A chef returns from the far-off region with herbs, spices and fermentation techniques to include in her five-course pop-up, laced with travel stories and rice beer
A range of dried fish on display at Mokokchung market in Nagaland. Pics/Gayatri Desai
ADVERTISEMENT
It was a bunch of activists who helped chef Gayatri Desai discover lip-smacking versions of rice liquor on the outskirts of Imphal, when she visited the Manipuri capital on a 20-day solo trip to the northeast last month. "I met them by chance. They drove me to a location where locals were brewing wine and beer in hiding using black rice tablets. I brought back a few tablets with me," Desai recollects.
The tablets are being brewed into Rice Beer that will be served with a five-course meal at a pop-up, Culinary Ramblings in Northeast India, presented by Doolally. Open to 20 guests, it is scheduled for next month.
A local sells black rice in Ima market in Imphal, Manipur. It's said to be Asia's largest all-women run market
Beyond bhut jolokia
The 28-year-old Desai, who hails from Pune and has a degree in Culinary Arts from Northwest Culinary Academy Of Vancouver, recently joined Doolally as innovation chef. The role requires her to revamp the food menu on a regular basis. "For this, I will be travelling extensively, and every time I return from a trip, I will share the discoveries through the menu and intimate sit-down meals," says Desai.
It was the need to "go beyond bhut jolokia" that led Desai on the northeastern trail. Besides Imphal, she ventured into towns like Urkhul and Khurkhul in Manipur. She also travelled to Mokokchung district, Dimapur, Kohima and villages such as Ungma in Nagaland.
Chef Gayatri Desai. Pic/Satej Shinde
Travel like a local
Ditching hotel stays, Desai camped with the locals to discover a treasure trove of ingredients and cooking techniques. "I learnt how to cure, smoke and ferment various ingredients. While fermentation is common with alcohol, I discovered how food fermentation works to add smokiness, depth and colour [black] to curries and gravies."
She will use the techniques on locally sourced vegetables, chicken, fish, pork and duck to prepare small plates, which will include vegetarian options too. The meal features ingredients like bamboo shoot and mushrooms that Desai has returned with. Guests will also be regaled with her travel stories. For instance, how she learnt to cook black rice in a Manipuri village. "It was literally from the field to the villager's wood-fire kitchen and then, to my plate," says Desai. In the pipeline is a pop-up on Burmese cuisine. Until then, bon appetit, or as they say in Nagamese, Jangratema Chiyungago.
Subscribe today by clicking the link and stay updated with the latest news!" Click here!
