi, coffee is a tool that connects communities, nurtures the environment, and enriches daily life, and there’s plenty of storytelling along the way. This, we feel, might help separate them from being just another coffee shop in an overcrowded market.
Nandan Coffee
Opens: Today
At: Mulla House, opposite Central Bank Head Office, Fort.
Call: 7738069879
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