Mumbai Food: Chembur's new eatery is a throwback to the 90s

Chembur's soon-to-open eatery pleases with its nostalgic dishes that have found a home in the city over the years

It's no secret that Mumbai is a melting pot of cultures and cuisines. With every ruler that the city saw, the trade capital became home to communities such as Sindhis, Gujaratis and Bengalis to name a few. Even today, when you pass through Ghatkopar or Vile Parle, signboards in Gujaratis, while Matunga will welcome you with the fragrance of filter coffee. Vashi in Navi Mumbai is dotted with Bengali restaurants and locals while Chembur's Sindhi colony is always ready to serve you dal pakwan.

Restaurateur Ashish Sajnani understands the Mumbai character well. He started a food revolution in Chembur with Le Café and then went to give the city its first ever (licenced) food truck called Bombay Food Truck. He is now once again celebrating his love for the city and everything old school, through his soon-to-open restaurant, Via Bombay. If the name is a slight giveaway on what the concept might be, he explains, "Via Bombay amalgamates communities and cuisines that represent Bombay since the '90s in form of mouth-watering food. The idea is to keep the food old school and true to its form, just the way you might eat it at home."

Pateli ghosht biryani

Via Bombay, which is located on the first floor of the hotel Jewels Of Chembur, shares its wall with Le Café. As you enter through the antique wooden door, you will spot a glass wall covered with old newspaper page that features iconic moments in the lives of Mumbaikars. The dining area is divided into two section using old print advertisements of popular brands, and the décor is highlighted with Sajnani's personal antique collection.

The food is Indian but does feature a few Chinese dishes that are an ode to the iconic street-style Chinese that we all have enjoyed growing up. The menu pans through soups, starters, and chakna to go with your drinks and mains. We started our preview with a flavourful Paya Soup (Rs 250) that was served with kadak bread (brun) that could be dipped in the stew. Next up was a Drumstick Soup (R210) that uses Sajnani family's recipe, which is simple yet, reminds you of a warm hug. The pappadam is one of the most important additions to any Indian meal and thus at Via Bombay, they have a special section on the menu dedicated to it. You can sample six different styles of pickles and chutneys to go with an assortment of Pappadam Tokri (Rs 190).

Ashish Sajnani

The cocktail menu also brings out the flavours of Bombay with their rendition of whiskey sour, which is called Bombay Sour (Rs 350), and uses tamarind paste to add a tangy flavour to it. If you are looking for something more potent, then we suggest the Patiala lassi (of course with alcohol), that is a creamy concoction of rum, baileys, yoghurt and coconut syrup.

For appetisers, we started with the Maharashtrian Platter — with sabudana wada, mungdal wada, batata vada, kothimbir wadi and vegetarian cutlets. We then shifted towards the Goan chorizo poi that was the way you may have eaten at the New Martin Hotel in Colaba. Another dish that comes highly recommended is khatta mittha hilli served with amrud chutney. What will blow your mind is the delicate flavour of the guava.

If you are in the mood for a lazy Sunday meal here, the Sindhi curry (Rs 315) is for you. The pre-plated meal comes with steamed rice, papad, sukha daal, aloo tuk, sweet boondi and a glass of buttermilk. The curry is served in brass utensils adding a homely feel to it. The Pateli ghost bryani is served straight in the pressure cooker that it is made in. As the biryani is transferred from the cooker to your plate, the steam and the aromas will get your mouth watering. Via Bombay pleases with its food, while allowing you to relive moments of what we fondly once knew as Bombay.

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