The many flavours of Dussehra

On the auspicious day, we speak to home chefs from different communities who share with us what dish the festival is incomplete without in their homes

Vijayadashami, also known as Dasahara, Dasara, Dashain, Dashami, and Dusshera, is a festival that is celebrated nation-wide, but like its many names, it is also observed in varied ways across regions. While for most, the festival is significant because it marks the end of Ramleela and Lord Ram's victory over Ravana, over the years, it has come to signify different things for different communities — a season of good harvest for some, the victory of good over evil for some, and for some, it's simply merry-making. We speak with four Mumbai-based home chefs from different communities, in a bid to understand how these cultural nuances and traditions have transcended into their respective kitchens.

The Gujju way

Lapsi

"Buying gold is tradition among Gujaratis during Dussehra," says Jyoti Vora, adding, "We also prepare a special nine-course meal for the deities which is consumed by us as well to break the fast."

Lapsi, a sweet dish made with broken wheat, ghee, sugar and dried fruits, is a special dessert during the festival that is made in Gujarati homes.

Dashami bounty

Kheer

For the Malwani community, agriculture is of great importance, so the community worships tools that help with farming. "Freshly-harvested rice is very sacred," Snehal Rawool explains.

For the community, the simple dessert of kheer, made with milk, sugar and ground rice is a must-have on the special day, the home chef says.

Mangalorean dashami

Madgane

Homechef Prabha Kini tells us that among Mangaloreans, food is a lavish affair on the tenth day, as most communities observe a fast leading up to Dussehra.

"Khotto, which is idli batter steamed in jackfruit leaf baskets, is special on Vijayadashami. Another important part of the feast is dessert. Madgane, made with ground chana daal, jaggery and coconut milk, is a popular one," Kini tells us.

Kachori and kaddu ki sabzi

Benarsi Dussehra

In the days leading up to Dussehra, the food is primarily phalahari or fasting food, home chef Veera Dikshit explains. For her, Dussehra brings back fond memories of her grandmother making pooris, and chawaal wali kheer — sumptuous delicacies made as a consolation for the nine-day-long fast.

Veera Dikshit

Kadhi chawal and kachori and kaddu (pumpkin) ki sabzi are festival favourites for the community, the home chef shares. 

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