Two Michelin star chef Gaggan Anand was in the country recently, and made pit stops in his home city and Mumbai. The Guide caught up with him for a quick chat
Chef Gaggan Anand in the kitchen
Tell us about the experience of returning to the city of your birth - Kolkata. How much has it influenced your cooking?
Kolkata, my hometown, is a special journey back to where my culinary adventure began. Growing up on the lively streets of Kolkata, I developed the foundation of my palate, which has significantly influenced my cooking preferences. Bengali cuisine is all about balancing sweet, sour, pungent, and spicy flavours. It revolves around earthy, light tastes, dominated by river fish, vegetables, and rice. My memories of the markets, unique ingredients, and distinct aromas continue to shape the chef I am today.
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Your restaurant secured the prestigious #5 position on Asia’s 50 Best List and an impressive #17 on the World’s 50 Best List in 2023. What do such rankings mean to you?
We have become a family, and that’s the best thing that has happened.
What did foodies experience from your dinners that you served in the country?
Eat, Cook, Play at the JW Marriott, Kolkata was an immersive epicurean experience and we welcomed patrons to this theatrical cooking where everyone was taken on a multi-sensory journey of touch, sound, lights, smell, taste and the sixth element of surprise, combined together and served as an artistic production. The entire experience was treated like an orchestra and as the conductor, my role was just making sure everyone played the right note.
Your craft is a tribute to art and science. How much of a challenge does this pose to an innovator like you, to raise the bar at all times?
India should focus on what is very Indian. Like the best sarson da saag in season. Or Not just gajar ka halwa but also beetroot ka halwa. They are extremely precious in our domestic day life but we don’t value them. I think bringing luxury from that aspect of our culinary traditions is what India should focus on.
Tell us a bit about the mentoring programme for young and upcoming chefs that you will undertake during this trip in Kolkata. How important is it for seniors in the industry to nurture new talent?
I don’t think that Indian food is still yet progressive. I wish it was. But what I see chefs doing mostly what has been done before. So, I want to see more innovation in the future which reflects India in a progressive way. This is why I decided to conduct the masterclass for young and upcoming chefs. The masterclass served as a platform for the fusion of innovation and tradition, showcasing our unique approach to culinary excellence. The upcoming chefs had the chance to delve into the secrets behind our signatures, gaining insights into the techniques and thought.
Culinary wizardry by Chef Gaggan Anand
Progressive means to learn forward from what is existing. Progressive Indian cuisine is about pushing boundaries while preserving indigenous ingredients and culinary traditions. It's a delicate balance of innovation and respect for the roots, creating a culinary narrative that evolves while staying true to its origins but while aiming to craft art.
Is anything new brewing at Gaggan in Bangkok?
For now, I am focusing on the launch of the biggest thing I have ever done in my life. I will be opening a very, very luxurious restaurant in Bangkok in 2024.
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