Last month, father of tiramisu Ado Campeol died at 93. Here’s looking at what made it a much-loved Italian dessert. And a curation of where to try it in Mumbai
Sorrentina’s tiramisu is served directly from their bulk trays.
No matter the cuisine, there’s always a tiramisu on most restaurant menus in the city. Like the evergreen chocolate brownie, the tiramisu too has earned its place in our list of favourite orders. On October 30, Italians mourned the demise of 93-year-old Ado Campeol, the father of the tiramisu. And this writer, like so many fans, decided to do some digging about what makes this dessert a classic.
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Bread Bar’s version with whipped cream
It is the coffee element that makes tiramisu universally loved, explains Roberto Zorzoli, head chef of Romano’s at JW Marriott Sahar. “This is one ingredient that is known to everyone, globally. This, and the fact that the dessert is simple to prepare, make it well accepted.”
Lotus Biscoff tiramisu by Jamjar Diner
Mascarpone is easy to make, and every local cheese maker has nailed it. “Mascarpone is sourced from Veneto in north Italy, which is also known for other rich cheeses like Parmesan and gorgonzola. Another dessert, Zuppa Anglais, is actually a forerunner of sorts for tiramisu. This dessert is made using coffee, mascarpone cheese and cherry liqueur which is not available easily.”
Smoke House Deli’s version uses in-house coffee cream and dust
One factor that upsets Zorzoli is the use of whipped cream. “A classic tiramisu is heavy on the palate but light on the stomach. Whipped cream has the reverse effect. The perfect tiramisu is one that uses good ingredients, especially coffee. The lady’s finger or savoiardi [a biscuit] is available in the market but one can make it at home too. At Romano’s, we make it without alcohol so that everyone can have it,” he assures.
Roberto Zorzoli
Chef owner of Commis Station (CS) Divesh Aswani says the dessert has slowly taken over the world for its simplicity and balance of flavours. “My idea of a perfect tiramisu is creamy mascarpone, bitter coffee, generously spiked with alcohol and a generous dusting of unsweetened cocoa — the magical ingredient that can make or break your tiramisu,” says Aswani.
CS tiramisu uses rum, brandy and Dutch cocoa sourced from Kerala; Divesh Aswani (right).
At Commis Station, he serves it in 2.5 kg containers. “We’ve swapped out the classic savoiardi with a genoise sponge that’s cut thin to create the perfect cream and biscuit balance. We also spike our coffee with a mix of rum and brandy, to make up for the lack of Marsala wine. We also use a Dutch cocoa sourced from Kerala that gives our signature CS tiramisu the aroma and flavour balance.”
Just Deserts
. Try this Lotus biscoff version that combines the biscoff biscuit, cocoa and coffee.
At Jamjar Diner, Andheri West and Bandra West. Timing 9 am to 12 am Call 9619000365 Cost Rs 380
. Made with espresso-dipped savoiardi and mascarpone, this tiramisu is served straight from the bulk tray.
At Sorrentina, Foodhall, Linking Road, Santacruz. Timing 11 am to 4 pm Call 9136913747 Cost Rs 456
. This indulgent version is made with Impresario’s in-house coffee cream and coffee dust from their own blend.
At Smoke House Deli, Pali Hill, BKC, Colaba and Lower Parel. Timing 9 am to 10 pm Call 24933222 Cost Rs 210
. The creamy version has whipped cream, rich mascarpone and coffee liqueur.
At The Bread Bar, Deonar Village Road. Timing 9.30 am to 8 pm Call 08928482554 Cost Rs 200
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