karishma kuenzang karishma. kuenzang@ mid- day. com It was in 1993 that chef Ananda Solomon introduced Indians to authentic Thai dishes as he helmed the kitchen at the Thai Pavilion. The research period that led to the opening required Solomon to frequent Thailand, where he learnt the ropes from locals, and focused on the details. And this connection sparked off a life- long love for the food and the people. Which is why, four years after he left the venture, he is back to showcase his love for the cuisine with Thai Naam by Anandi, which he describes as u201c more than a dream,u201d when we meet him for lunch, before it opens for service on February 11.
ADVERTISEMENT
A cluster of inverted Thai umbrellas make up a chandelier that hangs from a high ceiling. Then, thereu2019s a gallery of Royal Thai Benjarong pots from the Ming dynasty and as you walk down the passage; you spot dual- toned white and black clay pottery that is now forgotten, from northern Thailand on a shelf, while ecru lime painted walls display Thai motifs from all corners of Thailand. The seating sections are laid out in similar fashion. The Bancay section has six booths with exquisite stone sculptures. Thereu2019s writing on one wall, which translates to u2018 as you eat, so you areu2019, revealing how integral food is to Thai culture and identity, Solomon tells us.
Iu2019ve learnt so much there. I miss Thailand u2014 its people and energy,u201d he tells us, as he leads us to the spacious kitchen area, which has a staff meditation room and dining area.
But we prefer the fresh pomelo salad ( ' 650), a refreshing salad with crispy soft shell crab and a generous helping of pomelo. Also because it has a fleeting hint of bitterness we find fascinating.
Piqued by the idea of a warm salad, we try the larb kai ( ' 600), which is essentially a spicy minced chicken salad with beans that adds to the dishu2019s texture.
For appetisers, we recommend the kai haw baitoey ( ' 600). The marinated chicken morsels are wrapped in pandanus leaves and fried, resulting in succulent bits that have a sweet tinge. Add a drop of sweet chilli sauce and itu2019s a whole new level of explosion of flavours as the sweetness enhances each bite. The morning glory ( ' 650), Thai spinach in yellow bean paste, is the yummiest healthy dish weu2019ve tried in the city. Prawn lovers can try the kai bai kapprao ( ' 750). The grilled succulent bites are laced with a sweet, sour and spicy dressing that highlights the trio of flavours.
The Thai red curry ( ' 700) is tangy and spicy, but also earthy; the perfect example of why Indians gravitate towards the red curry. But the green Thai curry ( ' 700) reminds us why Solomon continues to be a wizard in the kitchen. Itu2019s simple, yet each mouthful is welcoming for our tummies and taste buds alike. It doesnu2019t feel heavy and is something we, who have previously been quite sceptical of this preparation, could eat every day. The phad Thai is unlike what weu2019ve tried in Mumbai or Delhi and doesnu2019t contain sprouts, something that has otherwise become synonymous with the dish here.
We end the meal with the tub tim grob ( ' 300), which is essentially diced water chestnut in coconut milk, and also the lightest dessert weu2019ve had.
The water chestnuts are dipped in rose to give them a red colour and slight aroma, which works well with the light- as- air coconut milk, and ample ice bits. When we ask him about rooting for an authentic menu, he reasons, u201c I just know how to cook what locals eat there. I donu2019t think about authenticity. I know exactly what I am supposed to do. I have chosen a path and think I should walk on it to make a difference.u201d He certainly should.
opens on February 11, 11 am onwards AT Thai Naam - by Ananda, F- 1, 1st floor, The Orb, JW Marriott Sahar, Andheri East.
CALL 7417300300 food & drink Flying solo first look u00bb Ananda Solomonu2019s solo venture brings back comforting, authentic Thai flavours that we have been craving since his exit from Thai Pavilion Morning glory Fresh pomelo salad Tom yum soup Green Thai curry Tub tim grob Phad Thai.
pics/ sameer markande
Subscribe today by clicking the link and stay updated with the latest news!" Click here!
