Taste Atlas recently included K Rustom’s iconic ice-cream sandwich in a list of 150 legendary desserts, we ask city chefs to pick their contender in the line-up
Pic Courtesy/The Bohri Kitchen
Earlier this week, the Taste Atlas magazine picked several Indian mentions in its list of 150 legendary desserts in the world. The sole representative from the city was the ice cream sandwich from Churchgate landmark, K Rustom. While the city is more popular for its street fare, Mumbai hides some unique dessert creations that are distinctively original. We speak to city chefs to enlighten us on their pick to add to the list.
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Malai magic
My Pick: Malai khaja
Munaf Kapadia, founder, The Bohri Kitchen
A dessert that comes to my mind is the malai khaja. If you visit the Bohri neighbourhood near the JJ Flyover, there are multiple shops that serve this delicacy. It owes its origin to the Dawoodi Bohra community. I call it the Bohri baklava — a pastry stuffed with malai with a generous coating of butter on top and garnished with dry fruits. When you cut the pastry, the malai oozes out of it.
Iconic reputation
My Pick: Mahim halwa at Joshi Budhakaka, Mahim
Santosh Rawat, executive pastry chef, The St Regis Mumbai
Ukadiche modak — simple, and delicious — is a delicacy that I associate with the city, along with the occasional sitaphal ice cream at Haji Ali Juice Centre. The Mahim halwa, though, is one that demands the title legendary for its reputation as a dessert.
A migrant tale
My Pick: Motichoor laddoos from Punjab Sweet House, Bandra
Yashasvi Modi, founder and chef, The Burrow
The story of desserts in the city is the story of migration. My early memories of growing up in Bandra are with visits to Punjab Sweet House. I would love their assortment of North Indian delicacies. My pick would be the motichoor laddoos, which have evolved into so many forms and influenced my own creations.
Persian influence
My Pick: Falooda at Badshah, Crawford Market
Chef Gresham Fernandes
While Mumbai is not renowned for a distinct traditional dessert like other cities, one dessert meriting recognition as legendary is the falooda. Originating from Persian culinary traditions, it has been transformed into a distinctive and whimsical creation. It’s a great example of how Mumbai’s culinary scene combines various influences to create something truly special and delicious.
Of comfort and familiarity
My Pick: Black mawa jalebis on Mohammed Ali Road
Husna Jumani, pastry chef, Crust and Crumble
My usual dessert choices are sitaphal ice cream at Haji Ali Juice Centre or kulfis at Chowpatty. But as a special, I would go for the black mawa jalebis at Mohammed Ali Road. They are unique to the city. While the malpuas are an Eid specialty, the mawa jalebis are a year-round delicacy.
Taste of sweet nostalgia
My Pick: Caramel custard at Britannia & Co.
Chef Irfan Pabaney, country head, SodaBottleOpenerWala
A dessert that deserves a mention according to me, especially because you do not come across it very often and for the people who make it so fantastically, is the caramel custard at Britannia & Co. It is a classic and just superb. This would go on my list, alongside the falooda and the malpuas from Bhendi bazaar.
Childhood memories
My Pick: Phirni at Madanpura
Shahbaz Shaikh, head chef, Lil Gamby
It is a myth that phirni is made only during Eid festivities. My childhood memories are built around treats of phirni after weekend shopping with my mother or relatives. The dessert is refreshing, diverse and comes in so many delicious flavours that you cannot miss it.
Truly unique
My Pick: Aflatoon from Bhendi Bazaar
Ali Akbar Baldiwala, executive chef, Slink & Bardot
I have a deep fondness for malai puffs from Tawakkal Sweets, a treat that holds special memories from my childhood spent at my dadi’s home. But a definitive dessert for Mumbai is aflatoon from Bhendi Bazaar. The term aflatoon means something that has no match. Interestingly, this treat was born right in the heart of Mumbai, specifically in Bhendi Bazaar, cementing its status as a true Mumbai creation.
Choices galore
My Pick: Falooda at Badshah; gulab jamun at Jhama Sweets in Chembur
Vicky Ratnani, celebrity chef and author
Pic Courtesy/Jhama sweets
Mumbai has a tonne of desserts to choose from. It can change from season to season. In winters, there is nothing better than the strawberry and cream at Bachelorr’s. A must-have for everyone is the delicious falooda at Badshah near Crawford market. The other choice would be the decadent gulab jamuns from Jhama Sweets in Chembur. They are iconic and stand out.
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