Recreate classic looks from Heeramandi with this fashion guide

There’s a new vintage muse in town inspired by the 1920s Lahore of Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s latest production. We speak to a fashion stylist for quick tips to assimilate this style into your wardrobe

Even if period dramas aren’t your thing, it’s hard not to be awestruck by the extravagant costumes worn by the stunning cast in director Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s new series, Heeramandi: The Diamond Bazaar. Designed by Rimple and Harpreet Narula, the show’s outfits evoke luxuriance and a maximalist aura that, although reminiscent of the 1920s, elicits longing sighs from lovers of contemporary fashion. We reached out to stylist Khushboo Mishra for some practical suggestions to add a touch of that diamond sparkle inspired by the show’s brand of courtesan-core to your festive and traditional looks.

Sonakshi Sinha wears a silk saree with embellishments that represents a slightly restrained take on this aesthetic

A heritage throwback

“Heeramandi’s aesthetics are characterised by opulence, intricate details and vibrant colours. The silhouettes, textiles, and artwork reflect a fusion of Mughal, Persian and Indian influences, creating a rich tapestry of cultural motifs and designs. Lavish patterns, luxurious fabrics such as silk and velvet, and elaborate craftsmanship convey a sense of grandeur,” Mishra explains.

Sinha’s velvet and zardozi embroidery come together for a rich and refined period look

She adds that the distinctive maximalism of these looks is achieved through brocade and embroidered elements, and by accentuating the outfits with elaborate jewellery. Further, the use of distinctive motifs ranging from floral patterns to geometric designs adds to the outfits’ period appeal.

Khushboo Mishra

Elegant extravagance

The simplest way to imbibe the Heeramandi aesthetic is with a saree that features intricate zari work reminiscent of Mughal art. Mishra suggests accessorising these with a statement Kundan necklace. Alternatively, you could pair a solid-coloured salwar-kurta or co-ord set with a vibrant dupatta that has Persian-inspired patterns. Set off this outfit against a fabric clutch featuring elaborate motifs and heavy, ornate jewellery with precious or semi-precious stones, she advises.

Richa Chadha wears stone-studded, ornate jewellery

Earthy contrasts

Rich jewel tones (sapphire blue or emerald green) and earthy colours (rust red or deep brown) work best with this style. You could wear them in the form of silk pants or a full skirt, paired with a similar-toned or contrasting kurta or blouse with embroidered zardozi elements.

Chadha’s look in the series exemplifies how kohl-rimmed eyes and a deep lip can complete the Heeramandi look

For a more pared-down look, stick to a monotone base, accentuated by a silk or brocade scarf that features traditional motifs like paisleys or floral designs. For footwear, choose embellished juttis or sandals with intricate embroidery or metallic accents, echoing the detailed craftsmanship in the footwear sported by the show’s cast. Finally, complete the outfit with vibrant lip shades, subtle eye makeup, and an intricate hairstyle — a braided updo, a messy fishtail braid or a gelled vintage hairdo — to complement your overall look.

Aditi Rao Hydari wears rich jewel tones and ornate motifs, which are quintessential elements of this aesthetic. Pics courtesy/Instagram

The vintage style guide

Fabrics: Silk organza, tissue, velvet, brocade
Colours: Rich jewel tones and earthy shades with traditional motifs
Jewellery: Elaborate designs with stone accents
Make-up: Bold lip and kohl-rimmed eyes

An all-brocade look by Rao Hydari is a hat-tip to the maximalist overtones of Heeramandi

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