With a city-based gelateria’s newly launched variation of this Italian cream bun, we scout around for other plays on cream breads
Representation pic
Like every culture has its own version of bread wrapped around a meat or vegetable filling, whether a hotdog, the Lebanese sfeeha, or vada pav, it seems as though we also have our own versions of a cream bun. If we didn’t make do or innovate them, we’d all go hungry or at the very least, dissatisfied. Now, while the term, maritozzo might be a new one for most sweet-toothed Mumbaikars, its description will ring nostalgic bells. This Italian cream bun is a sweet bread beautifully packed with whipped cream, and sounds a lot like the local bakery buttercream buns we might have grown up eating. You can’t go wrong with this gloriously sweet carb hit. And city eateries are making sure to offer maritozzi (plural) with twists.
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Maritozzo; (right) Nikhil Jain
Coppetto Artisan Gelato launched their variation of the maritozzo with gelato in a sweet bun instead of whipped cream. Founder Nikhil Jain loves the combination of warm bread that isn’t as sweet as brioche and cold gelato, noting that it strikes a good balance. He adds, “People have a certain taste for desserts today; they are less tolerant of excessive sugar. The bread reduces the frozenness and sweetness of the gelato, making for a good pastry dessert. Executive head baker at Bandra’s TwentySeven Bakehouse, chef Rachelle Andrade serves the city a brioche bun with mascarpone — it is creamier and richer than whipped cream and gives a better mouthfeel, she notes. The fluffy bread and cream make for a light bite even though the maritozzo is quite large. The bakery also tops its product with seasonal toppings such as cherry compôte, mango passion fruit and milk chocolate.
Chef Rachi Gupta; (right) Brioche with gelato
Recalling a trip to Italy where the aim was all things gelato, chef Rachi Gupta of The Gelato Bar and The Bread Bar shares, “Maritozzo is traditionally a sweet bread with a whipped cream filling, some jam, and sugar dusting on top.” Bandra’s The Gelato Bar offers an in-house brioche bun with gelato. She continues, “During the winters, gelaterias [in Italy] serve crêpes, breads and pancakes because it’s too cold to eat gelato.” The combination of fluffy breads filled with cold treats seemed only inevitable. “In Sicily, granita or sorbet is served on the side of the brioche during the summers; warm buttery milk breads are also used to make a gelato sandwich or are dipped in gelato. You’ll see people eating it with a cup of coffee, or having a traditional breakfast of brioche and gelato,” chef Gupta tells us.
Chef Rachelle Andrade
But how far removed from the original can one go? That’s the best part about food, chef Andrade remarks. She says, “There can be unlimited variations, there is no right and wrong with maritozzo.” Jain adds, “It’s fun, everyone is doing something different. And as people [get used to] maritozzo, we can add different ideas to it like topping it off with coarse nut powder and seasonal fruit. Right now, we offer it with any gelato of your choice; my favourite flavour to pair it with is tiramisu.” The eateries have also had no trouble introducing the dish to customers. Chef Andrade adds, “With people travelling or reading and seeing things online, more people are aware of maritozzo and are curious to know what it tastes like.” With a simple bread-sweet filling-bread concept, maritozzo variations with croissants and donuts filled with different creams and gelatos have already become a favourite across city menus. Perhaps the only time this writer has savoured the traditional Italian bread-cream combination is a homemade version crafted by her sister, who assures that the dish is delightful to eat and easy to prepare. A cue perhaps, for Mumbaikars to create their maritozzo versions at home.
Sweet, happy ending
From the short list of stories, our favourite is the one where a man gives his wife-to-be a maritozzo with jewellery hidden inside. Eventually, marito or maritozzo became a term of endearment for husbands.
Scoop up
. Maritozzo, sweet bun with gelato
At Coppetto Artisan Gelato at Bandra, Chowpatty, and Juhu outlets.
Cost Rs 250
. Maritozzo, brioche with cherry mascarpone cream
At TwentySeven Bakehouse, Pali Hill, Bandra West.
Cost Rs 180
. Gelato sandwiches with brioche and croissants
At The Gelato Bar, Pali Hill, Bandra West.
Cost Rs 280
. Brioche ice-cream sandwich
At Toast Doughnut Shop, Pandurang Budhkar Marg, Lower Parel.
Cost Rs 350 onwards
. Croissant gelato sandwich
At Affogato, 17th Road, Khar West.
Cost Rs 290 onwards
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