Fishing for compliments with the OG

Chefs across city restaurants are celebrating the Bombay duck, with inspired, innovative versions of the humble native fish that takes centrestage every monsoon

In pescatarian love language, the sign of a true blue Mumbaikar is one’s appetite for a good bombil rava fry. Recently, we noticed chefs giving the native fish innovative twists. Bombay Duck (Rs 1,250) on the à la carte menu at Ekaa in Fort is inspired by a Japanese eel dish that is served on rice called hitsumabushi. When chef Niyati Rao couldn’t get a consistent supply of eel at Sassoon Dock, she switched to Bombay Duck which has a similar texture. “It is served with gor keri made from mangoes, jaggery and soy sauce.

Fernandes includes bombil in the XO sauce used in his egg fried rice 

The dish also has spicy pickled cucumbers made using their homemade vinegar; made by boiling it with coriander seeds and Byadagi chillies. When it cools down, we actually leave the thin slices of the cucumbers in it to marinate for a week,” says Rao, explaining that bombil doesn’t have the nuances of other fish but has an extremely versatile texture. Rao, who grew up in Madh Island, says, “Out of seven days, six days we consumed fish. Bombay duck was always the hot favourite on the table. I never understood why it was a poor man’s fish. We even ate mudskippers called nivati. It’s a misconception that bigger the fish, the tastier it is. In fact, the more exercised the fish, the more delicious,” she explains.

Chef Gresham Fernandes of Bandra Born also has fond memories of consuming the fish in his childhood. “My favourite is an old-school bombil fry with rava. East Indians make a dry bombil thecha. My mom also makes a spicy masala version with recheado. It’s made by marinating the soaked dried Bombil in the masala and then slowly frying it. We make this with white onions you get before the rains,” says Fernandes, mentioning another childhood favourite. “We would toast dried bombil in the ashes of a koyla.

The Bombay duck is a key part of Rao’s à la carte menu

Once crisp, it was paired with rice,” says Fernandes, who incorporates bombil to make his XO sauce condiment served with the fried rice (Rs 875). “Our XO sauce is made with dried bombil, ham, prawn and Doctor’s brandy. “It is a process of long braising — we cook bacon and ham and render the fat, adding in chilli, soy and sugar. To this we add Doctor’s brandy, and cook it slowly. In goes the prawn and dry bombil. It is cooked till all the fat is released. You get the crusty taste of socarrat, similar to the burnt rice at the bottom of a paella,” Fernandes explains.

At the recently concluded Jazz and Sassoon Festival, Smoke House Deli Colaba featured a quinoa crusted crab meat stuffed Bombay duck (Rs 875), which will be back on the menu after the monsoon. “The festival celebrated the culinary and music heritage of Colaba. The Bombay duck was given a crispy quinoa crust, providing a familiar, yet interestingly new contrast in textures. The crab meat stuffing was infused with herbs and spices to bring a nuanced depth that elevates the humble and delicate bombil. We served it with a side of scalloped potato squares, giving an inspired take on a classic fish ‘n’ chips with an avocado chilli chutney,” says Rollin Lasrado, its executive chef.

Agri-Koli indulgence

Avinash Nalawade (right) with a Koli chef at the festival

Drop by the Agri Koli Mejwani food festival to celebrate the fare prepared by Agri and Koli communities from the coastal regions of Maharashtra. Avinash Nalawade, chef de cuisine says, “We have invited local Agri and Koli women food to bring generational knowledge and authentic techniques to the preparation of these traditional dishes.” Agri cuisine is rooted in the agricultural practices and ingredients include rice, millets, and lentils, eggplant, pumpkin, and leafy greens. Dishes include bharli vangi, bhakri served with gram-flour based pitla. Koli cuisine, on the other hand, is heavily influenced by the fishing community’s heritage. Delicacies include Koli-style chicken sukka, mandeli fry, makul fry and kombdi vade.
From June 28 to June 30
Time 7.30 pm onwards 
AT Courtyard Pavilion, Courtyard By Marriott Navi Mumbai, Nerul. 
Call 2268769999

Bombil on our mind

Masala bombil fry
Sous chef Tibbar Singh marinates the fish with egg white, lemon juice and degi mirch powder. Then, he crumbs it with rawa (semolina) and deep-fries it to golden perfection.  “Paired with a side of spicy chili mayo, our boneless Bombay duck fry offers a delightful crunch,” says Singh.
At Badmaash, Andheri West. 
Cost Rs 555

Parab prepares a bombil thecha roll. Pics/Satej Shinde

Bombil thecha roll
Prasad Parab, culinary partner and chef makes boneless bombil fish fillets rolled over a traditional chilli garlic thecha filling. It is then crumbed and cooked. “The secret lies in the freshness of the fish that bends easily to form a roll. The crumb part has to be handled delicately. We serve the rolls with an aam murabba aioli,” he reveals.
At The Mackerel Story, Shop No 1, New Development Road, opposite Takshila Society, Gate No 2, Mahakali, Andheri East. 
Cost Rs 359

Bombil tempura
Bombil has its own unique flavours, which come from its natural juices. “We avoid pressing the fish, unlike many others, to retain its moisture. And marinate it with simple Japanese sake and mirin,” says Aashish Negi, chef de partie. The bombil tempura has a crunchy karage-style tempura made with boneless fillets, served with ponzu sauce and sriracha mayonnaise.
At Coast & Bloom, second floor, Kohinoor Square, Shivaji Park, Dadar. 
Cost Rs 495 (plus taxes)

BFF - Bombay Fried Fish
This version is marinated with lemon juice, Kashmiri red chili powder, and ginger-garlic paste. The use of Japanese-style Panko breadcrumbs gives it a light and crispy texture, while keeping it moist and tender inside. Abhijith Sunilkumar, head chef gives us with a few tips: “Always use fresh fish as it has a shorter shelf life and clean well and rinse thoroughly to remove sliminess. A temperature of 175°C is ideal for deep frying. Too hot, and the outside will burn before the inside is cooked; too cold, and the fish will absorb more oil, becoming greasy,” he advises.
At Cirqa, Lower Parel.
Cost Rs 499

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