Wake up and smell the coffee

Deep in the heart of lush forests and plantations of Chikmagalur, its locals are doing a phenomenal job of safeguarding its green cover. Our home state's hill stations can take a cue, perhaps

"It's a region that is blessed with precious natural bounty. If we don't look after it, who will?" said Uttam Gowda, the six-foot plus coffee planter in the outskirts of Chikmagalur, as he gave us 'the tour' of his sprawling estate that included a massive coffee processing unit. We, of course, were still savouring the soothing notes of hazelnut that laced our palate when we had earlier sipped on some heavenly cold coffee at his café that was a stone's throw away.

We were in coffee country in its purest version, where it all began. Nestled in the slopes of the Western Ghats, its verdant forests, thanks to heavy rainfall and good water conservation channels, kept us engaged throughout our drive from the sleepy hill station town to the higher climes. In the background, like a robust sentinel guarding over his treasure, we spotted Karnataka's highest peak, Mullayanagiri. The avian population was a delight for birdwatchers while the green cover sans any litter, would have brought an instant smile to the faces of eco-friendly souls.

It was coffee bean-picking season; which translated to a busy time for Gowda's ilk. All around beans in all shades off-red, plum and dark brown greeted us. As our companion brought up the challenges of conserving this topography, especially from the timber mafia and builder lobby, he shared the story, "We [coffee planters] are all connected via WhatsApp, so the moment we spot illegal activity like felling or undocumented construction, we report it to the police and forest department. Authorities have been very strict and supportive of our efforts."

Gowda added how the simple use of technology had helped immensely, "The green cover is under threat, understandably so due to builders and timber barons eyeing this scenic landscape for their interests, but our small group is a very strong, tight unit that is doing its best to safeguard this land." It was impressive, as he shared the efforts to keep commercialisation under check. And, the results were there for us to see. In fact, every tree during our 20-km-ride had been numbered.
The Bombaywallah that we are, imagery from Khandala, Lonavla and Matheran soon flooded the mind. Comparisons were made in the head, and all of a sudden, the soothing taste of the hazelnut had left our palate. For the next few moments, we recalled the damage that had been perpetrated on these hill stations closer home. How did it all come such ruin? We had no answers.

A few hours earlier, we were basking in the serenity of Hirekolale Lake, a manmade water body surrounded by hills on all sides. All we could hear were the sounds of a few drongos and coppersmith barbets caress the calm waters in front of us. No boating, no kiosks, no concrete structures, so guess what? No tourists. Just one couple was around, lost in a quiet embrace. Later, we learnt that it was a conscious effort by the tourism department to not introduce any kind of water sport activity.

That evening, as we went looking for souvenirs in the town, there were none. Turns out, Chikmagalur doesn't really go to any extent to 'exploit' its USPs. We didn't spot glitzy coffee shops packed with tourists, or weekend bazaars that offered kitschy wares. Barring a few shops that sold homegrown coffee and spices, it was pretty much a one-traffic-signal town. Then again, this laid back, languid vibe made for a refreshing departure when compared to the eyesores that have destroyed our hill stations back home. For us, the real takeaways were the lessons from up in the hills, where eco warriors and strict policy had ensured that this beautiful land was in safe hands.

mid-day's Features Editor Fiona Fernandez relishes the city's sights, sounds, smells and stones...wherever the ink and the inclination takes her. She tweets @bombayana
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