A banana leaf heaving with a mound of rice, fragrant curries, coconut-flecked gravies - the Onasadhya is the highlight of Onam, the 10-day summer harvest festival celebrated by Malayalis across the world
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A banana leaf heaving with a mound of rice, fragrant curries, coconut-flecked gravies - the Onasadhya is the highlight of Onam, the 10-day summer harvest festival celebrated by Malayalis across the world.
Since we're no experts on the subject, we sought out someone who was. And who better to tell us what goes into the onasadhya than someone who has been making it for years? Belapur resident Bina Menon was more than happy to decode the components of the sadhya for us.
"To begin with, the banana leaf is always placed with its narrow side facing the left. While serving, vegetables in thick gravies are placed on the top right-hand side. The centre is reserved for rice and its accompaniments, and the least used items, like the pickle and chips, go on the left," she explains.
Preparing a traditional onasadhya is a time-consuming task. To make the process a more efficient one, families use a system akin to a potluck. "Women from different households cook one dish each, and then come together to serve the meal to guests," says Menon.
OLAN/STEW
Either of the two is served, depending on the family's preference. While both olan and stew have a coconut milk base, olan stars ash gourd and red beans. Stew, meanwhile, could contain a mix of vegetables including onions and potatoes. Spices such as cinnamon and cardamom are used in southern Kerala to give it a distinct aroma.
INJI THAYIR
This item has yoghurt flavoured with ginger, green chilli, and curry leaves. The belief is that having this is akin to having 104 dishes, making it an essential part of the sadhya
PACHADI
A mild, cooling side dish that can be made with a variety of fruits and veggies. Try it with vellarikka (Madras cucumber), or, for a sweet-and-sour flavour, with pineapple.
ERISSERY
Pumpkin and pulses make their way into this side dish, which is prepared using ground coconut paste, and seasoned with roasted coconut.
THORAN
Made with a vegetable of your choice - usually cabbage or beans - this dry dish makes heavy use of grated coconut.
AVIAL
A dish featuring long strips of ash gourd, beans, raw banana, drumstick, yam and other vegetables.
KAALAN
This curd-and-coconut-based dish usually features a tuber like yam. The gravy is thick, and tangier than avial.
KARI
The top left-hand corner is reserved for pickles and chutneys. Featured here are the vadukapuli naranga kari (made using a variety of large lemons), kadumanga kari (using tiny, raw mangoes) and puli inji (tamarind and ginger chutney).
SHARKARA UPPERI, KAAYA VARUTHATH, CHENA/CHAKKA UPPERI, AND PAPPADAM
This section of the banana leaf stars all the crunchy items. There is the familiar kaaya varuthath (banana chips), as well as chips made of either chena (yam) or chakka (jackfruit). Sharkara upperi, meanwhile, is nothing but jaggery-coated banana chips. And, of course, no meal is complete without some light-as-air pappadam (papad).
PARIPPU, SAMBHAR, RASAM AND MORU
These three are served in order, course by course. The parippu (lentils) is served first, with a dollop of ghee on the side, followed by the sambhar. The soup-like, tamarind-flavoured rasam is poured next, and the cooling moru (buttermilk) comes last, to help you wash down the meal.
PRADHAMAN
This is a traditional term for payasam. Two types are served as part of the sadhya - paal ada (above), and pazham (below). The former is made with rice and milk, while the latter - prepared with jaggery, coconut milk and banana - is more decadent.
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