The forever kebab

A staple on almost all Indian menus (and perfect to go with a peg or two), the hara bhara kebab is most wanted, but also one that very few can get right

For this writer, who loves her glass of wine, having the right snack with the drink makes for the perfect evening. The usual fare includes Blue Lays, paneer tikka and masala peanuts. But that was until we ordered a plate of hara bhara kebab, just rightly spiced, at a dive bar in Kalanagar after the first lockdown was relaxed. And the realisation dawned  that this easily is the king of kebabs, for vegetarians at least.

Vinod Turi, who helms the kitchen at K Bhagat Tarachand, says, “Kebabs, in general, are a favourite appetiser for Indians. Originating as a recipe in the kitchens of the Nizams of Hyderabad, the hara bhara kebab is the perfect tidbit to whet the appetite.” A mix of palak, peas and spices, the veg pattie is a mainstay at most Indian eateries, from the humble joint to the five-star. Chef-restaurateur Yajush Malik thinks it’s a good option for vegans or those who want to avoid paneer and cheese-based snacks.

Chef Turi of iconic eatery K Bhagatchand Tarachand, says that the magic lies in how the kebabs are fried. Pic/Sameer Markande

That being said, when this writer set out on a voyage to discover the best the city had to offer, it was a disappointment. Most plates lacked character, minus punch, making the mix of spinach and peas a texture that’s far from palatable.  Head chef at North Indian speciality restaurant Oye Kake, Utsad Vinod Rana, explains why.

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Chef Yajush Malik says that the hara bhara kebab is a good replacement for cheese-based snacks for vegans

“The spinach and green peas need to be blanched before all the ingredients are blended. To balance out the moisture of the spinach, most recipes use bread crumbs or corn flour. If the proportions are skewed, the mixture could dry out. Also, often, we don’t remove all the excess water after blanching the spinach. This could ruin the recipe,” he thinks.

The mediocre variety also owe their less than legendary status to the fact that they are often oily. To which, chef Turi says, “The oil needs to be sizzling when frying the kebabs. Generally speaking, the higher the temperature, the less the oil absorbed by the food and the crispier the result. So, if your oil is not hot enough, your kebabs will go limp and taste greasy. But, if the temperature is too high, they could darken on the outside and taste raw on the inside.” Chef Malik has another suggestion, “Pan fry them, instead of deep frying. This not only preserves nutrients and the green colour, but also uses less oil.”

Pair ir with
Chef Rana recommends you have it with chaas or lassi. Chef Malik suggests a plate be had with a glass of jaljeera. But home chef Anuradha Modhora says it goes best with lime soda or bourbon on the rocks.

Easy tips for the best Kebab
By homechef Anuradha Modhora  
>> Use fresh seasonal peas and fresh spinach
>> Roast the besan well, but don’t burn 
>> Go easy on the spice so it’s fragrant, but not overbearing
>> Use ingredients in balanced proportions

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