Costume drama! How fashion plays a big part in period films

With the costumes of Mohenjo Daro making news, here’s a peek into how fashion plays a big part of period films

Costume designer Anju Modi travelled across Indore, Nashik, Pune, Paithan and Ajanta to create costumes for Bajirao Mastani. Floor-skimming anarkalis, angrakhas and Farshi pajamas, jaamas and dhotis added to the brilliance of the visual stunner. With period films and historicals becoming a staple in Bollywood, costume design — one of the most important facets of the genre — have become a major area of focus.

A still from Mohenjo Daro

The costumes of another epic love story, Mohenjo Daro, are under scrutiny right now. The Hrithik Roshan-Pooja Hegde-starrer which released this Friday is set in 2016 BC in the ancient city of Mohenjo-daro in the era of the Indus Valley civilisation.

The film’s director, Ashutosh Gowariker, had faced a similar backlash when he began making Jodhaa Akbar. He says he was expecting this backlash with Mohenjo Daro, "It had to be a teaser which talked about the film.

The headgear and costumes are mighty elaborate in Mohenjo Daro

We had to establish the pre-historic city before we talked about the story. When I am making a movie and choosing to base it on archaeological findings, then I have to choose one interpretation of it."

Crime mystery Rustom, based on the life of Naval Officer KM Nanavati, released this Friday to rave reviews for its costumes that give the three main characters from the 1950s their own sense of style. Ameira Punvani, who designed the clothes, kept the dress code as realistic as possible.

Vintage sunnies, crisp naval uniforms and retro outfits in Rustom

Even the badges and the medals seen on Akki’s uniform are real and tell stories about the character. Every colour on the uniform represents an achievement through the ribbons. Like a particular colour ribbion is put on the uniform that represents that the officer has jumped off an airplane in a parachute, another colour suggests the number of years of service as a naval officer and so on. Esha Gupta was modelled as an Indian Marilyn Monroe.

Sheen fabrics in jewel tones and diamond jewellery make up Priti Makhija’s wardrobe. Ileana D’Cruz plays Rustom’s wife Cynthia who returns from England.

Punvani styled her on Hollywood actress Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast At Tiffany’s. When she is wed to Rustom, who’s Parsi, her wardrobe reflects the change. To bring in the Parsi streak, Ileana wears traditional Parsi sarees with ghara embroidery.

Set in World War II, Rangoon stars Shahid Kapoor and Saif Ali Khan. For her role of Julia — a Broadway star in the 1940s — Kangana Ranaut will don western attire and short hair.

Shahid Kapoor got a policeman moustache for Rangoon

"I am looking forward to the vintage gowns I get to wear for my role," said Kangana. Saif and Shahid have acquired a military look with a crew cut and thin moustaches. "I am very impressed with the way Dolly aunty (Dolly Ahluwalia) has designed my costume. It’s a period drama,
so the costumes are also very different," Shahid said.

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