A recent debate around what constitutes as authentic rasam has given us enough reason to break down the discussion as well as share a recipe and a curated guide
Rasam rice by chef Marina Balakrishnan
On a drippy monsoon morning, Saee Koranne-Khandekar was craving for a hot serving of rasam. The author and culinary consultant posted a rasam recipe reel on her Instagram. The recipe used broth made from chicken bones as the base of the rasam. Little did she expect that she’d receive comments dissing the use of meat in her rasam. “I got messages such as “I can’t even look at this” and “You have ruined rasam” because people have a stereotypical notion that a rasam is vegetarian/Brahminical food. The use of chicken bones in it somehow offended this perception. The interesting thing is that meat-based rasams are absolutely commonplace,” Khandekar says.
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Her thread included many followers sharing versions of crab, prawn, and mutton rasams that are considered delicacies. “All traditional meat eating communities are mindful about the manner in which they consume the animal, making sure to use all parts of it in respect. Using bones, therefore, is common. It also has healing properties,” she adds, pointing to the problem that commercial eateries have typically only presented vegetarian versions of rasam. “And as consumers, we have not bothered to open our minds and study the traditional foods of the country, and so it is easy to stereotype and get offended when something outside of that stereotype is presented. Vegetarianism is being glorified, most often for the wrong reasons, and so, meat eating communities and foods are facing this kind of baseless debate for fare that has, for centuries, been traditionally eaten,” she says.
While the word “rasam” is typical to Tamil Nadu and Kerala, thin, spiced broths exist across India under different names such as saar/saaru. “In Maharashtra, the alni is an example of a similar meat soup in which bone broth forms the base, along with herbs and mild spices. Another name for rasam in Andhra/Telangana is chaaru,” Khandekar explains.
Juhu-based chef and founder of Oottupura by @thatthalasserygirl, Marina Balakrishnan, loves her peppercorn version with rice and poppadam. “Rasam comprises of a souring agent (tomato or tamarind), rasam powder and crushed peppercorns. It is mainly consumed during the monsoon to keep you warm. It’s a perfect remedy for common cold and cough too,” says Balakrishnan, who normally make a pepper rasam at home. “Depending on the season, I prefer making a lighter one with milder spices in the rasam powder. During the monsoon, I up the spices, to make the rasam more intense,” says Balakrishnan.
Chicken rasam
INGREDIENTS
For the powder
>> 1 tsp cumin seed
>> 2 tgsp coriander seeds
>> 1 tsp pepper corn
>> 1 tsp chana dal
>> 2 red chillies
>> curry leaves
>> 1 inch cinnamon bark/cassia
For the Rasam
>> 250 gm chicken
>> 1 tomato, chopped
>> 1 onion, chopped
>> ½ tsp turmeric
>> 3-4 garlic cloves, crushed
>> 1 tsp jeera
>> ½ tsp hing
>> Few curry leaves
>> Ghee
>> Salt to taste
METHOD FOR THE POWDER
Dry roast ingredients for rasam powder until the curry leaves are crisp, store
FOR THE RASAM
In a separate pot, add ghee and make a tadka of ginger, garlic, tomato until soft. Add chicken, salt and turmeric. Cook on high heat for about a minute. Add 2-3 spoons prepared rasam powder .
Top with a litre of water. Bring to boil and simmer for 15 minutes, strain into another pot. Adjust the seasoning and add chopped coriander stems and leaves. Make a tadka of garlic, jeera, hing, curry leaves and add to the rasam pot. Serve piping hot.
Recipe by Saee Khandekar
Rasam guide
Chef’s signature rasam
Chef Vinayak prepares a pepper rasam that is close to the one made in Madurai.
At: The Bigg Small Cafe + Bar, Saki Naka
Time: 12 pm to 1:30 am
Call: 9324550288
Cost: Rs 250
Tomato garlic rasam
This recipe is followed throughout central Kerala. They use freshly hand-pounded garlic and pepper with tomatoes and other condiments.
At: NairOnFire, Bandra and Mahim. time 11 am to 11 pm
Call: 9324059522
Cost: Rs 295
Smoked tomato and rasam soup
The rasam is made with charcoal roasted tomatoes, and marinated with crushed coriander. It’s served like tea with dehydrated curry leaves and fresh rasam masala.
At: The Moon Village, 36B, Khar West
Time: 10 am to 10 pm
Call: 8828433688
Cost: Rs 245
Classic pours
Originals from Matunga’s South Indian eateries.
Shree Sunders
At: Opposite Kabutarkhana, Matunga
Time: 7 am to 10 pm
Call: 8879565958
Aarya Bhavan
At: Shop No. 9 & 10, Lakhamsi Napoo Road, Matunga.
Time: 7 am to 10 pm
Call: 9292921919
Cafe Mysore
At: Durlabh Niwas, 1/461, Matunga
Time: 8 am to 10 pm
Call: 02224021230
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