From tangy seafood broths to smoky skewers, and an arrack-based dessert, the island nation’s flavours come to life in this weekend pop-up in the city
Jaffna kool
After successful collaborations with popular Indian restaurants, Amrit Rajaratnam, founder of Ropewalk at the iconic Galle Fort Hotel in Sri Lanka, felt it was time to bring his restaurant’s unique culinary essence to India. “Ishaara is the perfect fit for our first move outside Sri Lanka because they have the same passion for food and creativity. Plus, Mumbai’s energy is just too good to resist,” says Rajaratnam.
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Banana leaf wrapped baked white fish and Arrack chocolate biscuit pudding
The weekend pop-up that kicks off today has a bold Sri Lanka menu. Expect everything from iconic seafood dishes to deep, flavourful curries and zesty sambols. “We wanted this menu to feel like a mini road trip across Sri Lanka,” Rajaratnam adds. Take the Jaffna kool, a seafood broth from the northern coast, built on tamarind, coconut milk, and a spice mix that’ll hit you with all the right flavours.
“It’s comfort food with a tangy twist that Indian taste buds will love,” assures Rajaratnam. The banana leaf-wrapped baked white fish marinated in chilli, garlic, and lime has an earthy aroma and juicy, melt-in-your-mouth texture. Then there’s the grilled skewers — a smoky, spice-packed crowd-pleaser inspired by the island’s multicultural influences, combining spices like cumin, paprika, and cinnamon.
Devilled chicken skewers and Gunpowder
“It’s a Sri Lankan answer to India’s tandoori obsession,” shares Rajaratnam, adding, “Sri Lankan cuisine celebrates bold flavours and vibrant ingredients shaped by unique spices and techniques. While both Sri Lanka and India love spices, their geography and climate differ. For example, Ceylon cinnamon, native to Sri Lanka, is more delicate and fragrant than India’s cassia cinnamon. Another highlight is kalu pol, a smoky, earthy blackened coconut powder, traditionally used in lamb curry.”
For dessert, don’t miss the arrack chocolate biscuit pudding — a childhood favourite in Sri Lanka with a boozy, grown-up spin. It’s the only taste of arrack you’ll get this time (customs restrictions on import), but it’s totally worth it! The arrack they use is sourced and made in Sri Lanka through a traditional process of distilling fermented coconut sap — its smooth, slightly sweet, and woody flavour adds a sophisticated twist to desserts.
Amrit Rajaratnam and Prashant Issar
Ropewalk brings the same craft cocktail energy in drinks with bold new creations. One highlight is gunpowder (R630); a fiery spice mix of chilli, Maldivian fish, and salt that adds umami and heat to the drink. “With India’s love for spiced condiments, we expect gunpowder to resonate with spice lovers,” says Rajaratnam.
Regarding the collaboration, Prashant Issar, director of Bellona Hospitality Services, says, “We aim to offer innovative, authentic experiences. Ropewalk’s rich Sri Lankan culinary heritage, rooted in Galle, was a perfect fit. This pop-up is not just about food but a deep dive into Sri Lankan culture with a multi-sensory experience, blending history, storytelling, and authentic flavours. Both teams have worked seamlessly. We’ve sourced ingredients, recreated traditional recipes, and perfected flavours, resulting in a menu honouring Ropewalk’s heritage while offering a fresh take for Indian tastes.”
ON September 27 to 29
AT Ishaara, Phoenix Palladium, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel.
CALL 8657531988
COST Rs 1,850 (Sri Lankan set menu without alcohol)
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