Indian chef Rohit Ghai wins a Michelin star for Jamavar London, 10 months into launching, and we realise he may be making a habit of it
Sitting on Mount Street, a charming Mayfair locality in London, Jamavar is now the proud recipient of a Michelin star. It was awarded the honour in the Great Britain and Ireland Michelin Guide 2018 last week, along with 16 other restaurants. The good news arrived within barely 10 months of launching.
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Dinesh Nair and daughter Samyukta of The Leela group give credit where it's due -- to Jamavar's executive chef, Rohit Ghai.
The Institute of Hotel Management, Gwalior, graduate says prepping for a Michelin, is the same as ensuring quality and consistency for a flawless experience day after day. "The Michelin rating is an anonymous process that occurs over a minimum of three and a maximum of seven visits. It's important that a restaurant focuses on quality and consistency and aims to present a well-rounded authentic menu. Rigorous training with my team, regular food tastings and refresher sessions have allowed us to ensure that recipe standards are met," he says over an email interview.
The first Jamavar opened in the 1990s at The Leela Palace, Bengaluru, and was conceived by Dinesh Nair himself. His idea was to take two opposing flavour profiles, from the North and South of India, and marry them in a menu that offered a fine dining experience.
Rohit Ghai
At Jamavar London, which is spread across two floors, the decor takes inspiration from the Viceroy's House in New Delhi -- Chaturanga dining tables sit against a backdrop of vibrant Jamavar shawls, and dark timber panelling.
Ghai relies on smoky flavours and his experience in the London market offering a menu of distinctive small plates of Kid Goat Shammi Kebab with Churchur Paratha, Aloo Tikki and Scallops Bhel, along with classics like Lobster Neeruli and Jamavar Daal.
"My travels across India find a place in my cooking," he says. The focus on farm to table sees Ghai source ingredients from within England, except for the spices that come from India.
Ghai has been a Londoner since 2007 when he arrived here from Gwalior to work with celebrated chef Atul Kocchar at Benares, his Indian-British fusion cuisine outpost in Mayfair.
Later, he helmed Gymkhana -- inspired by colonial India's gymkhana clubs -- and Trishna, both restaurants from Karam Sethi and family. "Gymkhana also received a star within one year of opening" Ghai says with pride, "while Trishna's star was respectfully maintained in my time there. I also helmed the launch of Verandah, their modern Indian restaurant in Copenhagen."
Ghai, who lives in Hounslow, West London, with his wife Akansha and four-year-old daughter Trisha, grew up in Gwalior, savouring his mother's Sarson Ka Saag and Makkai Ki Roti. "Punjabi families are constantly surrounded by good food. I'd spend hours with my mother in the kitchen. The memory of her cooking and its aroma make my mouth water, even today," he says.
Ghai credits her for fostering a strong connection with Indian cuisine. His older brother, Sunil, also a chef in Dublin, is the owner of a restaurant and someone Ghai calls his inspiration. "He flew down to celebrate my victory," Ghai says.
We realise in the middle of running through his replies to our queries that it's back to service for the chef. He must prep for a one-off Diwali Suits & Sarees dinner that the restaurant is hosting. But his mind is actually working overtime to plan the anticipated festive menu focused on seasonal produce that Jamavar will offer all of December.
We are ecstatic to have received the honour," he says, "There's a celebratory air at the restaurant."
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