Waiters don’t say, ’Aavjo’, the Thali does the trick

A household name in Mumbai for decades, Thackers at Girgaum Chowpatty undergoes a makeover. Though the Gujarati thali costs about four times what it used to, here's why it's still worth every penny

Freshly renovated, it's not just the ambience at Thackers that's been overhauled. Even the service here has improved. Though the staff was always attentive at this popular Gujarati eatery, their entire approach has clearly been worked on, resulting in better presentation, people skills and increased efficiency.

With dark wood floors and furniture, concealed spotlights dotting the ceiling and plasma screens mounted at corners of the restaurant, the re-born eatery bears no resemblance to the old Gujarati hotel where a thali was priced at just about Rs 80, a few years ago.

Service was prompt and the thali was scrumptious, which explained why the place was busy even on a Monday night. The daal was a tad too sweet for our taste buds, even though we know Gujaratis like a liberal dose of "khaan" in it. Asked if they could cut down on the sugar content, the captain seemed puzzled, yet managed a polite smile as he shook his head and explained, "This is authentic Gujarati food." But if you are hosting a large dinner, the restaurant is happy to customise the recipe, and the thali as well as everything on the a-la-carte menu here, including the pure vegetarian North Indian dishes and many varieties of chaats (available in Jain version too).

As we sampled each dish on our regular thali (Rs 332 inclusive of taxes, and unlimited chhaas), the waiters grew increasingly interested in our untouched bowl of Shrikhand. "If you like, we can get you Gulab Jamuns, instead," one of them suggested. We tried the sweet eventually, stocks of which, the menu warns you, are "limited", and the light, sweet, yoghurt, with a touch of saffron, garnished with pistachio shavings was perfectly pleasant.

The restaurant also has a large, air-conditioned banquet hall with a huge wooden porch that overlooks the lawn and sea. Parties can be organised at Rs 700 per head onwards, depending on the menu. Soft music is part of the deal, but organising a DJ would mean an additional Rs 8,000.

At: Birla Kreeda Kendra, Chowpatty, Girgaum.
Call: 23649300 / 23649301

Thackers didn't know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals

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