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Hamari Maange Poori Karo

Updated on: 02 June,2009 08:34 AM IST  | 
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The party poopers are out of the way. Halla bol! If the genteel members of India's fashion industry aren't saying it, or stating it in so many words, they certainly believe it.

Hamari Maange Poori Karo

The party poopers are out of the way. Halla bol! If the genteel members of India's fashion industry aren't saying it, or stating it in so many words, they certainly believe it.

With the pro-reform UPA government at the helm, and young blood (even if only in spurts) injected into Dr Manmohan Singh's cabinet, designers, exporters and corporates who head international brand franchises in India, are hoping the new Commerce & Industry Minister Anand Sharma lends them an ear.

The individuals we spoke to want a two-way change: inside-out and an outward-in. While the creative gang that includes independent fashion designers who represent the country year-after year at prestigious trade shows and fashion weeks, want to see some concrete help in the form of funding and strengthening PR budgets so that Indian fashion can gain acceptance, Indian franchisees of international luxury labels have a bone to pick over non-standardisation of octroi and import duties.

How can an Indian head a student association?


Fashion designer Navonil Das recounts how he dealt with subtle racism while studying Down Under



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I picked the Canberra Institute of Technology (CIT) because it was known as a non-conformist institution, where I could study fashion as an art form.

Besides, there was the charm of being away from the distractions of a big city. Theu00a0 four-and-a-half years I spent there were interlaced with pleasant and not-so-nice memories.

I was an active student, involved in student welfare and sports activities.

By the end of the first year, I was heading the International Students Union and was responsible for organising events that involved students from all over the world. Most of them approached me with language or housing problems.
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During the second year, I took on a more serious role of Sexuality Officer, the first for an Indian. I had to deal with safe sex, sexual equality, and harassment issues.
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I was later elected President of the Student Association (again, a first for an international student) from 14,000 students. I went on to become Ambassador to the Government.

The roles I ended up playing proved that Australians were friendly, open to citizens of other countries as long as we tried our best to assimilate with the mainstream community.

But I won't deny that some locals did carry the baggage of prejudice, and that saw them interact with us in peculiar ways.
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I experienced racism in very subtle ways. An incident that comes to mind is of a professor who'd hurl comments like, "Oh, you behave so much like an Indian".

Or, she'd check with the Student Association how it was okay for an overseas student to head a body like that. Maybe, she was threatened, or she feared that if an international student headed the community, a change in value system was likely.
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I chose to point this out to concerned authorities who set up an enquiry and reprimanded the professor. She was barred from interacting with me in any way.
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When I was serving as a part-time steward, I'd encounter remarksu00a0 like: "Oh, you speak really good English! Where is that accent from?". These remarksu00a0 might soundu00a0 harmless, but the tone was more than racist.

But I took it in my stride, and once in a while, replied so that I could shut them up.

On the other hand, I was also one of the only waiters to be tipped regularly by local customers, even though Australia doesn't have a tipping culture. If you were good at what you did, you got your due.
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The bottom line is we have to be responsible in our behaviour while living in foreign nations, and stand up for our rights when we know they are being violated.

Mohan Murjani, Murjani Group

I've always believed in open trade. I am not in favour of restrictions or caps on single brand retailers.

If a brand like Gucci wants to own a 100% share in India, they should be allowed to do so. A 49% or 51% should be reserved for multi-brands.

There is no reason why international brands such as these should be up against hurdles.

Their presence won't hurt India. In fact, it might just ensure that Indian duties will align with international standards.

Sanjay Kapoor, MD Genesis Luxury (includes Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Canali, Aigner, Just Cavalli)

I'd like to see the rationalisation of import duties. Currently, the process is fairly complicated and reductions in import duties will ensure that Indians who shop overseas for brands, will begin shopping at home.

International brands are here to stay, so why not give consumers an incentive to spend their money in India, and boost the economy?

Santosh Desai, CEO & MD Future Brands

I don't think we should be asking if the Indian government can do more? The real question we should be asking is, how serious are international brands about India?

There isu00a0 a schism between talk and action. I'd like to see international luxury brands take more aggressive initiative in terms of involving Indian consumers in their strategies, rather than indulge in plain monetary investment.

Ashishu00a0N Soni, fashion designer and participant at New York Fashion Week

The Government should design schemes to help designers like myself in the international activities we engage in, such as participating at foreign fashion weeks and trade shows.

Events like these require fancy PR budgets to strengthen the brand building exercise. Other developing countries support their designers financially.

If the Indian government can help promising designers with 50% monetary grants, that would give us a shot in the arm.u00a0

Kishor Bajaj, Chairman Badasaab Group, exclusive franchisee Brioni India

With the Left out of the picture, we are gung-ho about this pro-investment government. Taxation is a double-edged sword.

It'd help if the octroi was lowered and there was clarity in the existing VAT. Currently, we have to pay 12% tax on accessories and 4% on garments; the disparity makes no sense.
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In Mumbai, we have to pay 4% octroi-plus difference, while in Delhi, we don't. And so, we end up absorbing those costs since we are keen to keep prices in Mumbai at par with those in our Delhi boutique.u00a0u00a0

Rajesh Pratap Singh, fashion designer and a regular participant at Paris Fashion Week

We need to recognise fashion as an industry with great potential. Designers who participate at international events must be supported.
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It helps strengthen the reach and acceptance of Indian fashion. The opportunity is greater now than ever, and the moment must be seized. India is at a position of advantage.

A forum where easier funding for expansion, and working capital is made accessible through the banking sector, is desperately needed.

SPOTTED! Kanye West Shutters at Colaba Causeway

"Stronger (his superhit song from his third album Graduation) is also a fashion statement. It's for people like us, who dress fresh and like fly sh*t.

And if you don't like the song, than more than (sic) likely you don't know how to dress either," said Kanye West.

The American rapper admits to having searched the Parisian stores for these Shutter-Stronger glares for over three months.

Luckily, the Mumbai shopper has to just make a trip to Colaba Causeway to pick up these blinders in a shade of your choice.

Available in pop colours for Rs 140.
At: Stall outside Leopold Cafe, Colaba.
Statutory warning: You can't see a thing through these, so accidents are more than possible.

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