Diwali 2022: Desi chefs suggest how to give the soan papdi an upgrade this festive season

Mocked, loved, and shared, the soan papdi is perhaps the most low profile mithai during Diwali festivities. While a new generation turns to global flavours, desi chefs suggest how to give it an upgrade

No one knows how and when it arrives, but like the inevitable march of time, a packet of soan papdi can be found in most Indian households every Diwali. Its subtle presence and commonality has led to derisive memes, funny takes and comparisons on the Internet. Yet, for all the mockery  by netizens, the  dessert remains a staple when  it comes to Indian Diwali mithai curation.

Memes about the dessert. Pics Courtesy/Twitter

Tracing its roots to the Turkish halwa, the flaky sugar dessert has grown into a much-loved mithai today. When made well, it can be a sweet, melt-in-your-mouth confectionery that is popular among children. But with international treats and more glamorous mithai taking centrestage, the humble soan papdi has been reduced to a giveaway. As foodies gush over the assortments of gulab jamuns and kaju katlis, we turn to chefs to understand how the loyal soan papdi can be revamped this season.

Childhood memory

Funnily enough, I remember enjoying it as a child, but not so much now. Maybe it is because I chose a profession where I am always around sugar and sweets. Perhaps, that has made it too sweet for me. I am a fan of other Indian mithais but the soan papdi is not something I really go for. 

Tanvi Chandawarkar, executive sous chef

Tips:
>> Serve soan papdi with a sweet and sour nacho biscuit for balance. A touch of cheese spread might make for an interesting combination.
>> Transform it to a payasam or a kheer. Cook it a little with milk or coconut milk to make a payasam. It would also make for a healthier option this festive season.

Textured and sweet

I loved it when I was growing up. I thought it was perfect — flaky, sweet and not crunchy. But now, knowing the sugar that goes into it, I am not too fond of it. It is also the most shared sweet this season. Perhaps that is why people tend to dislike it. Another reason is its unique texture. Most Indian mithais are as moist or syrupy as the gulab jamun or the kaju katli. There is no other mithai with the same texture as the soan papdi; perhaps the candyfloss comes close. It is the texture that makes this dessert, but also breaks it. 

Chef Guntas Sethi Bhasin, recipe developer and curator

Tips:
>> Cook it down with milk to make for a thicker, flavoured milk akin to badam milk.
>> Leftover soan papdi can also be used as the filling or batter for mawa cakes.
>> The simplest way to enjoy it is to have them with a scoop of ice cream.

Soan papdi puran poli

Ingredients
>> Soan papdi 1/2 cup
>> Milk 1/4 cup
>> 2 rotis 
>> Ghee 1 tsp 

Method
Break papdi with your hands and add to a non-stick pan. Stir on medium flame till it changes to light brown. Add milk and keep stirring. Take it off the flame once it comes together. Spread the mixture on one roti, and cover it over with another. Press the edges to seal the rotis. Meanwhile, heat a tawa or a pan. Roast the puran poli on a medium flame from both the sides. Once cooked, serve hot with ghee.

South side success

I love the sweet and so does my mother. We hail from Tamil Nadu. It’s very famous across South India. They sell it on the streets in a different iteration. 
With the soan papdi, texture is important. It comes down to technique. Sometimes, at the wrong temperature, it can harden, which is disliked by most people. It should melt in your mouth. The main factor is the amount of ghee used in the dish. Nowadays, they come in many flavours like saffron, cashew among others. It also travels very well as compared to other Indian sweets. 

Chef Ilandhirai Vadivel, executive chef, Radisson Blu

Tips:
>> The dish needs to be complimented with different textures. A good besan ladoo would be my choice from an Indian dessert.
>> Soan papdi would also go well with syrupy desserts like gulab jamun or motichoor ladoo.

Temperature and technique

I like the dessert. In fact, I think it is such an advanced dessert from a pastry chef’s point of view. In French cooking, they take so much trouble to ensure the candy is cooked to a certain temperature. Here, without any thermometers, the confectioners have perfected the technique. You can cook it to the right temperature, and fold it multiple times with besan to create the flaky layers that melt in your mouth. I don’t dislike it at all, but then it could be because I am conscious of the method and 
techniques involved. The soan papdi might be inspired by the halwa in the Middle East which is usually consumed with a side of ice cream. The good thing is there are more flavour options now. 

Freny Fernandes, founder-chef, Moner Bistro & Dessert Bar

Tips:
>> It can be consumed simply with milk to add to the experience. For those who prefer a mild flavour, the milk will balance out its sugar content.
>> People always have thandais this season, and I think a soan papdi can be the perfect accompaniment, instead of cookies or biscuits.

Sweet lime sorbet

Ingredients
>> Simple syrup 280 ml
>> Four sweet limes 
>> Water 100 ml
>> Lemon juice 14 ml
>> Soan papdi 

Method
Squeeze four sweet limes and strain out the seeds and pulp. Add the juice to a bowl of simple syrup, water, and lemon juice. Now churn this sorbet mix in an ice cream maker. Scoop out the sorbet and sprinkle soan papdi on it. The tanginess of the sweet lime will balance out the sweetness. The smooth texture of the sorbet will also complement the flaky texture of the soan papdi making it a perfectly balanced dessert.

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