Masters of tradition, flavour, and feast, the modern maharaj isn’t afraid to give a contemporary tadka to heritage recipes
Rajesh Ambavali, a seasoned cook with 28 years of experience, is in high demand for his Mongolian stir-fry and apple pie. (Right) Mangilal Gurjar, who cycles to work, is ready to fly out for party requests. Pics/ADITI HARALKAR
Mangilal Nandaji Gurjar, 45, was at his village in Sangriya, Chittorgarh district in Rajasthan, enjoying a break before Diwali. He was on his family farm when “Bhabhiji” called from Khar, asking him to get on a flight to Mumbai for an urgent party the next day. Tanvi Shah, founder of The Millennial Kitchen, only trusts him; her guests have expectations.
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The next morning, Gurjar was in town, rolling up his sleeves, tying his apron. “Mangilal is my trusted Maharaj,” says Shah. “I am very particular about my recipes; he respects that and executes them with spirit and creativity.”
Gurjar started as househelp more than 20 years ago, and used to make basic dal-chawal-roti-subzi before graduating to make huge spreads. “The matriarch of the family shares most recipes, and we add our inputs,” he says. “These days, YouTube is an excellent source for learning recipes in our language, and more often than not, families are okay with us trying out new ones while respecting and preserving their traditional recipes.”
Maharajs are not just cooks, they are custodians of a rich culinary heritage and known for their expertise in traditional community-specific cuisines. These skilled chefs, often trained in the kitchens of royal families or through generations of family knowledge, bring an unmatched depth of flavour and authenticity to every dish. From lavish feasts at weddings to festive celebrations, maharajs are revered for their ability to blend ancient recipes with local ingredients, creating meals that are as soulful as they are delicious.
In fact, the term maharaj carries profound cultural and religious significance, rooted in Hindu beliefs about the sacredness of food. It reflects respect for a chef’s mastery of recipes and cooking techniques.
Purple yam pie
Ingredients
1 purple yam (kand)
1 sweet potato (ratalu)
1/2 cup peas
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
1 tbsp freshly grated coconut
1 tsp mustard seeds
1 tsp sesame seeds
A few whole red chillies
1 tsp ginger paste
1 tsp green chilli paste
1 tsp fresh lemon juice
1.5 tsp salt
A pinch of cooking soda
8 ml oil
Method
Boil purple yam, mash and peel. Mix with salt, 1/2 tsp ginger paste, 1/2 tsp green chilli paste, 1/2 tsp lemon juice, and 1/2 tsp salt.
Boil sweet potato, mash, and mix condiments similarly. Set aside.
Boil the peas and mash them. Heat 3 ml oil on medium flame and sauté the peas, cilantro, and coconut with 1/2 tsp salt and a pinch of cooking soda. Mix and set aside.
Alternatively layer purple yam, pea mix, sweet potato, and purple yam again. Top with a tempering of oil, mustard seeds, whole red chillies, and sesame seeds.
Plating tip: Push the purple yam mash through a spiraliser or chakli maker to create noodle-like spirals.
Quinoa sheera
Ingredients
1 cup quinoa
2 tbsp ghee (olive oil for vegans)
1 tbsp stevia powder
1.5 tsp cardamon powder
1 tbsp slivered almonds
1 tbsp cashew nuts
Pinch of salt
Method
Soak quinoa in water for two hours, drain and grind in a blender. Heat ghee and add the ground quinoa paste, stevia, salt, and cardamom powder. Roast together on medium flame for 30 minutes. Adjust stevia to your palate for sweetness; raw stevia is a good sweetener for cooking. Garnish with slivered almonds and toasted cashews, and serve.
Apple pie
Ingredients
5 large cooking apples, soft variety
Juice of 1/2 a lemon
1 tsp cinnamon powder
1 tbsp sugar
Milk for glazing
Vanilla ice cream or fresh cream
For the pastry
1 cup plain flour
125 gm cold butter cut into pieces
1 pinch of salt
METHOD
Mix lemon juice in one teacup of water. Peel, core and cut the apples into thin slices. Pour lemon juice, add sugar and cook until pulpy. Add cinnamon powder. Set to cool Sieve flour and sugar together. Rub butter into flour and mix with the tips of your fingers. Add ice-cold water to make a pastry dough. Divide it into two parts and roll out on a lightly floured board to fit an ungreased pie dish. Prick with a fork all over and bake in a preheated oven at 450°F for six minutes. Remove, fill with apple pulp. Cover with the other sheet of pastry and seal the edges by pressing down with a fork. Make a few slits on the top with a sharp knife for steam to escape. Brush with a bit of milk. Bake at 220°C for 10 to 15 minutes.
Mongolian stir-fry
Ingredients
For chilli-ginger sauce
2 tsp sesame oil
1/2 tsp ginger paste
1/2 tsp green chilli paste
1/2 tsp garlic paste
1/2 tsp chilli flakes
1 bundle spring onion, chopped
2 tsp dark soya sauce
2 tsp corn flour in
1/2 cup water
For sweet and sour sauce
1/2 tsp garlic paste
1/2 tsp ginger paste
Salt and white pepper
1/2 tsp sugar
1 tsp tomato ketchup
1/2 cup parsley
Mongolian three-spice powder
1 tsp star anise
1/2 tsp cinnamon powder
1/2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
Ground and store in a bottle
Lemon cilantro sauce
1.5 lemons, juiced
1/2 tsp sugar
Salt
1/2 tsp each, green chilli + ginger chopped
1 bunch coriander
Water
Mix all the ingredients. Do not heat the sauce.
Vegetables
Parboil beans, carrots, baby corn, broccoli, snow peas, water chestnuts.
Julienne raw, green, red and yellow bell pepper, button mushrooms and zucchini
Fried noodles
Boil dry, fry and store.
METHOD
For chilli-ginger sauce, sauté ginger and green chilli paste in oil, add soya, water, corn flour and spring onion leaves. Keep aside.
For sweet and sour sauce, sauté paste, corn flour, water and other ingredients, except parsley
Remove from flame and add parsley.
Heat sesame oil, sauté onions and mushrooms, and add other vegetables, sauces and three spice powders.
Garnish with fried noodles. Serve immediately!
Note: This dish is naturally vegan. Tofu or sprouts can be added for protein.
Making it a healthy Diwali
Tanvi Shah shares why quinoa is one of those rare gems in the plant-based world labelled a superfood: It’s naturally gluten-free, perfect for fasting (farhal), and contains all nine essential amino acids. Think this—you get 222 calories, 8.1 grams of protein, 39 grams of carbs, and 3.6 grams of fat in just a single cup of cooked quinoa. But beyond numbers, what makes quinoa really shine is its low glycemic index which means it keeps your blood sugar steady, with no sudden spikes, giving balanced energy. And it’s not just about carbs and protein—quinoa is packed with fibre, antioxidants, and essential vitamins and minerals, making it one of those versatile, nutrient-rich staples that fit seamlessly into a healthy, well-rounded diet. Ingredient wise too, it is versatile—so you can make a sweet or savoury dish from it as per your liking.
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