Rogan Josh before you board a Virar fast

A new eatery that has opened shop opposite Churchgate station, has spice in its name but not on its menu. Can we get some zing, please?

After taking the claustrophobic ride to Churchgate station, this is where you can sit and sip on a Fruit Punch while watching the world rush past in a blur.

Spice Rush, the latest SoBo eatery, is enveloped in warm, bright colours. The du00e9cor drips of bright yellow, red, green and blue almost as if paint cans have been upturned on walls. The young vibe of the lower level stands in contrast to a more elegant section upstairs.

Though the menu features mostly north Indian dishes, an odd dish from Kerala crops up thanks to a resident Malayali chef. The guy seems partial to meat eaters, with just a handful of options thrown in for vegetarians.

The Lucknowi Seekh Kebab (Rs 275) is a plate of tender rolls of succulent lamb, mildly spiced. Vegetarians can try the Jalapeno Paneer (Rs 175) that comes with an odd accompaniment: French Fries. But they were the best fries we've tried in a while, so Spice Rush is excused. Just one thing: though the paneer was deliciously soft, there was nothing jalapeno-ey about it.

The Vegetable Stew with Appams (Rs 225) was what we decided to try, but the Kerala native among us was thoroughly disappointed. The Appam was far from fluffy and the stew was runny. The Mutton Rogan Josh
(Rs 285) had an extra pinch of salt and grease. Unoriginal renditions of outdated pop music taking you back to Backstreet Boys, didn't help either.

Spice Rush could do with adding more to its dessert menu that includes Caramel Custard, two flavours of ice-cream and brownies.

At: Industrial Assurance Building, ground floor, VN Road, opposite Churchgate Station. Call: 22838822
Spice Rush didn't know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals.

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