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Catwalk capital

Updated on: 23 March,2025 07:16 AM IST  |  Mumbai
Shweta Shiware |

Designer Anamika Khanna, whose digital show marked the reunion of Lakmé Fashion Week and the Fashion Design Council of India in 2021, returns to open the 25th-anniversary edition with her prêt line in Mumbai

Catwalk capital

Models showcasing ensembles from Anamika Khanna Couture 2021

Shweta ShiwareFirst things first: India’s biggest fashion event, Lakmé Fashion Week in partnership with FDCI (LFW x FDCI), is back, celebrating 25 years with a runway-meets-gala on March 30 at Mumbai’s Jio World Convention Centre. Timeless Couture, the grand finale theme, brings back designers who have previously helmed an LFW finale. “It’s a celebration of heritage and modern influences, showcasing the evolution of Indian fashion,” says Sunanda Khaitan, vice president of Lakmé India.


Finale shows have shaped careers. “Many designers have scaled their brands through the visibility and consumer traction these showcases offer,” says Jaspreet Chandok, group vice president, Reliance Brands. Some of LFW’s most talked-about finale shows—often featuring actor Kareena Kapoor Khan—have influenced trends and retail impact.


In October 2008, Sabyasachi Mukherjee presented Bridal Sutra at LFW finale, NCPA Mumbai. Pic/ZGetty ImagesIn October 2008, Sabyasachi Mukherjee presented Bridal Sutra at LFW finale, NCPA Mumbai. Pic/ZGetty Images


Lakmé Fashion Week debuted in 2000, uniting FDCI, Lakmé, and IMG to create India’s first international-standard fashion platform. British model Jodie Kidd was the showstopper for finale designers Wendell Rodricks and Tarun Tahiliani. The Mumbai edition in 2001 attracted global buyers like Selfridges, while Sabyasachi Mukherjee made his debut in 2002.

In 2006, Lakmé and IMG parted ways with FDCI, rebranding as Lakmé Fashion Week and shifting exclusively to Mumbai. That same year, GenNext was introduced, later propelling over 125 designers, including Aneeth Arora, Rimzim Dadu, Nachiket Barve, Kunal Rawal and Dhruv Kapoor. In 2010, LFW aligned with Indian retail cycles, moving to summer/resort and winter/festive seasons.

Men’s fashion in India has evolved over 25 years from a niche interest to a growing force, with designers like Deepit Chugh (Line Outline), Arjun Saluja (Rishta) Rohitash Notani (Rosani) and Sushant Abrol (Countrymade) introducing forward-thinking ideas in menswear at LFW x FDCI Men’s fashion in India has evolved over 25 years from a niche interest to a growing force, with designers like Deepit Chugh (Line Outline), Arjun Saluja (Rishta) Rohitash Notani (Rosani) and Sushant Abrol (Countrymade) introducing forward-thinking ideas in menswear at LFW x FDCI 

In 2021, after 15 years apart, FDCI and LFW reunited for a phygital fashion week. Since then, they’ve staged two editions annually—one in New Delhi and one in Mumbai—proving that Indian fashion thrives in unity.

“Indian fashion’s ‘nascent’ stage is over—we’ve arrived,” says Sunil Sethi, chairman, FDCI. “Social media, global exposure, and corporate investment have changed the game. Designers are expanding beyond metros, establishing retail presence in tier-2 and tier-3 cities—proof that the customer is here.”
From industry impact to global reach, Sunanda Khaitan, Jaspreet Chandok, and Sunil Sethi break down what keeps LFW x FDCI ahead of the curve.  Edited for length and clarity.

Sunanda Khaitan, Jaspreet Chandok and Sunil SethiSunanda Khaitan, Jaspreet Chandok and Sunil Sethi

. Where Fashion and Beauty Move as One
Sunanda Khaitan: “Fashion and beauty are fluid—they exist in constant conversation, shaping both how one looks and feels. At LFW, this synergy is foundational. When the Met Gala’s Garden of Time theme signalled a floral movement, we worked with Rohit Bal on a rose-inspired finale in October 2024. As sculpted silhouettes dominated Milan and Paris, we collaborated with Rahul Mishra to shape its Indian beauty expression in March 2024. The goal? A seamless synergy where beauty and fashion flow together, creating something greater than the sum of their parts.”

. Pushing Boundaries while Powering New Talent
Jaspreet Chandok: “Fashion thrives when designers do. That’s why industry-building is key—whether through GenNext for emerging talent, the Circular Design Challenge, which promotes eco-design, zero-waste production, and carbon neutrality, or Nexa Spotlight, which funds a showcase for rising talent. Designers like Naushad Ali and Shweta Gupta have benefited from these programmes.”

Innovation isn’t just about predicting trends—it’s about shaping them. To make shows accessible, we introduced virtual and 360-degree experiences with Meta and an Instagram-exclusive show with Masaba Gupta in 2015. During the pandemic, we partnered with FDCI to create a unified fashion week, ensuring no season was missed. Even with zero sales, we continued with digital shows, quarantine bubbles, and drive-in formats—because fashion doesn’t pause.”

. From Global Aspirations to a Homegrown Industry
Sunil Sethi: “My association with LFW dates back to 2000, when I took designers to Selfridges, and later to Ireland, Italy, and Russia for India promotions. As FDCI president in 2008, I led them to Tranoi, a key B2B fashion trade show in Paris. Back then, designers focused on prêt, aiming for boutiques in Paris, Milan, and New York—not just for sales but for prestige. While the ambition remains, the industry has expanded from prêt to diffusion and bridal couture, with designers now showcasing red carpet and occasion wear.

Menswear has expanded, and once-niche categories like streetwear and athleisure have found a dedicated audience. Today, designers are well-versed in supply chain logistics, ethical compliance, and manufacturing standards. Indian fashion has gained international recognition, while also expanding into tier-2 and tier-3 cities, bridging global and local markets.”

. Nurturing Young Talent, Engaging Gen Z
Jaspreet Chandok: “With shrinking attention spans, short-form content is key. We collaborate with content creators to capture the shows in ways that resonate with Gen Z, driving engagement. Our Instagram now has 1.1 million followers—without spending a rupee on promotions.

Digital natives crave forward-thinking, expressive fashion. That’s why we’ve introduced streetwear segments with brands like Two Point Two, Jaywalking, Biskit, Six5Six Street, and All You Can Street. Last year, FDCI curated a denim edit featuring Ashish N Soni, Countrymade, Kanika Goyal, 11:11/Eleven Eleven, and Dhruv Kapoor.”

Sunanda Khaitan: “Backstage content is another big shift. Gen Z audiences want to see how models get ready, how fashion and beauty come together, and how designers bring their vision to life. Our live streaming on YouTube and Meta reaches over 30 million Indians, with content circulating for weeks, keeping engagement high.”

. Why Fashion Week Still Matters
Jaspreet Chandok: “LFW x FDCI is India’s official fashion week, representing the best of Indian fashion. A key focus now is international expansion—we’re inviting global buyers, media, and stakeholders from Paris, Milan, and London Fashion Weeks to create opportunities for Indian designers and position them on global platforms. The Indian market is evolving—designer businesses are thriving, retail networks expanding, and corporate investments increasing. Fashion Week remains essential, offering young designers a cost-effective platform far more accessible than independent showcases.”

Sunil Sethi: “Fashion weeks are about business. While some designers opt for standalone shows, LFW remains a vital platform for visibility and growth. It’s more than an event—it’s a thriving ecosystem shaping the future of Indian fashion. At 25, LFW x FDCI isn’t a fly-by-night operation but a collaboration of India’s premier organisations, committed to long-term industry growth.”

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