A culinary tour of Khandesh offers a glimpse into the cooking and eating of northern Maharashtra, and its fast-emerging wine culture
An exotic food and wine pairing session and a tractor ride in a farm, don’t quite go together, right? However, to enjoy the best of both worlds, take a three-hour ride from Mumbai to Khandesh (Nashik district), a region that covers the northern parts of Maharashtra and comprises the districts of Jalgaon, Dhule, Nandurbar as well as parts of Nashik. Wandering Foodie, a Nashik-based travel company, organises weekend cooking getaways to this diverse region, where visitors can gorge on local food, sip on fine wine, and explore unlikely yet delightful pairings.
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A kid enjoys a tractor ride at the region’s oldest vineyard
"We did our first tour in this region in December 2014. At that time, we stuck to a single resort and organised our activities there. We invited a professional sommelier from the Napa Valley to pair the local wines with typical Khandeshi food. We offer the same pairings now, and have tied up with various private farm owners and vineyards who allow us to use their premises," informs Rahul Patil, co-founder, Wandering Foodie.
Puran Poli ani Katachi Amti
In wine country
The Maharastra Tourism Development Corporation (MTDC) has approved this itinerary. "Typically, you could start on a Saturday morning and take the scenic Mumbai-Nashik Expressway. Our first stop is a private farm. We get there in time for lunch and guests are treated to a variety of authentic, home-cooked local dishes that are paired with wines. We talk to them through lunch, explaining the food, wine and the pairings. This is where most of our guests slip into food coma," laughs Patil. Post lunch, the group proceeds for a tour of the winery followed by a wine tasting session. The idea of the tour is to showcase the painstaking efforts involved in making wine. "We choose vineyards like Grover-Zampa and Vallonné as they are not as crowded and offer a more exclusive tour," he shares.
A guest tries her hand at making Mande, a localised version of Puran Poli
On the second day, visitors are guided to a farm on the outskirts of Nashik, which happens to be the first vineyard in the region, opened back in 1925. "This is different from the place you visit on the first day. The farmer is friendly and shows you around his farm, explaining the nitty-gritty of farming. One can also get a hang of how to ride a tractor and try their hand at it. Post this, we set up cooking stations on the farm and split the group into pairs of two per station. You can choose a dish of your liking, and we will arrange for you to cook it on the farm under the guidance of the locals. My mother, Ashalata Patil supervises the food and cooking lessons in this tour,’ says Patil.
Mutton in Kala Masala
Food for thought
Khandeshi cuisine is based on local produce and the farmers' lifestyle. Local ingredients like groundnuts, chillies, eggplant, onion, garlic, millet and jowar constitute staples in a typical Khandeshi household. "Amongst the non-vegetarian dishes, the Mutton Kala Masala cooked in earthenware is a specialty of the Malegaon region. It goes well with Bajra bhakri and red wine. The Puran Poli made here is called Mande.
Varan Batti and Vangyachi Bhaji
It is as big as a roomali roti, spread out and then stuffed with chana dal and jaggery. It is cooked on woodfire in a vessel called Khapar, which has holes. The Varan Bhatti is similar to the Dal Baati made in Rajasthan. Khandeshi cuisine has influences from Gujarat and Rajasthan, owing to the proximity to the neighbouring states, and the ancestry of migrants. The popularity of chhaas and kadhi are also Gujarati influences on the local food. Khandeshi Baingan Bharta made with no spices apart from green chilli, turmeric and ginger, is a must on all Kandeshi wedding menus," says Patil senior, who is a leading authority on Khandeshi cuisine.
A meal with wine tasting
Her son is quick to add, "Eggplant is big in Khandesh. It is easily available. Also, when there is a wedding in this region, the entire village is invited. Since people can’t afford elaborate cooking for such large numbers, the dish is a staple. We serve these dishes at lunch during the tour."
Ashalata Patil
Patil senior explains that Khandesh is known for two types of masalas — the Kala Masala and the Khandeshi Garam Masala. The first includes coconut and dry chillies, roasted and pounded. The onion is roasted in the spice mix till it’s slightly black. The garam masala doesn’t include coconut and has all the other spices but the proportions differ. "Farming has always been the main occupation here. In the earlier days too, the people were not affluent. The cuisine, therefore, is a typical farmer meal, and supports a lifestyle that involves physical activity. Later, when trade grew, Jalgaon emerged as the biggest commodity market, and spices were introduced in the cuisine of the region," Patil junior explains. The Nandurbar region is famous for its red chillies that are not too hot but tangy, and have a distinct flavour. A simple chutney called Thecha is made from it and is eaten with Kalna Puri made of jowar and Urad (whole Bengal gram.) Kalna Bhakris are also prepared from it. "Visitors can sample these dishes and also try their hand at making them. At the end of the cooking session, we put together a meal which is a mix of what is cooked by guests and us." he sums up.
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