Delhi's famed Nagpal's chhole eatery opens up in Mumbai

Chawal chhole palak paneer

We can't keep calm because Delhi's famous Nagpal's chhole from Amar Colony in Lajpat Nagar has opened an outpost in Khar. After having spent a year of exploring the capital's culinary landscape in 2019, and setting off on a chhole trail across Mumbai-Delhi, we were keen to make a trip to Khar. "Par pani ka farak nahin hoga (won't the cooking water differ the taste?)" Pallavi Pasricha asked us. The travel and food writer was curious to find out and agreed to accompany us for the taste test.

The outlet is nestled between the 1st and 4th Roads in Khar West and is strategically located to attract commuters. Up a few flights, the shop has standing tables to grab a quick bite, or you can order and enjoy a snack in the comfort of your car. The owner, Siddhant Thakur, a real estate entrepreneur, enthusiastically tells us he is friends with the owners of the Nagpal outlet in Lajpat Nagar, South East Delhi, explaining how the Mumbai outpost made a quiet launch recently.

Kadhi chawal

We recall having relished the greasy finger-licking Nagpal chhole for Sunday breakfast as cars had lined up with people waiting to take home their parcels. The massive handis sat on stoves with low flames, slowly cooking the chickpeas for hours, and flooding the street with aroma. The version served at this 25-year-old outlet is a cross between Amritsari and Rawalpindi versions, with a thick gravy, but a milder play on the masala. The tangy anardana hits the palate loud and clear.

Pasricha and we are early birds. This allows us to be privy to how the cook makes the bhatura. For the paneer bhatura, they stuff a roundel of maida with paneer and roll it flat before frying. The hot oil welcomes it into the kadhai and turns it golden brown. The sizzle is music to the ears.

We first dig into the special chhole bhature paneer wale (Rs 110), which is served with an awla achar, mirchi, a pudina chutney. Aloo pieces have soaked in all the masalas. It's nostalgia for her. She says, "It comes very close to the Dilli style, but it's still not 100 per cent there. I liked the bhatura that came stuffed with paneer. It was fluffy and not too thick."

Delhi-based travel and food writer Pallavi Pasricha came along for a taste test to Delhi's famous Nagpal's chhole's franchise in Khar

The chawal chhole palak paneer (half: Rs 80) comes on a bed of rice. The rajma chawal (half: Rs 80) is light on the stomach but doesn't end up making a very lasting impression. But the letdown, says Pasricha, is the kadhi chawal (half: Rs 70). The pakodis are tough, and the kadhi is too thick, which doesn't allow the pakodis. We decide to make up for it with a glass of sweet lassi (Rs 50). Pasricha points out that the masala that was sprinkled on top of the chole and all the other dishes should have been in the gravy.

Her fondest memory of a chhole meal is going to Haldiram's or Roshan di Kulfi in Karol Bagh. "Whenever I was there for a shopping spree, I never left without eating a plate: with college friends, I'd go to Bengal Sweet House. The chhole in Delhi is on the tangier and spicier side, which is what I missed here."

What: Nagpal's Chole Bhature
At: Nagpal's Shop No. 6, Mishra House, Lot No. 41/42, junction of 1st and 4th road corner, Khar
When: 10 am to 11 pm
Call: 9920393369
Rating : OKAY

Nagpal's Chole Bhature didn't know we were there. Sunday Mid-day reviews anonymously and pays for meals.