Dress to express: Indie labels that are acing non-binary fashion

Inspired by the spirit of Mumbai’s streets, emerging fashion platforms are creating clothes for anybody and everybody. We showcase a few indie labels that are acing agendered wear

Have you ever been in the women’s section of a clothing outlet and felt that nothing flatters your body type? Or, while browsing shirts and tees in the men’s section, did you wish for a wider spectrum of neon colours, crop tops and funky prints? The restrictive notions that guide the fashion industry and production patterns are perhaps realised in these big small moments. 

One of the new emergent platforms that are challenging these gendered ideas of fashion is Balav. The streetwear company from Kandivali was founded when Vaishnavi Bala was tired of garments that seemed to be deciding how her body should look on her behalf. “I couldn’t wrap my head around how women’s pants are always made in a way for their backside to pop out. T-shirts don’t compliment women with broad shoulders, a heavy chest or a wide hip area. I used to ask myself if these clothes were being made for a certain body type,” Bala says, adding that such constructs push many women to believe that there’s something wrong with their build. Her label was founded based on similar personal and shared experiences. 

When did she realise clothes have nothing to do with gender? Bala believes it resulted from her education in fashion that spans two countries. “I graduated from the National Institute of Fashion Technology in Bengaluru and then, completed my post graduation from an academy in Milan. While Indian formal education sharpened how I approach dressmaking technically, Milan helped me develop my own sensibility in the field.” It is there that she picked up how dress sense, especially on the streets, departs gender constructs and meets an expression of the self. So, does her ideology resonate with her patrons? “We have these cute genderless crop tops that have mostly been bought by men. Men slide into our DMs telling us about the gender-defying styles they really like. That reaffirms what I have set out to do,” she sums up.

Binary who?

Are you keen to challenge binary dressing constraints? Here are Bala’s classic hacks.

. A basic oversized T-shirt: Wear it with a jacket for a formal look or pair it with shorts/pants for a regular grocery run. You might also want to put some thought into your accessories — earrings, caps or shoes — to amp up the look.

. A bulky blazer: Blazers are taking over the fashion world. This festive season, try styling one with a plain saree.

. A pair of baggy pants: Get one that sits well around your waistline but flows freely to prevent an uncomfortable crotch situation. Fluid pants can be paired with a kurta for a festive dance meet-up, with an ill-fitted shirt for a casual look, and with a fitted top for a semi-formal look.

Log on to @balavofficial

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Wear your art: Designer Shruti Biswajit and artist Harsha Biswajit spent years pursuing their respective fields in Milan and New York, until they decided to come together in 2017 to unite their passions, and created Biskit. Based in Chennai, the platform focuses on durability and low wastage and promotes equality by creating gender-neutral fashion and art. From jackets to even art prints, one can see the clear influence of celestial beings in their designs.
Log on to @spacebiskit

Moral of the story: Isha Ahluwalia grew up with her grandmother’s fables being her best friend. Fascinated by freedom to interpret the moral of any story she developed Moral Science that aims to tell its story through visual elements and artistic communication. By using forgotten textiles, they create drama; this Goa-based clothing label is synonymous with numerous pockets and abundant layers.
Log on to @moral_science

Speak up: Mixing up every norm there is until there are none left is what Generation Mixx believes in. The indie platform often blurs the lines of gender that divide us in all fields of life. They have created several lines of apparel that help the owners wear their heart on their sleeves. Brave quotes and unconventional thoughts accompany each design, helping the brand stand out and talk loud.
Log on to @generationmixx

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