A kerbside store is whipping up snacks from the state in a corner of Bandra. The buff and parotta are missing but the flavours are spot on
(From left) KFC and CFC meal; Kerala tamarind fried fish meal
Hissing and clanging, thattukadas or food carts that park themselves at city junctions across Kerala, define the state’s street food culture. Spicy beef fry, flaky parottas, soft dosas, golden pazhamporis and endless varieties of fried fare are dished out at record speed, and devoured in the blink of an eye. In a junction far, far away from God’s Own Country, the bustle of the thattukada assumes a poshed-up avatar. We’re at Bandra’s SV Road, where Nair On Fryer, a newly opened kerbside shop, promises to bring street-style Keralite treats to the neighbourhood.
ADVERTISEMENT
If the Nairs sound familiar, it’s because they’re the same two-and-a-honorary-half Mallus — Vinod G Nair, Sara Jacob Nair and Toral Sanghavi — who’ve lovingly been feeding Mumbaikars home-style Keralite delicacies under the brand Nair On Fire.
Kerala chilli chicken toastie
The quirky green-and-white façade welcomes us on a Wednesday afternoon; we’re offered a pair of plastic stools to sit out. This writer and her Mallu friend’s dreams of gorging on a quintessential plate of buff-parotta, however, are shattered when we look at the menu that has no trace of the red meat. Our friend also points out that other common delicacies like pazhampori, kadan motta and appams are missing. We later learn from Vinod — whose buff olarthu we’ve often relished — that serving up the contentious meat in the open can draw the ire of trouble-makers; they’re too new to brave that. But once they make their mark, buff and parotta will be in the offing, he assures us. The menu, too, will keep changing to add new treats every few months.
The eatery boasts of different kinds of fried chicken — Kerala-style, crispy, chilli and pepper — along with fish, prawn and aloo. Also on offer are toasties, dal vada, medu vada and chicken dosas — all at pocket-friendly prices. The fare, Vinod tells us, is flavoured by the influences of North India, Dubai and the Middle East, thanks to the exchange of migrants.
Kulukki
Since we’re keen to try two kinds of chicken fry, the attendant at the store prepares a mash-up mini meal of Kerala Fried Chicken (KFC) and Crispy Fried Chicken (CFC), both imports from the streets of Dubai and Oman. One can also opt for just the chicken that comes in different portion sizes. The chicken mini meal (Rs 245) comprises four chunky pieces, two chapatis, dal, green chutney and salad. The KFC, enrobed in a heady blend of spices, curry leaves and chillies in coconut oil, is hot, tantalising and passes our local Mallu’s taste test. The CFC, although super crispy and tender inside, pales beside its flavour-bomb cousin. The homely dal fry in the thali intrigues us, considering it’s not a typical Keralite condiment. We deliberate if it’s served for the Bambaiyya palate that cozies towards rassa with a fish fry and chapati. The chef confirms our suspicion later.
Like its chicken counterpart, the Kerala tamarind fried fish (Rs 295) mini meal, too, is filling and wholesome. We wish the fish wasn’t basa, but the sweet and tart tamarind sauce makes up for it. We wash these down with a glass of the refreshing, piquant raw mango kulukki sherbet (Rs 60), that’s perfect for this muggy weather.
The Kerala chilli chicken toastie (Rs 140) that we pack for later makes for a crisp evening snack. The filling is a delightful Keralite take on Chinese chilli chicken that you’re unlikely to find across kiosk menus. Order it for your chai-coffee breaks or for midnight cravings. Like a true-blue thattukada, this inspired joint, too, is hissing and clanging till the wee hours. “Or drive in, park your car and we’ll serve you inside,” Vinod urges us. There’s an idea.
Nair On Fryer
At: Ground floor, Grace Residence (same building as Hotel Grace Galaxy), Junction of 30th Road, SV Road, Bandra West.
Time: 12.30 pm to 3 pm and 6.30 pm to 11.30 pm (Tuesday to Thursday); 12.30 pm to 3 pm and 6.30 pm to 1.30 am (Friday to Sunday)
Call: 9082069393
Log on to: @naironfryer on Instagram or thrivenow.in
**** Exceptional, ***Excellent, **very Good, *Good, Average.
Nair On Fryer didn’t know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals
Subscribe today by clicking the link and stay updated with the latest news!" Click here!
