As travellers plan journeys around culinary explorations, food as a cultural lens paves the path to cultural immersion. From indigenous sustainability to tales of migration, these artfully curated tours take you on a journey well beyond spices
Shivrak Sunday, a culinary experience organised by Soul Travelling in Goa (Photo Courtesy: Soul Travelling)
If you travel to eat, you are in the company of many enthusiasts. Culinary tourism has been growing in popularity, with travellers planning their leisure holidays around culinary explorations. As per Hilton Trends Report 2024, 50 per cent of travellers across generations prioritise food-related activities and 86 per cent express interest in eating local cuisine. Driven by the region's rich, and diverse cuisines, Asia has become a hub for travellers seeking gastronomical delight.
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This global shift among travellers showing a significant preference for local and regional food has also been observed in India. According to Booking.com Travel Trends Data, 86 per cent of Indian travellers actively seek out indigenous cuisines, showcasing a desire to delve into local delicacies. Additionally, 78 per cent are eager to understand the history and heritage behind famed dishes. Owing to the unprecedented interest in food as a historical archive, and cultural lens, there is a diverse range of culinary experiences, from city food trails to multi-day journeys, that delve into the roots, overlooked aspects, and ever-evolving nature of regional cuisines and food cultures today. In our search for storytellers, investigators, and revivalists, we came across culinary tours that will further your understanding of these cities, and the people who inhabit them.
Mumbai: Disentangling a city’s culinary tapestry
“If you decode food, you decode the history of a country,” poses Harshvardhan Tanwar, founder of No Footprints. A singular philosophy echoes through their 40-plus tours: to bring forth community-based stories and cultural practices that are being lost due to the constant urbanisation of cities. “There has always been a desire to peel away the layers of cosmopolitan Mumbai, a city shaped by centuries of migration. We wanted to delve deeper into the stories behind the dishes, exploring the culinary traditions of different communities - from the Bohris and Kolis to the Iranis and South Indians,” reveals Tanwar. The ‘Kabab and Curry Walk’, featuring delicious non-vegetarian street food, traces the rich history of the Dawoodi Bohra community dating back to the 13th century.
Mumbai, a major international port, attracted people from all over the world who left their stamp. “Goan cooks who worked on ships, often settled in Mumbai and introduced new cooking techniques, flavours, and dishes influencing the city’s seafood offerings. The Irani cafes, a legacy of the Parsi community, continue to be an intrinsic part of Mumbai’s culinary heritage today,” he says. The ‘Parsi Home Cooking’ workshop offers a rare opportunity to learn from a Parsi culinary expert and experience a fusion of Persian and Indian flavours through traditional dishes such as Lagan Nu Bhonu.
With each wave of migrants, Mumbai’s culinary landscape continues to evolve. If one looks closer, one can see that different localities in Mumbai tell stories of various communities. “Matunga is a haven for South Indian food, while Kalbadevi offers a glimpse into Gujarati culinary traditions. GTB Nagar, a hub for Punjabi restaurants, has witnessed the evolution of Dhaba food in Mumbai. These neighbourhoods have preserved their cultural identity through their food, where endless conversations are to be had,” concludes Tanwar.
Also Read: A vegetarian food trail through Mahavir Nagar khau gully in Kandivli
Delhi: Tales of displacement and omission
“Every time there is an international list of the best food in the world, and Indian food is not on it. It breaks my heart. The sheer diversity of ingredients and depth of flavours makes it the best in the world,” confesses Eesha Singh, co-founder of No Footprints. Frustrated by the limited global perception of Indian food, Singh designed enticing culinary excursions across New Delhi and Jaipur. Offering us a peak into her curatorial process, she says, “We are in constant search for the best stories that can showcase a destination to bring forth what is neglected.”
A story is often shaped by not only what is revealed, but also what is omitted from it. Singh curated the ‘Delhi Refugee Food Tour’ which explores the city's history through the lens of its refugee communities. “A source of comfort, food is a way of rebuilding life for refugees. Home to Afghans, Tibetans, Burmese, and many more communities, Delhi is where the refugee conversation is central. Even though Delhiites are mocked for being ‘momo zombies’, this most omnipresent snack is not featured in tourist itineraries. There is no dialogue around how and why did this food come from,” wonders Singh.
A historical melting pot, refugees have been gravitating towards Delhi for generations. From Afghan dishes in Lajpat Nagar to Bengali fare at CR Park, travellers can find a diverse range of food across the capital. She elaborates, “Delhi has many small pockets where authentic Syrian, African, Afghan, Tibetan, and Burmese food can be found. While people cannot travel to Afghanistan, Tibet, and Myanmar, they are happy to have access to the regional delicacies which helps them understand the cultural context behind the food. The tour tries to emphasise that Delhi itself is a product of these refugee experiences.”
Goa: A local renaissance
Goa has evolved as a tourist hotspot, drawing tourists who not only wish to unwind at the beach but also indulge in mouth-watering food. Home to some of India’s most loved restaurants, the coastal state’s gastronomical prowess has grown immensely over the past few years. While one is spoilt for choice when it comes to global cuisines, the variety and depth of traditional Goan cuisine have not been explored beyond the thali establishments. “While most eateries serve global dishes, we noticed that the spotlight from traditional Goan delicacies was being taken away. Many Goan restaurants also do not serve traditional dishes that we prepare at home. Through our culinary experiences, we wanted to give the due attention to our delectable local dishes, including saasav (tangy curry made using hog plums, pineapple, mangoes), polle (local flatbread), and kel fulachi bhaji (vegetable preparation of banana flower),” says Eish Sinai Kakodkar, marketing executive, at Soul Travelling.
Goan cuisine reflects centuries of Portuguese colonial influence, indigenous Indian traditions, and the bounty of the sea. To challenge the popular perception of Goa, Soul Travelling offers walks, culinary experiences, and food trails seeped in true Goan flavour. “During our culinary experiences, we also try to showcase the authentic methods by which these dishes are prepared. The ‘Life of Pao’ experience takes travellers to a heritage bakery where local bread pao, poiee, kakonn, and loni are baked in a traditional wood-fired oven. For the ‘Island Culinary Experience’ we use grinding stones to prepare masalas and an open fire to cook the food,” shares Kakodkar.
While fish curry and rice dominate, Goa has a rich culinary heritage that includes lesser-known vegetarian fare which takes centre stage in the ‘Shivrak Sunday’ lunch experience. “We wanted to shine a light on the traditional dishes tied to festivals, temples, and local ingredients that many don’t even know exist. We curated a menu inspired by Gaud Saraswat Brahmin cuisine, highlighting dishes like moogachi gaati, maadichi kappa, patoleo, and khatkhatem,” he explains. A series of cooking demonstrations by the local islanders are at the centre of this culinary quest. By collaborating with local communities and incorporating their stories, these culinary experiences help preserve their traditions, establish a link between visitors and residents and support livelihoods.
Jaipur: Resilience by design
A product of human ingenuity, nomadic traditions, and the arid climate, Rajasthani food is a medley of robust flavours and delicate textures. While Rajasthani cuisine is celebrated for its decadent dishes like laal maas, Singh crafted a vegetarian food tour that features no vegetables. Confused? She explains, “Sustainable food practices, eating local, and vegan have become trendy buzzwords, but we forget about how our ancestors have been eating for ages. For example, chickpea flour, popular among vegans across the globe, is a key ingredient in traditional dishes including pitor ki sabzi, and besan churma.”
To challenge preconceived notions, and paint a nuanced picture of this resourceful cuisine, Singh wanted to pose and answer a question. “How can you create an entire cuisine based on very few ingredients? They’ve taken dairy, grains, and lentils and made lip-smacking dishes: hing kachori, kanji vada, ghewar, and much more. Rajasthani food is a testament to the resilience of the people who have made the best of the limited ingredients they had access to. It is worth noting that the restraint had no bearing on the vivid flavour profile. Even after sampling over 10 dishes on the tour, many tourists are unable to pick which ones they loved the most,” she observes.
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