Ahead of giving foodies a taste of Spain, Spanish chef Omar Allibhoy opens up about his Mumbai connect, diversity of the cuisine and the significance of tapas
Paella, which will be part of the tapas-style menu
Here’s a pro tip if you find yourself dining out in Spain. Don’t just sit at opposite ends of the table with your companion, quietly enjoying your own orders. Head to the bar, which celebrity chef Omar Allibhoy likes to call the “epicentre of a restaurant” — not just for drinks, but food as well. It’s where small plates of Spanish appetisers, or tapas, are shared over bottomless chatter. “It’s a more sociable experience with shared dishes, which enhances conversations,” reveals the chef behind the popular chain Tapas Revolution in England.
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Torrija, bread and butter pudding
This evening, the chef and cookbook writer is set to tap-as into that same sense of community with a multi-course dinner at Sette Mara, in a Lower Parel five-star. The evening is conceived by Nikhil Agarwal, CEO, All Things Nice, who will curate a selection of wines to pair with Allibhoy’s treats. We caught up with the chef ahead of the dinner.
How did your culinary journey take off? Did your Indian-Spanish heritage play a role in it?
The one thing that was not present in my life was Indian cuisine, although my father hails from Mumbai. It was limited to what my grandfather or abuelo cooked on special occasions. But yes, I discovered spiciness through him, as it was then quite unheard of in Spain to use so much chillies in food. My culinary heritage has really been Spanish. I’ve been drawn to the kitchen since I was a little boy. One of my earliest memories is of my mother cooking. After school, I would play football and then help my mother with dinner. By the age of eight, as she says, I became the head chef of the kitchen. It was always a humble spread at home — plenty of vegetables and fish. On Sundays, the whole family would gather and whip up special dishes. When I turned 14, I started studying culinary arts in college, and then went straight to work. Feeding people has been in my DNA, which is why I became not just a chef, but also a restaurateur.
Chef Omar Allibhoy
Walk us through the different dishes that you’ll be serving up in Mumbai.
Tapas or small plates, for us, is not a trend; it’s a tradition. Spanish cuisine developed into tapas to satisfy our need for socialising. The dishes on the menu (tonight) will all be small plates. Spanish cuisine is a rich and diverse one because of, firstly, our cultural heritage — which comprises influences of Iberians, Romans, Greeks, Venetians, and the fact that it was an Islamic region for many years. Then, there’s the vastly varied geography. Plenty of these influences will be reflected in the menu. We’re cooking some lamb covered in Arabian spices; and a creamier version of paella with plenty of shellfish. Then, we have torrija, a bread and butter pudding, which is called the poor man’s dessert. There’s also courgette and vegetable pisto cannelloni, wild sea bass fillet, and mushroom croquette, among several other dishes.
What’s on your to-do list in Mumbai?
My dad is accompanying me on the trip. He was born in the city and lived here till he was six, before his family migrated to Europe. He has not visited in the last 41 years, so we’re on a journey of discovery. We’ve already started strong by heading to Bademiya. We plan to free-flow and explore.
On: Today, 8 pm
At: Sette Mara, The St Regis Mumbai, Lower Parel
Call: 9820698883 (limited seats)
Cost: Rs 7,500 all-inclusive
Get tapas-ready at your home
>> Prepare a few things in advance so you can join the table; don’t just slave away in the kitchen. Keep some clams with garlic, ham, white wine, capers, and a little paprika. Serve it with padrón peppers and Spanish chorizo.
>> Add a couple of salads — a tomato, watermelon, goat cheese salad, for instance — and cold items like cheeses, cold cuts
and anchovies to the mix.
>> Add something you can keep cooked in the oven, like a paella.
>> Prepare garlic prawns with extra-virgin olive oil that can be brought sizzling to the table; or like a curry-esque chicken with Arabian influences that is heavily spiced, includes saffron and a sauce of egg yolk and fried bread.
- Chef Omar Allibhoy
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