Dig into Colaba-based home chef's haleem and treat yourself to a mid-week feast

Lockdown-inspired home chef Vivek Nayyar dishes out haleem once a week, and it’s the real deal

For some dishes, one would trust only food establishments where two to three generations have been running the show, to do justice. That’s why when a friend recommended trying haleem from an ex-advertising executive-turned -lockdown chef — we rolled our eyes and muttered “whatever” under our breath. It arrived on a Wednesday in a plastic container with buttered pav and lemon wedges in a foil container. It was packed neatly in a paper bag that survived the trail from Colaba to our home in Kurla.

The dish gets enhanced by condiments including fried onions, chillies, ginger julienne, coriander, and haleem oil

The chef, Vivek Nayyar of The Main Course, specialises in meat delicacies and makes haleem just once a week. We aren’t surprised because haleem isn’t easy to make. The planning and preparation is tedious, and it is easy to go wrong. After drizzling a generous amount of lemon on the birista (fried onion) and coriander-topped dish, we spooned out a little on our plates and were pleasantly surprised. It was perfect — even after the long commute. The taste was enhanced by the drizzle of haleem oil (which collects on top of the meat when it cooks), which is what sealed the deal.

A labour of love, haleem cannot be made in a pressure cooker. It must be slow-cooked for the flavours to come out

Only if you can tell your haleem from your harees and khichda, will you be able to appreciate the subtle nuances of this dish. Nayyar reveals, “Harees is an old ancestor of haleem. While both are made with mutton and wheat, the main difference lies in the ratio in which the main ingredients are used — the mutton to wheat ratio in harees is 1:1 while haleem is made with 3:1. Khichda, on the other hand, is considered by many to be a poor cousin of haleem. While both are basically made from the same ingredients, haleem is a tad spicier while khichda is delicately seasoned. Another difference between haleem and khichda is the lentils used in the dishes — they vary slightly and the ratio in which they are used are different. Also, in the haleem, the mutton is slow-cooked till it falls off the bone and is shredded. Khichda has chunks of meat that are cooked till they are soft and literally fall apart.”

Vivek Nayyar

For haleem, the lentils need to be soaked for a minimum of five hours and then cooked in water on a slow flame for a few hours. The lentils cannot be cooked in a pressure cooker as it can easily get burnt. “That’s why haleem is considered as a labour of love and dedication,” explains Nayyar. The secret to a good haleem, he tells us, lies in the ratio of the lentils and the mutton. He adds, “The real secret to a great haleem is patience and time. It cannot be cooked fast and there are no shortcuts.” And why is Wednesday the chosen day? We ask. “Because there is nothing like a mid-week feast,” he signs off.

Call: 9321739179
Cost: Rs 700

Other places to try haleem

>> Noor-e-Mohammadi, Bhendi Bazaar
Call: 23456008
Log on to: Swiggy

>> The Bohri Kitchen
Log on to: thebohrikitchen.com/

>> Kakori House, all outlets
Log on to: Swiggy and Zomato

>> The Bombay Canteen, Lower Parel
Call: 8880802424 
Log on to: thrivenow.in/thebombaycanteen

>> Good Luck, Bandra
Call: 26422250
Log on to: Swiggy and Zomato

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