South-East Asian cuisine served haute

Lower Parel's fine dining restaurants and lounge bars had better get their act together. Busaba, with its signature style and quality food, is all set to take the competition, head-on

Lower Parel's fine dining restaurants and lounge bars had better get their act together. Busaba, with its signature style and quality food, is all set to take the competition, head-on

Back in 2001, when Mumbai's culinary landscape boasted only a sprinkling of Chinese, Thai and Italian stand-alone restaurants, restaurateur Nikhil Chib pulled out a rabbit from his hat.

Prawnu00a0Burmese Kaukswe. Pics/Bipin Kokate

That rabbit took the form of Busaba, Mumbai's first ever South-East Asian restaurant and lounge bar. The experiment was a success. And Mumbai's foodies were soon eating out of Chib's hands, as his chefs dished out delicacies from Vietnam, Thailand, Korea, China and Burma.

Now, a decade later, the restaurant has spread its wings to Lower Parel in the space that previously housed Zenzi Mills. The weeknight we walked in, the air exuded a familiar vibe, starting with its understated classy interiors, with lounge seating at one end, by the open bar and a sit-down section at the other end of the floor.
The ambient lighting and non-intrusive fusion music that played in the background helped us slip into relax mode.

After a quick scan of the menu, we settled for our attendant's recommendations: Chicken Momos (Rs 368) and Popcorn Shrimp (Rs 459), and a special from the drinks menu -- Good Morning Vietnam (Rs 494). The Popcorn Shrimp was a hit from the first bite -- fresh, juicy and crisp enough to guarantee a light crackle. With or without the tangy dip, we were sold on it. Refusing to play second fiddle at the table, the Momos didn't disappoint either. These were light; the chicken was tender and the casing was done just right: not thick and doughy with the flour overpowering the filling.

Providing our starters spirited company was Good Morning Vietnam, a vodka-cucumber concoction that took us straight to citrus heaven. Not for the sweet-toothed, though! We didn't waste time in plumbing for our entr ufffdes: Burmese Kaukswe -- Prawn (Rs 606) and the Chicken Bibimbap (Rs 606). It was d ufffdj vu as we tucked into the tried-and-tested Kaukswe -- the prawns were done to perfection, while the smooth, rich, coconut curry broth did a somersault on our palates. The array of toppings from sliced fresh ginger, fresh lime, fried onions to the crispy wonton noodles made the rendezvous memorable.

The Korean-inspired Chicken Bibimbap is comfort food and a meal in itself. This sticky rice preparation was served with shredded carrot, cabbage, diced chicken, chilli paste and was topped with a fried egg. The accompanying clear soup with tofu and mushroom ensured the flavours didn't run riot in this unusual combination. It might be a tad bland for the spice-rimmed Indian palate, but like Busaba itself, it's a cultivated taste that's worth a shot.

At Mathuradas Mills Compound, near Blue Frog, NM Joshi Marg, Lower Parel. Call 67478971/ 72
Busaba didn't know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals.

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