Mumbai’s fleeting winter is here; now is the right time to use seasonal produce to relish Maharashtrian fare. Try two easy recipes by culinary gurus Saee Koranne-Khandekar and Keertida Phadke
Amla fried rice made with winter special ambe halad, a fragrant form of turmeric. Pic courtesy/Keertida Phadke
With the drop in temperatures, Mumbai’s markets are teeming with local produce that can be put together for a warm, soul-satisfying meal in this weather. From fresh, leafy vegetables to tender pulses and beans, the availability of seasonal ingredients is at its peak and there cannot be a more auspicious time to move away from fancy fare to indulge in the gifts of winter, cooked the Maharashtrian way.
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Green peppercorn (right) amla or the Indian gooseberry
“Ambe halad is a type of turmeric which looks somewhat like ginger and has a very floral fragrance. This is different from the orange-coloured turmeric we normally use in our kitchens. A simple preparation of ambe halad along with some amla, salt and green peppercorns, which is also a winter specialty, makes for a great pickle. It’s also very nutritious since pepper brings out the bioavailability of turmeric, and is a great cure for cough and cold,” explains Keertida Phadke, chef and regional Indian food chronicler.
There is also an abundance of pulses and beans in the market that can be cooked in a variety of ways to pack nutrition in your plate. “Winters in Maharashtra’s hinterland can be quite biting but also incredibly exciting for the produce that is available during the time. Freshly harvested young hurda (or sorghum) is roasted in the embers of a wood fire on the field, and eaten with a variety of chutneys, jaggery, and thick yoghurt. This is also the season for jaggery and its by-product, kaakvi (sugarcane molasses) which are consumed with breads and suchlike” Saee Koranne-Khandekar, author and culinary consultant, tells us.
Olya harbharyachi usal (Green chickpeas usal)
Ingredients
>> 250 grams shelled ola harbhara/ green chickpeas, washed
>> 1 and 1/2 tbsp groundnut oil
>> 1/4 tsp mustard seeds
>> 8 to 10 fenugreek seeds
>> 2 amsul/ kokum
>> 1/2 tsp sugar
>> Salt, to taste
For the green masala
>> 1 full cup coriander leaves and stems
>> 1/3 cup grated coconut
>> 1/3 cup of cooked green chickpeas
>> 2 green chillies
>> 1 capsicum, top and seeds removed
>> 1/2 inch ginger
>> 1-2 garlic cloves
Method
Heat 1 teaspoon of oil in a pan. Add the washed green chickpeas, sauté, cover and cook for 5 to7 minutes. If your chickpeas are tender, it’s going to cook soon. If not, you might need to add some water and cook it. Once cooked, slot and set aside. Wipe out the pan. While the chickpeas are cooking, grind the green masala and keep it ready. Now in the same pan, heat 1 tablespoon of oil and temper it with mustard and fenugreek seeds. Grind the ingredients for the green masala into a fine paste. Tip in the paste and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes or till it looks glossy. Add the cooked chickpeas, along with 1 cup of hot water, salt, kokum and sugar. If you want a runny consistency, add more water. Let the mixture simmer for 5 to7 minutes to let the flavours combine. Adjust salt and sugar as needed and serve right away with steaming hot rice and a pomegranate salad on the side.
Note: If you don’t have kokum, add lime juice before serving.
Kulthaache saar (Horse gram soup)
Ingredients
>> 1/2 cup whole horse gram
>> 5 cups water
>> 3 to 4 kokum petals
>> 1 tbsp jaggery
>> 4 to 5 garlic cloves, bruised
>> 2 dried red chillies, broken into half
>> 1/4 cup fresh buttermilk or 2 tbsp whisked yogurt (optional)
>> 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
>> 1 tbsp ghee
>> A pinch of asafoetida powder
>> Salt, to taste
>> 6 to 8 curry leaves
Method
Place the horse gram and water in a pan and bring to a boil. Lower the flame and let it simmer for 10 to 15 minutes or until the water turns dark, and is reduced to about three quarters. Strain the liquid. The gram will be cooked but will not turn to mush or dissolve in the water. You can use this to make a salad or a usal. To the strained water, add the salt, kokum and jaggery. Set aside. Heat the ghee in a large pot. Add the cumin seeds, asafoetida, garlic, curry leaves and red chillies. Fry until the garlic turns a golden brown. Quickly add the horse gram liquid and mix well. Bring to a gentle boil and then let it simmer for 2 to 3 minutes. Take off the heat and allow it to cool slightly. Then, add the buttermilk or yogurt (if using) and mix well. Serve immediately as a soup or with soft cooked rice.
Recipe courtesy: Saee Koranne-Khandekar
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