A three-day kitchen takeover blends the best of German and city-inspired nostalgic desserts at a bakery-kitchen in Mahim
Earl Grey milk chocolate eclair (right) rhubarb buckwheat tart
In a tree-lined lane in Mahim, where the charm of old Bombay lingers, housed in an old industrial estate surrounded by residential buildings, pastry chef Heena Punwani and her team at Maska Bakery are quietly baking a storm. Last year for Christmas, we had reached out to Dina Weber, a German baker who runs a small artisanal bakery, SAPA Sourdough and Pastry, in Mysore, focusing on perfecting the art of sourdough fermented bread and classic French and German patisserie. She sent us her signature stollen; it was the best we’ve had in India, and we’ve wanted to meet her in person ever since. The good news is that Weber is collaborating with Maska Bakery to showcase her signature baked goods for three days.
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Cassis lime doughnut
Following Maska’s successful takeover at SAPA Bakery in July this year, this inter-city collaboration ensures the flavours come full circle. Weber says, “We love sharing our kitchen and partnering with other kitchens. It’s a great way to build community, make lasting friendships, and learn more about different cities and how other kitchens operate. Most of all, it is an incredible feeling to share our food with people across India whenever possible.”
Before she opened Maska Bakery in December last year, Punwani had travelled around India, meeting pastry chefs she admired. That’s how she met Weber in Mysore. Their baking philosophies aligned perfectly. “We both love indulgent, authentic and high-quality products while supporting a healthy work culture,” reveals Weber. Punwani adds, “The similarities in our philosophies immediately struck me — contemporary desserts made with the best techniques and ingredients, which hit the spot, made in a happy and positive kitchen. When Maska Bakery opened, Dina visited us, and we started talking about jamming together over an idea. Thus, Maska Bakery X SAPA Sourdough and Pastry Back2Back Kitchen Takeover emerged. Dina’s desserts are a nod to her German heritage, and we at Maska create desserts that salute old Bombay — so, it will be fun to see the two come together.”
Heena Punwani and Dina Weber
Weber shares how those elements are woven into the menu in small and big ways. “Sometimes, it’s a single ingredient I love from home, like asparagus, which we mix with new flavours like miso in a Danish. Or rhubarb paired with buckwheat and chocolate in a tart. Other times, I like to recreate an entire cake, like the peach oma torte. ‘Oma’ means grandmother [in German], and it is based on the old-school cakes that my grandmother would bake. At family celebrations — whether baptisms, funerals, or weddings — it’s tradition for neighbours, aunts, and grandmothers to contribute a torte [a cream-layered cake] for festive gatherings.
The pretzel sausage roll, for instance, combines two German favourites into one snack. We love using less commonly used flavours, and showcasing how beautiful they can be. Rhubarb is a hearty vegetable, and it’s deliciously tangy. We also have a Sunday surprise dessert with a rare seed that is used to make praline. Also, ingredients like Earl Grey tea are good.” Her favourites on the menu are hazelnut rhubarb and buckwheat tart.
Weber is aware of her diverse culinary background and ensures that her bakery continues to push boundaries while staying true to its roots. “The thread that passes through all that we create is to not overcomplicate things: if the ingredients and techniques are solid, the product will be great. When you use that as a base, you can add Indian ingredients, French techniques, or German flavours, and that ethos will hold it together. It keeps us creative and playful too. I am not into food trends or social media trends that are overdone and short-lived. Consistency and quality have made us stand out for four years in today’s world, and we will continue this approach. We are excited that our team is getting increasingly solid and skilled to lead. Building a team like this takes time, but we are gradually readying to expand; even though we haven’t finalised the exact concept in the baking space yet.”
From the SAPA menu, Punwani is most excited about the sausage pretzel roll with its German bratwurst filling and the cassis lime doughnuts. “They make some of the best doughnuts I’ve tasted. From the Maska menu, the items that hold a special place in my heart are the Kejriwal babka and the revenge black forest cake because of their wink to old Bombay menu items.”
ON October 4 to 6, 11 am to 8 pm
AT Maska Bakery, ground floor, Mogul Lane, inside Nav Vivek Industrial Premises, New Dinkar Co Operative Housing Society, Mahim West.
CALL 8591162752 (to order)
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