An ongoing Koli food festival is rousing our senses and teaching us about a people resolute in writing its culture
Mer helms the kitchen at the ongoing Koli food festival
If this writer were to show up at a Koliwada one day, what smells would greet her? “Apart from the pronounced whiff of fish and salt water, the scent of a piquant spice mix on hot oil will waft out of my home,” says Shobha Mer. Mer’s koliwada opens to the Boisar Creek. Apart from curried and grilled versions of fresh catch, an everyday Koli meal is well-balanced with bhajis and saars (soups). But for the fishing community strewn across Mumbai in small pockets, food connotes a nervous wait. When fisherfolk enter the sea, they might not return for a week. The uncertainty around a good catch can affect sustenance and so, they hope to not haul in and dry out empty nets.
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Shobha Mer with her group of Kolis
At a food festival at Saptami, Holiday Inn, Mer is serving a slice of her Koli culture. Suresh Thampy, its executive chef, and his team, have assisted Mer in curating a menu that best reflects the community’s penchant for flavours. Sol kadi, chinche cha saar, bombil chilly, machhi pattice, tikhat dal, mutton and chimbori rassa, and many more dishes — a varied menu spanning 10 days — leaves a foodie salivating. “Cooking at home or for small functions is a lot different than cooking in a commercial, white-light kitchen. I was nervous towards the start, but over the past few days, I have gained some confidence,” shares Mer who cooks an elaborate dinner at the fest along with her women gang of five. Decked up in gold, and wearing a nauvari — nine yards of silken elegance — feeding people from different cultures does bear testimony to her identity. “Our numbers are dwindling. Sometimes, these fests can garner faith. The younger generation learns from us on a daily basis, but during a festival, they are able to place themselves in context with a bigger world,” Mer says, adding that the youth can network better. Can that help their legacy live on? Mer hopes it will.
Talking about a cooking technique that is quite similar to the Bengali leaf-smoked fish recipes, Mer says that Kolis shallow fry fish in banana leaf parcels to add a smoky flavor. She is glad that she took up this chance of meeting and feeding people and didn’t give in to her nerves.
Till March 27, 7.30 pm to 11.30 pm
At Saptami, Holiday Inn, Andheri East.
Cost Rs 2,100 onwards (plus taxes)
Call 9004617824
Bharlela paplet
Ingredients
(For one king-size pomfret)
. 1 tsp ginger paste
. 1 tsp garlic paste
. 2 pc green chillies
. 1 small bowl grated coconut
. 2 tsp turmeric powder
. 1 tsp red chilli powder
. ½ tsp garam masala powder
. ½ tsp coriander powder
. One big banana leaf
. 2 tbsp oil
Method
Make a wet paste of all the ingredients. Slit the fish along its belly to make room for the masala stuffing. Now, marinate the fish in the paste and let it rest. Wrap the fish in a banana leaf parcel using a thread, and then, shallow-fry it in hot oil on an iron skillet. The pomfret dish tastes best when served with rice.
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