Taming the feast

With Eid around the corner, we journey through festive food from the Levant prepared by a Lebanese chef, who has transformed during his time here to embrace a little Bambaiya-ness

There's a hush inside the dimly lit Rue du Liban, like a fine-dine in a romantic movie. There's muffled laughter, the controlled clanking of cutlery, delightful gasps and suppressed coughs. A richly inviting aroma pierces through this all. It's coming from the food, an exquisite spread from the Levant, made especially for Eid and with such care... so delicately that it can disappear into the flesh of your palms.

The mushroom hummus (Rs 550), Lebanese chef Chadi Bayram — who has put-together the on-going Levantine food festival at the restaurant — explains, is made with a lot of care. On the surface, a mere spread made with chickpeas, it actually employs careful technicality. The test of a good hummus, Chadi adds, lies in the palm of your hands. "It should be smooth. So smooth, that when you rub it on your skin, it should disappear. Like cream," he asserts, and it does.

Halabi Kebab

Chadi moved to Mumbai 11 months ago. With a little help from Bollywood songs (Kuch Kuch Hota Hai is a favourite) and a knowing effort to familiarise himself with Mumbai (he describes the chaos in Dadar railway station like a scene from the Mecca pilgrimage), this chef is getting along. He loves boarding local trains, like most dreamy-eyed migrants who move to this freakishly beautiful city.

Fairuz Chicken manakeesh

Back at home, Eid al Adha (or Eid uz Zoha, as we know it in Asian countries) is a huge affair. It's a mix of grandeur, celebration and sacrifice. "Often people observe a fast for a day or two. And some, who go for Hajj [a holy pilgrimage for Muslims], are returning during this time. So, we decorate our houses with signs welcoming these people back, and of course, there's a lot of food," the chef shares.

Much like in Muslim homes in India, in Levantine countries like Palestine, Syria and Israel, too, the food during this time typically features a lot of protein. Whereas for the morning meal, sehri or suhoor, simple foods like yoghurt and boiled rice are consumed. "It is important to stay away from spicy, salty or heavy fare for suhoor, because these things are likely to dehydrate you and you can't drink water. For iftar, we begin slow, with a salad or dates, as the stomach has had no activity for a while. And an hour or so later, after offering our prayers, we consume protein-heavy dishes, like kebabs," he shares.

Fish Sayadieh

In Chadi's country, and in the neighbouring ones, predominantly lamb or goat is sacrificed, considering it is symbolic with the story behind this festival, though some people opt for cows and buffaloes, too. "We ensure that the animal is taken care of, well-fed and given clean water for days before we slaughter it. I don't like that bit, but I like eating it," he tells us, adding that since people are tired through the course of the festivities, meat-heavy dishes, and those high on sugar, help fuel them through the day. However, they're all put together with simple spices, like a little parsley, a few cloves, a stick of cinnamon, and so on.

The food naturally conveys this logic, and Chadi is attempting to showcase that with subtle and intelligent tweaks to please the Indian palate. The taouk akhdar (Rs 750) for example, comes blanketed in a flavourful marinade of spinach and spices, served on a flat pita and a side of a harissa-like sauce called harris, a garlick-y, strong, spicy condiment that most diners are likely to enjoy. The halabi kababs (Rs 800) on the other hand, are like little flavour bombs studded with whole pistachios and along with it, Chadi serves a side of hummus. As a flavourful meat, unlike chicken, this needs no aide.

Mushroom Hummus

The fairuz chicken manakeesh (Rs 700), he accepts, is not so much a Levantine dish, as it is a hybrid of Indian preferences (kuch khatta, kuch meetha, thoda spicy) and ingredients from his country. So, it features a flatbread that makes use of very little yeast, herb marinated chicken and harra sauce. A Lebanese-Indian pizza, if you will.

The fish sayadieh (Rs 1,200) however, retains the simplicity of Levantine food, so it's a little bland but aromatic all the same. Chadi rushes into the kitchen and sprints back with some tahini, mixes it rigourously into the rice, suggesting it will help. And it does, to some extent.

Chadi Bayram

It is in fact, this learning and unlearning that Chadi has experienced as a Lebanese finding his feet in the city that comes through most prominently in the fare. The smoky, fiery, illusively simple flavours of this food linger on your mind for hours later, finding their own meaning in your head, a little bit like the broken lyrics of Chadi's Hindi songs.

Ace the hummus

To obtain the right texture for hummus, which should ideally be creamy and smooth, boil the chickpeas. Once done, let it simmer and cover it. Then, fold the tahini in. You can top the hummus with anything, ranging from cherry tomatoes to roasted mushrooms. For the version available here, chef Chadi uses parsley-flavoured olive oil, which gives it a herb-ey finish.

Don't forget to try...

• Halloumi, which is made with goat's milk and fresh cherry tomatoes.
• Esh el bol bol, a Syrian delicacy made with crispy vermicelli, topped with nuts and sugar syrup.
• Lamb shawarma hummus is topped with sautéed lamb, tahini, cherry tomatoes and salad.

At Rue Du Liban, Sassoon Building, Kala Ghoda, Fort.
Till August 11, 12 pm to 3 pm; 7 pm to 12 am
Call 22864444

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