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Roll with the times

Updated on: 01 March,2022 09:48 AM IST  |  Mumbai
Sukanya Datta |

Butter chicken specialist chef Saransh Goila’s latest offering is a mixed bag that doesn’t come cheap

Roll with the times

Malai tikka soya chaap roll. Pics/Rane Ashish

Recess bell, a two-deck stainless steel dabba, compact, hot rolls wrapped with a side of ketchup, and an army of hands racing to devour them. It remains a mystery how our mother managed to fashion the most unappealing items (read: soybean and sabzi) into deceivingly appetising and chatpata rolls that made for a fun, wholesome satiation. Cut to 2022, we hear that butter chicken expert chef Saransh Goila, along with Vivek Sahani, is packing whole meals into rolls with his newly launched delivery venture, Bambai Meal Rolls. We’re intrigued — like our school dabba rolls, will it be the answer to our on-the-go meal plans now that we’re back to the office grind? Or will it fall flat on its face, with the fillings a mess even before you open the package?


Ghee roast paneer roll
Ghee roast paneer roll


We’re relieved to spot that the rolls, at almost 400 g each, reach us from their Bandra kitchen with zero spillovers; the ends are tightly tucked in. Each roll comprises a vegetable or meat with a side of rice, yoghurt, pickle, and salad. To order, one must choose from a range of desi options like Andhra gongura, Chettinad masala, tomato thokku, Bombay tawa and the like, the choice of protein (paneer, soya chaap, tandoori aloo, mutton, chicken, egg), bread (whether refined flour, whole flour or spinach), grains (rice or millet), and add-ons. In this day and age of healthy snacking, we would have preferred to see more multi-grain and non-wheat options.  


Mutton seekh roll
Mutton seekh roll

Our first bite is a creamy soya chaap-based malai tikka (Rs 350 onwards) that is served with a mildly spicy green chutney; we recommend it if, like us, you’re looking to fix your equation with soybean. The ghee roast paneer roll (Rs 350 onwards), however, feels more like a mish-mash of paneer, pickles and rice than the rich, robust and fragrant Mangalorean gravy we’ve polished off at our favourite coastal eateries.

In most cases, the rolls hold their own without falling apart, save the Andhra gongura chicken (Rs 350 onwards); the millets  in it (additional Rs 15) disintegrate from the roll after a few bites. The mutton seekh (Rs 420 onwards) although pleasant and smoky, is overpriced, and too cheesy. The ring-shaped chips that accompany the rolls make for masaledaar sides. Tip: munch on these after you finish your roll, which can weigh you down, unlike the dabba rolls we once raced to finish.

Log on to: bambaimealrolls.dotpe.in/order

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