Have Mumbaikars had the OG shami kebabs?

Back in the 18^th century, the Nawab of Lucknow - Asaf-ud-Daula happened to lose his teeth owing to the woes of old age. Unable to chew, he urged his royal cooks (also known as Khansama's) to prepare meat cutlets that required minimal effort to chew.

What followed was the invention of mouth-melting, spice-infused galawati kebabs that left an indelible mark on India's culinary heritage. While the Tundey kebabs from the bylanes of Lucknow and Seekh kebabs from Old Delhi are revered across the globe, the kebabs offered in Mumbai have emerged as an archetype.

Bringing expertise from Bayroute, Chef Ajay Thakur tells Midday how the shami kebabs in Mumbai have evolved with diverse ingredients and preparation techniques. The lip-smacking crispy kebab trail found in Byculla, Jogeshwari and Cuff Parade has stimulated taste buds and established a strong foothold in the city's palate.

As someone hailing from Lucknow: the city that boasts of Tundey kebabs, this writer pondered upon a query - Have Mumbaikars encountered the genuine essence of kebabs, or has it morphed into a distinct variation from the original? To find out, Midday.com raided the kitchens of Mughlai, Turkish and Mediterranean chefs in Mumbai who shed light on the historic origins of this superior snack.

To what do we owe these soft, succulent and mouth-melting treats?

Like a whispered secret passed down through generations, shami kebab traces its roots back to the ancient lands of Syria, informs chef Shivraj Shendre, Director of Culinary at The Nines. These flavourful, succulent and spice-kissed delights draw their name from 'Al-sham,' which essentially refers to the Levant region in the Middle East.

Shami kebabs travelled with the people of Syria, to find a home in the palates of local Indians and Pakistanis, adds Shendre. In a different vein, Chef Sedat Firatoglu, the maestro behind The Cosy Box's flavourful kebabs in Lower Parel, enlightens us about the varied spectrum of Turkish kebabs found in India.

"The journey of Turkish kebabs to India can be traced back to historical trade routes and cultural exchanges. Influenced by the Ottoman Empire's expansive reach and interactions with different cultures, Turkish kebabs made their way to the Indian subcontinent, bringing with them a rich tapestry of flavours," recounts the chef.

Over time, these culinary treasures became assimilated into the vibrant mosaic of Indian cuisine. The Mughal Empire, known for its cultural affluence, played a pivotal role in popularising Turkish kebabs in India during the medieval period and today Firatoglu carries forward the legacy by serving Turkish Adana Kebab, Shish Kebab and Doner Kebab to Mumbai's palate.

The secret to its silky, velvety texture

The desi desire to have a freezer well-stocked with kebabs is undeniably strong. May it be a dinner soiree with friends or a late-night snack craving - these shami kebabs are a hot accompaniment. For Indians, these meat cutlets bear sentimental significance handed down from one generation to the next.

What makes them so soft, we ask? Chef Sabby from Masala Library regales us with the secrets that ring in the silky, velvety texture of shami kebabs.

"The shami kebab boasts a texture reminiscent of a galauti kebab, albeit slightly coarser. Its distinctive textural contrast is not attributed to the meat but rather to the incorporation of a unique onion stuffing," shares Chef Sabby.

Aromatics become the running theme for shami kebabs. This is major because, during the reign of Nawabs, the spices used in the region were majorly endowed with aromas. Also, these spices were used to mask the iron flavour of the meat. Hence, the influence of aromatic spices can be seen on each and every kebab that originates from the time of the Mughal dynasty.

In the traditional preparation, the kebab features a center filled with onions marinated in salt and masala, creating a delightful combination of crunch and velvety texture after pan-searing. This preparation is one of the most primal and authentic ways shami kebab used to be served. One can still find this rare style of kebabs in certain pockets of north India like Basi, Bugrasi, Amroha and Azamgarh.

Various regions have their methods of crafting shami kebabs. "In my approach, I begin by marinating lamb sirloin chunks with raw papaya, salt and ginger-garlic paste, followed by an overnight soak of channa dal. This ensures the channa's softness and prevents it from drying out during the cooking process, while the lamb is tenderised for an easier and superior kebab result," continues Sabby.

The next step involves adding whole spices to the lamb in a lagan with generous ghee, allowing it to slowly break down until 80 percent cooked. Channa is then added and roasted over flame, followed by the addition of warm water and covering the lagan with foil for another 15 to 20 minutes of cooking.

Once the meat reaches mouth-melting perfection, it is ground into a paste, and the kebabs are formed by stuffing the center with onions marinated in salt and masala. Finally, a pan with hot ghee is used to achieve a golden-brown "kebab crust" on both sides. These shami kebabs can be relished on their own or paired with Indian bread like rumali roti or ulte tave ka paratha.

Tracing the evolution of shami kebabs in Mumbai

The shami kebab has undergone a fascinating evolution in Mumbai, both in terms of ingredients and preparation techniques - opine chefs.

Drawing a parallel with the iconic biryani, which boasts myriad regional variations, Chef Sabby and Shendre emphasise that the shami kebab has seamlessly assimilated into Mumbai's culinary fabric. The incorporation of locally used spices and the city's distinct flavour profiles have bestowed upon the shami kebab a unique identity, blending tradition with the vibrant essence of the island city

In the heart of Mumbai's streets, Chef Thakur observes a fascinating evolution of the shami kebab at the hands of street vendors and local eateries. Here, the culinary alchemists behind the griddles and skewers have embraced the kebab, infusing it with creative twists laced with spices and innovative fillings to cater to the discerning palates of the city.

Adding a global perspective to the narrative, Chef Firatoglu unveils the Turkish influence on the Mumbai kebab scene. Originating from the ancient Persian migrations, the Turkish kebab has seamlessly blended with the city's diverse food culture. The evolution is vividly evident in the shifting ingredients, preparation techniques and flavours of the shami kebab. It stands as a delectable fusion of Turkish culinary traditions with Mumbai's gastronomy, creating a multicultural plate.

The shami kebab, once a Middle Eastern treasure, has become a culinary masterpiece in the thriving metropolis of Mumbai. With each bite, one can savour the rich history, the inventive twists from local vendors and the global influence that has shaped this iconic dish.