Camparino Bar’s mixologist Tommaso Cecca on how the use of Campari has evolved in cocktails

At a time when Mumbai is experiencing an alcohol-forward approach to cocktails, mid-day.com spoke to Tommaso Cecca, global head of Camparino Bar in Milan, who was in Mumbai, about the popularity of Campari and its evolution over the years

Sitting in the heart of Milan, the renowned Camparino Bar recently appeared on the World’s 50 Best Bars in 2023. Interestingly, the European city also happens to be the home of Campari, the Italian alcoholic liqueur considered an aperitif that is obtained from the infusion of herbs and fruits. Invented by Gaspare Campari in 1860, the liqueur found its home in Milan and it was his son Davide Campari, who created the Camparino bar as an homage to his father’s first project Caffe Campari. Over the years, they have been consistently appearing on the list of the world’s best bars.

At the forefront of their effort to serve delicious cocktails are two of Milan's top mixologists Saverio Casella and Tommaso Cecca associated with the bar; the latter is the global head. So, imagine when they came down to Mumbai to not only conduct a masterclass but also a bar takeover at Hakkasan. While the rain played spoiled sport leading them to reschedule their expert class, their takeover gave city drinkers a taste of the classic red liqueur from Italy, but in unique cocktails, including the classic Negroni.

With the growing popularity of alcohol-forward cocktails in Mumbai over the last few years, mid-day.com spoke to Cecca to learn more about how he has seen Campari evolve as an ingredient in cocktails, as well as its popularity and usage to create unique cocktails. 

Here are edited excerpts:

You come from the home of Campari. How have you seen the use of Campari evolve behind the bar around the world over the years since you started? 
Traditionally, Campari's journey in the realm of cocktails has been captivating. It evolved from its role in classic cocktails to embracing innovative twists, harmonising with the symphony of crafted concoctions. This adaptability underlines our dedication to ensuring patrons' utmost comfort. The cocktail philosophy, whether traditional or innovative, remains resolute, creating resonant and meaningful connections between flavours and settings.

What is the most fascinating aspect of working with Campari, as a mixologist? What are the ingredients you experiment with while working with it? 
When it comes to experimenting with Campari and Indian flavours, I am intrigued by the potential fusion of Campari's bitter complexity with the vibrant and aromatic notes of spices. These flavours have the potential to create a captivating interplay, offering a unique sensory experience.

What are the challenges while working with Campari, especially in its home? Do people in Italy like to have their Campari traditionally or have their tastes evolved? 
If we see 24 years ago, the drinking culture in Italy was distinctly different. During that era, our cocktail culture was quite rudimentary, taking cues primarily from the American style. By ‘American style’, I mean that the cocktails of that period in Italy were quite simple, such as Gin and Tonic or Rum and Cola. In contrast, when we compare this to a city like London, a notable contrast emerges. While there was certainly room for classic cocktails in London, there was also a broad spectrum of international and timeless cocktails from around the world. This divergence in the landscape was quite pronounced during that time.

Fast forward to today, if we were to draw a comparison between the UK market and the Italian market, a noteworthy shift has occurred. Presently in Italy, we boast a multitude of exceptional bars in terms of both quantity and quality. I confidently assert that the Italian scene has significantly evolved in crafting cocktails. While London may be the epicenter of the UK, speaking on behalf of the entire country, the presence of top-notch bars is notable.

This transformation reflects the evolution of preferences and expertise, demonstrating that Italy has made remarkable strides in its approach to mixology.

What are the misconceptions about Campari among drinker, bartenders and mixologists?
Misconceptions about Campari persist among both drinkers and bartenders. A common myth is that Campari can only be paired with specific ingredients. However, local bartenders can ingeniously blend Campari with regional products to create distinctively flavoured Negronis, showcasing its versatile potential.

Being in the World's Best 50 Bars, what is the approach to innovation with cocktails? What is the biggest challenge being on the list? 
Being recognised in the World's Best 50 Bars is a testament to our company's core values, centred around humanity and the contributions of our dedicated team members. Our success stems from a philosophy of teamwork, where collaboration is the driving force behind our approach to innovation in cocktails.

The challenge lies in maintaining our international presence, which has been a key factor for us. With over 100 years of crafting cocktails for both Italian and international customers, we bear a significant responsibility. Our dedication to spreading our cultural ethos extends beyond just cocktails; it encompasses hospitality, heart, and our company's heritage.

When it comes to crafting cocktails, we embark on a special project each year in close collaboration with our team. This project sparks a creative journey that involves all 12 team members, not just one individual. This approach was evident in a recent endeavour, where our creativity was inspired by 12 different perspectives, such as the memorable experience during the Mumbai cocktail programme.

Our success hinges on presenting a new Campari cocktail programme and menu every season. Our bar is often fully booked, with reservations stretching two months ahead. We are proud to serve over a thousand cocktails daily, a remarkable achievement that reflects the collective efforts of our dedicated team.

What trend do you see developing with bartending/mixology and cocktails in the coming year? 
The industry is evolving every day with new trends. When I started working almost 25 years ago, there was a certain style of making and enjoying cocktails, and it changed roughly every decade. Comparing then to now, it is evident that Camparino has continuously sought new cocktails and techniques to provide fresh experiences to our customers.

So, I wouldn't pinpoint a single trend but rather emphasise the constant influx of innovations, techniques, and flavours from around the world that shape our field. One significant global trend is the enduring popularity of the Negroni, which has become the best-selling cocktail worldwide. This trend speaks to the appeal of vintage cocktails, and it's not just about using vintage ingredients or relying on old formulas. It's about creating a vintage Negroni using modern spirits and aging methods, resulting in unique variations based on different locations. This concept holds substantial value and represents a noteworthy trend.

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