Sign of the times

First in mid-day: F&B whiz Riyaaz Amlani collaborates with co-founders of Powai eatery manned by hearing and speech impaired paired staff to launch Indian restaurant that raises a hand in support of disability

Who knows if God has a design for us. But sometimes it feels like there is no point planning, considering that half the stuff that has happened to you so far was never even on your to-do-list. It's a similar story in the case of Prashant Issar and Anuj Shah, former owners of Powai diner Mirchi and Mime and later, Madeira and Mime. Now, the duo are co-owners of Ishaara, a new restaurant in Lower Parel, launched jointly with Riyaaz Amlani.

In 2009, Issar was working as the general manager at Amaya, a Michelin-starred Indian restaurant in London. Community tables — that caught on in Mumbai later — had become commonplace in the country's diners then. But, as we know, most people prefer private tables over dining with strangers.

Calicut crab bisque

So, one day, when Amitabh and Jaya Bachchan, Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla sauntered into the packed restaurant, Issar had no choice but to seat them at the common table. Guests who came in after that had a different story to tell.

"Everyone wanted to sit at the community table! In fact, Bachchan wrote about the experience on his blog, too," Issar recalls. His meeting with Shah, too, was as much a twist of fate. Both MBA graduates studied at the famed Henley Business School in UK, but at different times. "We met on the alumni website," Shah shares.

Chicken sufiyani biryani

In 2014, the two met on a rainy day at Starbucks in Juhu. The seeds for Mirchi and Mime — that created quite a stir when it opened because of its hearing-and speech-impaired staff and imaginative take on classic Indian cuisine — were planted then. But what really bound them were the strong ethics of the school. "Two of the core values of the school, which we have imbibed in our company, is that it is important for businesses to generate wealth for society and not just for the individual; and that integrity and commitment are more important than capability and skill," Issar explains.

These principles transcend into the restaurant's ethos. Employing the differently-abled, as such, is not just an act of humanity, but is also supported by sound business logic. "It did align with our values, but when we met these boys and girls, we felt that they had the right attitude for hospitality — they smile more often, they are warmer and focused and this job is aspirational for them," Issar explains, adding that while the restaurant industry is grappling with high rates of attrition, their staffers continue to work for much longer periods.

Indian gooseberry cooler

But more than the innovative application of hard business tenets it is the earnestness of the restaurant that stands out most strikingly. As does their attention to detail, which is apparent in the delicate interiors created with soothing yellows, oranges and greens. The sprawling space is elevated in the presence of actual plants, instead of plastic ones, and the use of rusted metal fittings and teak tones lends a sophisticated earthiness to the restaurant.

In the food, too — which Amlani describes succinctly as "rich, without being overpowering" — there's is a discernible sincerity. The flavours are full-hearted, like in the Calicut crab bisque (Rs 220), a smooth and creamy soup that's brimming with a palatable sweetness from the fennel. Or the coconut-y Malabar jumbo prawns (Rs 780), which has perfectly cooked crustaceans and a lemony bitterness imparted by the tempered curry leaves.

Prashant Issar, Anuj Shah and Riyaaz Amlani

The menu offers chicer alternatives to homegrown dishes like the dal haveli — an export from North India's chain of highway Haveli dhabas discovered during Issar's travels — which is packed with homely flavours. Much like the bhutte ki khees (Rs 220), a delicacy from the otherwise ignored cuisine of Madhya Pradesh. There are soft and garlicky naans; lesser-known treasures like a piquant mango pineapple curry (Rs 340); and extravagant offerings like pearly sufiyani biryani (Rs 380), an Awadhi treat made with almond milk, chicken and broken nuts.

There are refreshing drinks, too, such as the Indian gooseberry cooler (Rs 200) made with amla, apple and cranberry juice, which has a resting citrus-y taste. And decadent desserts like the gajar halwa crumble (Rs 280), that makes you want to tell your diet, "To hell with you."

A waiter takes down the order while another staffer helps the customer with the sign language. Pics/AsHish Raje

So, it makes sense that the newness of the fare managed to draw Amlani in. But perhaps it was a shared vision that contributed more predominantly to this union. "When you look around and find yourself in the position to have an impact on the industry, you automatically become more responsible," Amlani elaborates.

That's just when a staffer comes up to the table gesturing a smile and a shake of the hand — meant to symbolise "so-so" — inquiring the verdict on the food. The web of your hand stretches instinctively opting for the smile. But the heart yearns to throw your arms wide open. If only it could convey pure joy in sign language.

At Ishaara, Palladium Mall, Lower Parel.
Opens Today, 12 pm to 12 am
Call 8657531989

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