Avantika shares insights into her creative process, the inspiration behind her award-winning collections, and her vision for a fashion industry that fosters.
Avantika Malhotra
In an exclusive interview, New York based fashion designer, Avantika Malhotra, discusses how her multicultural upbringing and personal experiences shape her emotionally resonant designs. Celebrated for her innovative use of sustainable materials, Avantika shares insights into her creative process, the inspiration behind her award-winning collections, and her vision for a fashion industry that fosters connection and community.
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1. Your designs are known for exploring the relationship between self and world. Can you share how your personal journey has influenced this thematic focus in your work?
I think it was three years ago when it really clicked for me that, despite our diverse experiences and backgrounds, people are incredibly similar. I aim to use my work to create a sense of belonging rather than othering. Fashion, for me, is a medium to highlight these shared experiences and foster exploration and connection. My background—being born in Mumbai, raised in Hong Kong, and now living in New York—has emphasised the importance of shared humanity beyond cultural boundaries. These experiences influence my design approach, which seeks to bridge personal and collective realms. While we all have unique and incredibly individual experiences, when you zoom out and analyse these from a macro lens, you’ll find that many people around you are having similar experiences, even if the specifics of the situation differ.
2. Your work is celebrated for its emotional depth and conversational quality. What drives you to infuse such qualities into your designs, and how do you achieve this?
My creative process is very introspective, and storytelling driven. It feels instinctive for me to carry this throughout my work. I draw from my own experiences and emotions to create designs and often, these also resonate with others. For me, the creative process flows naturally—it never starts with wondering, "Will others relate to this?" Take Whispers in the Current, for example. It started with my idea to explore scuba diving in my collection. As I explored deeper into what diving meant to me, I uncovered my complex feelings about the ocean, where it became both a place of comfort and fear. Developing the collection's message was a gradual journey, but it has sparked meaningful conversations among a wide range of people, not just divers. The collection invites discussions about the grey areas that exist in our lives, whether it's the ocean or anything else.
3. Your collections, including the award-winning Spring Summer 2024 and Whispers in the Current, highlight sustainability and innovation. How do you approach incorporating these principles into your designs?
I believe that aesthetics and sustainability can coexist without compromise. Each decision is an opportunity to employ low-waste practices — from material choices to patternmaking, fabric consumption, and production methods. This holistic approach contributes to a more sustainable production cycle. I focus on low-waste practices, using 3D software for digital patternmaking, and prioritising certified and deadstock materials.
4. At the New York Fashion Week, your Spring Summer 2024 runway presentation stood out. Can you take us through the inspiration and creation process of this collection?
My SS24 capsule collection marks a shift towards ready-to-wear, reimagining my earlier conceptual work, 'Whispers in the Current'. This collection was a personal challenge to blend strong, conceptual fashion with everyday wearability. I revisited core elements, adapting accessories, silhouettes, and prints while prioritising wearer comfort through material and fit choices. I am passionate about designing bold, conceptual fashion, and equally, I find joy in seeing these ideas translated into garments that people can incorporate into their daily lives, beyond editorial spreads.
Design is all about balance – both visually and thematically. A challenge I enjoy embracing is finding that balance between the personal and the relatable. I enjoy the entire process of turning something intangible, like an emotion, into something tangible, like a garment. And while considering the thematic, similarly, in a visual context, my favourite designs I call “tensionless”. Something that doesn’t look or feel overworked. It has a natural sense of ease – this was the guiding principle behind every look in the SS24 collection.
5. Your work has been featured on prestigious platforms. How do these recognitions impact your career and influence your future projects?
The recognitions affirm that my work connects with people and opens doors to new collaborations and partnerships. What really stands out to me is when individuals not from design backgrounds understand and resonate with the work, as this reflects a connection that goes beyond design critique.
6. You have received accolades from various design awards for your innovative use of materials and sustainability. How do you see the role of materials in your designs, and what innovations are you most excited about?
My materials serve aesthetic, functional, and sustainability purposes. Designers have two main considerations: upcycling and responsibly sourcing. Previously, I repurposed discarded wetsuits to create bespoke, one-of-a-kind pieces that highlight the material’s unique qualities. I'm also enthusiastic about innovations that enable designers to scale sustainably. Finding the right balance of upcycled and responsibly sourced materials will be crucial in achieving this goal.
One intriguing development that caught my attention is biodegradable textiles, which use materials like algae and fungi as an alternative to some synthetic fibres. I find the developments at Material ConneXion very inspiring – it’s a library of innovative materials that are not just limited to textiles, and I think this shows a very holistic and inspiring future of multidisciplinary design.
7. Looking forward, what changes or impacts do you hope to bring about in the fashion industry through your work?
I want sustainability to be a natural part of every designer's process. Beyond that, I hope collections and projects can start conversations and build communities. Fashion is about more than just clothes; it's about creating stories and immersive experiences that engage people deeply. What I love most about our industry is the collaborative spirit, the constant innovation, and the meaningful impact we can have, working with a diverse range of creatives—from graphic designers to photographers and beyond.
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