The family behind popular seafood adda, Chaitanya upholds their Malvani traditions with a new establishment in the same area that introduces foodies to global coastal dishes through a fine-dine, yet home-style experience
Teriyaki salmon donburi with Norwegian salmon, edamame sticky rice, and burnt garlic asparagus
We are quite at home seated inside Dadar’s latest eatery Coast and Bloom, with half of the Walke family of the famed seafood haunt Chaitanya. The interiors — with conch shells, handmade coconut fibre netting and a concrete accent wall mimicking a wave — pronounce the coastal theme; so despite being plush, the ambience is familiar and cosy for this seaside-raised Mumbaikar.
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Roasted plantains with cilantro chiffonade
Extending the legacy
We are seated in one of the two private dining areas. There’s also a well-lit family-styled, high-seating space with a moody bar ambience. This dual set-up for a familial dinner and young patrons is where the legacy of Chaitanya extends through the vision of Coast and Bloom that opens its doors tomorrow. In 2023, three decades after the launch of Chaitanya, Mitra Walke, the second-generation owner of the family-run business, carries forward the aim that his mother set out with — to make better known the wholesomeness of Malvani fare — but this time, with a new generation, one that seeks fine-dining experiences and an experimental global cuisine backed by a foundation that only tradition and home-style food can offer. And this legacy is anchored by the woman seated with us, Surekha Walke, Mitra’s mother.
Kokum shrimps with blanched sea shrimps on haas avocados, rocket leaves, fresh fennel, peanut granola, and kokum kala khatta dressing
Rewind track
“In 1993, when we opened the restaurant in Malvan, I followed my mother’s advice to serve guests fresh food — the day’s catch is served on that day itself,” Surekha tells us. Pointing out the window to a nearby building, Mitra shares, “We first set up there as a takeaway and delivery kitchen. I remember that when we moved Chaitanya to Mumbai in 2010, the building we’re in currently was coming up. Our first customers were a few Koreans who were doing glass work here. They ordered chapatis.” Surekha adds, “And our first newspaper article in 2010 was with mid-day, too.”
Wood-roasted chicken liver
An authentic offering
Chef de cuisine, Prasad Parab, also hailing from Malvan, brings recipes and flavours from the coastal township along with dishes from the oriental and continental coasts. Along with taking Malvani offerings to Gen Z patrons, the family was keen to also cater to their expanding taste preferences. Armed with Mitra’s coast-hopping experience across various global cuisines, they dipped into chef Parab’s knowledge of international cuisines from a 23-year-long career to curate the nearly 70-dish menu. Mixologist Shobith Salian has added eight cocktails inspired by coastal flavours from Goa, Lakshadweep, Mangaluru, and an in-house Malvani tirphal liquor.
Oysters Rockefeller with baked oysters, sambuca and butter cream
This includes working with home chefs and the gatekeepers of recipes — Malvani moms, two of whom we meet in the kitchen. The thoughtfully-curated menu highlights traditional cooking techniques such as cooking chicken liver directly on cashew wood with salt and Malvani masala; motla which includes a banana-wrapped fish cooked over burning cashew leaves, and using triphal, a mouth-numbing spice, in mackerel. Even the classic chicken broth banga (Rs 425) and a no-nonsense kolambi khichdi (Rs 655) are available.
More than seafood
The bar and high-chair seating extend into the family section. Pics/Shadab Khan
A mark Mitra aims to make is for coastal cuisine to shed the ‘solely seafood’ tag. “Vegetarian dishes are an important part of the coastal diet. Malvan food has many vegetarian options such as neer phanas and kaccha kele; that every day, our plate will have a patte ki sabzi. We have seen this balance of fish and vegetables across international coasts,” the Walkes tell us. This wide offering is reflected in the menu. The cilantro plantains (R455) include crushed roasted plantains to help absorb and release more flavour. This Hong Kong-styled dish with a cilantro chiffonade sings of burnt garlic and ginger, but the highlight is the plantain’s firm yet crumbly texture. The spanakopitas (Rs 525) is a nod to the Athenian coast with red spinach and goat’s milk feta wrapped in phyllo with an earthy red pepper tomato sauce.
A taste of the coast
Surekha and Mitra Walke
Other highlights are the oysters Rockefeller (Rs 955), a New Orleans touch with creamy sambuca-baked oysters. From the trio of prawns (R1,295), the Mangalorean Kundapur coconut crisp is a crumbed and deep-fried sphere of minced and whole prawns that is elevated with lemony accents from Kerala green pepper. Don’t miss the luxurious flavour profiles with minimal ingredients in dishes like pan-seared Alaskan king scallops trifolati (R2,455) and teriyaki-glazed Norwegian salmon (R1,455). Chef Parab concludes, “We are not a butter and cheese-heavy restaurant. You will find authentic home-style food from the coasts that follows the seasonal availability of ingredients. We plan on introducing regional fish from the Malvan, Goa, Mangaluru, and Kerala coasts like false trevally and ladyfish in seasonal menus.”
Coast and Bloom
At: Second floor, Kohinoor Square, Shivaji Park, Dadar West.
Time: 12 pm to 12 am
Call: 9137019345
Log on to: @coastandbloom.mumbai
Cost: Rs 2,500 (for two, without alcohol); Rs 4,000 (for two, with alcohol)
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