Temptation Island

From a sleepy hamlet known for hosting film shoots to the seat of experimental home kitchens fuelled by the lockdown, Madh Island is making news on the culinary front

In the last few years, what was formerly a neglected peninsula—heavily guarded by its last bastion, the fisherfolk Koli community—is now home to an unexpected demographic of the expat artist community, actors, models, musicians and creative entrepreneurs. Away from the city’s hustle, Madh is a breath of fresh air with an inherent charm.

Butter chicken and naan

Almost bohemian. Despite the odd, long commute that involves taking the boat from the Versova jetty, the quality of life here is good. It’s the upscale gated communities where the high brow live. And yet, Madh Island is missing the fancy restaurants and shopping malls.

Kheema samosa

The lockdown changed the food scene, and how. Several home kitchens—assisted by a common WhatsApp group—came up to help those who couldn’t cook or order in and this opened the doors to a completely new food scene on the island. mid-day decided to eat around Madh and document the best.

Multicuisine delights By Tarannum Merchant

Tarannum Merchant

Although Tarannum Merchant is a passionate cook, the thought of starting a home kitchen was the last thing on her mind. During the lockdown however, when businesses were shut and she was free, Merchant decided to rustle up a few dishes. It would mean extra income too. Comfortable with making Indian, Chinese, Thai and Italian fare, including nalli nihari, hummus and pita, Thai curry and lemon baked cheesecake, she has been busy with party orders and daily tiffins. While she admits that niche baking ingredients may not be easily available on the island, “WeFast comes to the rescue”.
Price: Rs 60 onwards
To Order: 9619550666

Northeastern kick By Anindita Bora

Anindita Bora

Former flight attendant Anindita Bora liked cooking for friends and colleagues, until three years ago when she gave it a serious shot and started an Assamese dinner pop up at her residence. These were a success and put her name on the list of select chefs in Mumbai offering food from the region. “Cuisine from the Northeast part of India is relatively lesser known, but people are curious to taste it and the ones who do, get easily hooked,” she thinks. Her river fish dish, masor tenga, and pork specials like Naga pork, khasi pork, pork pickles, and khasi-style whole chicken pot roast, are a hit. She has learnt to negotiate the erratic cycle of work, but on most days, she receives at least six orders. Because quality of ingredients defines the taste, during the lockdown she remembers driving to trusted fish and meat hawkers in Four Bungalows to source. When she and her musician husband chose to move to Madh six years ago from Four Bungalows in Andheri, they were aware of the limited options available to eat out and order in. Two dhaba-style  restaurants and an Indian fast food joint was all there was in the name of choice. “[During the pandemic] home  food has become a must. These have been some of the best years of my life. God has been kind.”
Price: Rs 350 onwards
To order: 9920314048

German treats By Patricia Moesta

German Apple streusel cake

Fondly called the “German lady who bakes”, it was Patricia Moesta’s love for flavours and hospitality that made her jump into the world of patisseries in 2017. “We just started off in a very close friend circle before we distributed our first official flyer for Diwali in 2018. We always knew that if and when we do something on our own, it will involve food, hospitality, comfort and spreading happiness,” says Moesta, who specialises in German cakes and treats including nussecken, gugelhupfs, apple streusel, vanilla chocolate chip cake with milk chocolate ganache, German cheesecake with homemade hung curd, Jack sparrow—rum and dark chocolate. For the sugar conscious clientele, there is the mixed nut vegan cake as well as the ginger carrot walnut cake with lemony cream cheese topping.

Patricia Moesta and husband Sajjad Zaidi are known for their delicious cakes in Madh. Moesta bakes a storm with recipes from her hometown in Germany. Pic/Sameer Markande

Seasonal favourites include gingerbread man and the Christmas cake. “It started off in Madh Island, but we now deliver across Mumbai. It has become a close knit Wildflour family,” she says of her bakery business. Moesta sources most of the ingredients from Germany, and wishes to take baking back to the fundamentals. “Everyone should be able to enjoy a treat along with a cup of chai or coffee any time. Whatever the mood, occasion or time of day or night, in company or by themselves, feeling low or high, I believe there is a cake for everyone.” 
Price: Rs 350 onwards
To order: @wildflourgermanmade, Instagram; 9820676945

Vegan love By Arti Kohli

Beetroot hummus

When Arti Kohli’s children turned vegan two years ago, she was required to look at an alternate way of life. In came soy tikka, vegan shawarma, vegan cheese and desserts like dairy-free halwa. She decided to open her home kitchen to other vegans on the island. That’s how Mummascusisine was born.

Coconut milk

“My children made me look at food through a vegan lens. I have been catering to vegans on the island. My entire kitchen as well as outlook to food has transformed and I am only happy to share my love for cooking with others,” says Kohli, who offers quintessential Indian dishes, too, in vegan avatar.

Arti Kohli with a plate of naankhatai

Think saag and missi roti, shami kabab, vegan sevaiyan, firni-al-vegan. Another hit from this kitchen is Kohli’s signature dip—the red chutney.
Price: Rs 200 onwards
To order: @mummascuisine; 9899353623

Bengal to Kerala Express By Shamita Roy and Jayprakash Uchil

Shamita Roy and husband Jayprakash Uchil are a team. He is a chef, and Shamita is the founder of Nourishment Foods, a farm to table initiative

During the lockdown, when a bunch of neighbours floated a WhatsApp group to cater to those residents who didn’t have maids to help, Shamita Roy and Jayprakash Uchil decided they’d launch a home kitchen that paid tribute to the glorious non-vegetarian fare from their home states, Kerala and West Bengal. “Our hit dishes are chicken paanch phoron, spicy mutton curry and Kerala pepper beef. We also make avial, mishti doi, and moru curry,” says Uchil. Usually, a day’s notice is good enough, and the couple is happy to take on large catering for party orders too.

A Manglorean delicacy comprising ash gourd and pulses, along with the Maharashtrian thecha and Kerala papad and rice

“ I like to add surprise accompaniments to the meal, from tamarind, to raw mango to even ice cream and payasam,” he adds. In addition, the couple also works with a small collective of farmers who specialise in growing gluten-free and low-on-sugar emmer wheat. “India has never been so health conscious before, so we thought it was apt to reintroduce this ancient grain to city folk. We also source organic honey from Jammu, cold pressed edible oils and buffalo and cow ghee,” says Roy.
Price: Meat dishes @Rs 550 a plate with complimentary rice.
To order: 9820698880

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