Of trends and techniques, chef Andy Allen shares his favourites during his recent trip to Mumbai. Excerpts from a freewheeling chat with Sunday mid-day
Chef Andy Allen
Australian chef Andy Allen was only one exam away from becoming a fully qualified electrician when he dared to enter as a contestant on MasterChef 2012—the rest, as the world knows, is history. Despite being by far the most inexperienced and weakest cook in the group, he read, researched, watched, and listened, and emerged as the youngest winner of MasterChef. When we met him last month at the launch of Fabelle Chocolates’ 5 Taste Sensations, which he co-created with the brand using Australian macadamia nuts, we immediately noticed his penchant for curiosity. Currently MasterChef Australia’s judge he co-runs a restaurant, Three Blue Ducks, and travels the world with a thirst to learn as much as he can about food.
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What is your favourite ingredient to work with?
Sugar—it’s a tip-top ingredient, not only in its raw form, but also, the more you cook it, the more transformation it undergoes, and I like to play in that range because I don’t like overtly sweet dishes.
A global trend you are happy to adopt?
In Australia and globally, there’s a shift to classics—French, Italian or European masterpieces—made simple, not by deconstructing it but by crafting it more cleanly. A humble pie for instance, made using French technique but with beef rendang or a lobster Thermador, recreated for the modern palate, removing the heaviness but retaining the core of the dish that the contemporary palate appreciates. In India, the emerging trend I see is to bring international ingredients—like macadamia or finger lime—and cultivate them here, and incorporate them into menus across India, not making them the focal point of the dish but enhancing its flavours, and lending the dish a spin.
How did MasterChef Australia transform you?
As a contestant, the challenge of MasterChef got me interested in cooking. The thought that something is impossible, but you realise it isn’t when you push yourself hard enough and work towards it. The whole six-month filming process being away from family and friends, and each day was different in the kitchen. That is what I enjoy—to be pushed and do the things I want to. As a judge, I love that I can nurture the contestants’ talent to cook the best food we can. I got that from George Calombaris and Gary Mehigan—part of the challenge is to harness the emotions and put them into the dish.
What have been your favourites in India?
From vada pav on the streets to dal bukhara at ITC to the Indian food reimagined at The Bombay Canteen—I have enjoyed it all. I will come back and spend time in restaurant and street kitchens to satiate my curiosity and learn. Indian food is hot right now. I was reading the Top 10 dishes for 2023 in Australia, and two were Indian.
A cause you are passionate about?
Mental health is discussed everywhere. People have begun to realise the importance of speaking up and being in touch with their emotions. The hospitality industry is high-pressure and high-energy, and mental pressure also comes with it—it’s a constant battle. Back home, we have 315 employees across our restaurants. We look at keeping open lines of communication for the staff to myself and the Human Resources so they can share their concerns if any.
How real can farm-to-table be?
Our restaurant, Three Blue Ducks, is built on 88 acres of land, of which seven acres are farms where we work with farmers, and also raise pigs, cattle and hens. It is as accurate as it can get, but we still have to work with other suppliers because we don’t have the amount of produce that we need to cook the food required at the restaurant (about 2500 dishes a day). However, running a farm, working seasons ahead, planning and knowing the soil for future crops—it requires precision. Farming is one thing; running a restaurant is another; putting the two together is possible but extremely hard.
What’s a cooking technique you love the most?
Cooking on fire. It is unpredictable; with different variables, it reacts differently, and learning to master it takes time. Actually, you never really master it, but that’s the true joy of cooking.
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