In a tree-lined lane in Mahim, where the charm of old Bombay lingers, housed in an old industrial estate surrounded by residential buildings, pastry chef Heena Punwani and her team at Maska Bakery are quietly baking a storm. Last year for Christmas, we had reached out to Dina Weber, a German baker who runs a small artisanal bakery, SAPA Sourdough and Pastry, in Mysore, focusing on perfecting the art of sourdough fermented bread and classic French and German patisserie. She sent us her signature stollen; it was the best we’ve had in India, and we’ve wanted to meet her in person ever since. The good news is that Weber is collaborating with Maska Bakery to showcase her signature baked goods for three days. Cassis lime doughnut Following Maska’s successful takeover at SAPA Bakery in July this year, this inter-city collaboration ensures the flavours come full circle. Weber says, “We love sharing our kitchen and partnering with other kitchens. It’s a great way to build community, make lasting friendships, and learn more about different cities and how other kitchens operate. Most of all, it is an incredible feeling to share our food with people across India whenever possible.” Before she opened Maska Bakery in December last year, Punwani had travelled around India, meeting pastry chefs she admired. That’s how she met Weber in Mysore. Their baking philosophies aligned perfectly. “We both love indulgent, authentic and high-quality products while supporting a healthy work culture,” reveals Weber. Punwani adds, “The similarities in our philosophies immediately struck me — contemporary desserts made with the best techniques and ingredients, which hit the spot, made in a happy and positive kitchen. When Maska Bakery opened, Dina visited us, and we started talking about jamming together over an idea. Thus, Maska Bakery X SAPA Sourdough and Pastry Back2Back Kitchen Takeover emerged. Dina’s desserts are a nod to her German heritage, and we at Maska create desserts that salute old Bombay — so, it will be fun to see the two come together.” Heena Punwani and Dina Weber Weber shares how those elements are woven into the menu in small and big ways. “Sometimes, it’s a single ingredient I love from home, like asparagus, which we mix with new flavours like miso in a Danish. Or rhubarb paired with buckwheat and chocolate in a tart. Other times, I like to recreate an entire cake, like the peach oma torte. ‘Oma’ means grandmother [in German], and it is based on the old-school cakes that my grandmother would bake. At family celebrations — whether baptisms, funerals, or weddings — it’s tradition for neighbours, aunts, and grandmothers to contribute a torte [a cream-layered cake] for festive gatherings. The pretzel sausage roll, for instance, combines two German favourites into one snack. We love using less commonly used flavours, and showcasing how beautiful they can be. Rhubarb is a hearty vegetable, and it’s deliciously tangy. We also have a Sunday surprise dessert with a rare seed that is used to make praline. Also, ingredients like Earl Grey tea are good.” Her favourites on the menu are hazelnut rhubarb and buckwheat tart. Weber is aware of her diverse culinary background and ensures that her bakery continues to push boundaries while staying true to its roots. “The thread that passes through all that we create is to not overcomplicate things: if the ingredients and techniques are solid, the product will be great. When you use that as a base, you can add Indian ingredients, French techniques, or German flavours, and that ethos will hold it together. It keeps us creative and playful too. I am not into food trends or social media trends that are overdone and short-lived. Consistency and quality have made us stand out for four years in today’s world, and we will continue this approach. We are excited that our team is getting increasingly solid and skilled to lead. Building a team like this takes time, but we are gradually readying to expand; even though we haven’t finalised the exact concept in the baking space yet.” From the SAPA menu, Punwani is most excited about the sausage pretzel roll with its German bratwurst filling and the cassis lime doughnuts. “They make some of the best doughnuts I’ve tasted. From the Maska menu, the items that hold a special place in my heart are the Kejriwal babka and the revenge black forest cake because of their wink to old Bombay menu items.” ON October 4 to 6, 11 am to 8 pmAT Maska Bakery, ground floor, Mogul Lane, inside Nav Vivek Industrial Premises, New Dinkar Co Operative Housing Society, Mahim West.CALL 8591162752 (to order)
04 October,2024 09:23 AM IST | Mumbai | Nasrin Modak SiddiqiAfter successful collaborations with popular Indian restaurants, Amrit Rajaratnam, founder of Ropewalk at the iconic Galle Fort Hotel in Sri Lanka, felt it was time to bring his restaurant’s unique culinary essence to India. “Ishaara is the perfect fit for our first move outside Sri Lanka because they have the same passion for food and creativity. Plus, Mumbai’s energy is just too good to resist,” says Rajaratnam. Banana leaf wrapped baked white fish and Arrack chocolate biscuit pudding The weekend pop-up that kicks off today has a bold Sri Lanka menu. Expect everything from iconic seafood dishes to deep, flavourful curries and zesty sambols. “We wanted this menu to feel like a mini road trip across Sri Lanka,” Rajaratnam adds. Take the Jaffna kool, a seafood broth from the northern coast, built on tamarind, coconut milk, and a spice mix that’ll hit you with all the right flavours. “It’s comfort food with a tangy twist that Indian taste buds will love,” assures Rajaratnam. The banana leaf-wrapped baked white fish marinated in chilli, garlic, and lime has an earthy aroma and juicy, melt-in-your-mouth texture. Then there’s the grilled skewers — a smoky, spice-packed crowd-pleaser inspired by the island’s multicultural influences, combining spices like cumin, paprika, and cinnamon. Devilled chicken skewers and Gunpowder “It’s a Sri Lankan answer to India’s tandoori obsession,” shares Rajaratnam, adding, “Sri Lankan cuisine celebrates bold flavours and vibrant ingredients shaped by unique spices and techniques. While both Sri Lanka and India love spices, their geography and climate differ. For example, Ceylon cinnamon, native to Sri Lanka, is more delicate and fragrant than India’s cassia cinnamon. Another highlight is kalu pol, a smoky, earthy blackened coconut powder, traditionally used in lamb curry.” For dessert, don’t miss the arrack chocolate biscuit pudding — a childhood favourite in Sri Lanka with a boozy, grown-up spin. It’s the only taste of arrack you’ll get this time (customs restrictions on import), but it’s totally worth it! The arrack they use is sourced and made in Sri Lanka through a traditional process of distilling fermented coconut sap — its smooth, slightly sweet, and woody flavour adds a sophisticated twist to desserts. Amrit Rajaratnam and Prashant Issar Ropewalk brings the same craft cocktail energy in drinks with bold new creations. One highlight is gunpowder (R630); a fiery spice mix of chilli, Maldivian fish, and salt that adds umami and heat to the drink. “With India’s love for spiced condiments, we expect gunpowder to resonate with spice lovers,” says Rajaratnam. Regarding the collaboration, Prashant Issar, director of Bellona Hospitality Services, says, “We aim to offer innovative, authentic experiences. Ropewalk’s rich Sri Lankan culinary heritage, rooted in Galle, was a perfect fit. This pop-up is not just about food but a deep dive into Sri Lankan culture with a multi-sensory experience, blending history, storytelling, and authentic flavours. Both teams have worked seamlessly. We’ve sourced ingredients, recreated traditional recipes, and perfected flavours, resulting in a menu honouring Ropewalk’s heritage while offering a fresh take for Indian tastes.” ON September 27 to 29AT Ishaara, Phoenix Palladium, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel.CALL 8657531988 COST Rs 1,850 (Sri Lankan set menu without alcohol)
27 September,2024 09:12 AM IST | Mumbai | Nasrin Modak SiddiqiSpiced with tradition There is nothing that defines Chettinad roots like a mild burn on the palate. For the brave, this Fort establishment serves a fiery lobster Chettinad, complete with a traditional spice mix.AT Trishna, Kala Ghoda, Fort. CALL 2222703213COST Rs 2,950 An Italian delight This delicate angel hair pasta tossed in buttery court bouillon emulsion, topped with some succulent lobster is a seafood lover’s dream. Forget your calorie counter before trying this lobster capellini.AT Neuma, near Regal Cinema, Colaba. CALL 7031483333COST Rs 1,450 Posh decadence If you like your food well dressed, then this one might impress you. The decadent lobster fra Rothschild at this Colaba landmark comes with a bow tie to go.AT The Table, Kalapesi Trust Building, Apollo Bunder, Colaba.CALL 7045111880COST Rs 1,600 Macau-style luxury Experience the indulgent flavours of lobster thermidor, inspired by Macau’s culinary heritage. The succulent meat is nestled in a rich coconut cream sauce, enhanced by nutty parmesan cheese and aromatic white truffle oil.AT Bastian, Kamal Building, New Linking Road, Bandra West.CALL 2250333555LOG ON TO bastianhospitality.comCOST Rs 2,200 A golden signature With a fiery chilli oyster sauce and decadent, buttery lobster chucks, the lobster butter chilli oyster is a firm favourite with regulars and deservedly so. This one is for the luxurious palate.AT Golden Dragon, Taj Mahal Palace Mumbai, Apollo Bunder, Colaba. CALL 2266653296COST Rs 3,300 Kerala delight Savour the bold flavours of lobster pollichathu, a traditional Kerala dish, featuring marinated lobster grilled in aromatic banana leaves. Infused with a blend of spices, the recipe combines tender lobster with rich spices to celebrate the state’s culinary heritage.AT Mahesh Lunch Home, Juhu Tara Road, Santacruz West. CALL 9004655554COST Rs 2,000 Taste of the Far East Old timers will be familiar with the sizzle that accompanies this grilled crustacean platter. The sautéed greens on the side only add a touch of colour to the drama of the lobster teppanyaki.AT China Garden, Om Chambers, August Kranti Marg, Kemps Corner.CALL 7900085881COST Rs 875 Crystal-clear crunch For a crunchy bite, try the crystal lobster; a tender stir-fried lobster in a hot chilli and ginger-flavoured clear sauce. Served on a refreshing bed of crisp lettuce and crunchy bean sprouts, this dish balances the lobster’s sweetness with a zesty kick.AT Something’s Fishy, B, Tunga International Hotel, 11, MIDC Central Road, Andheri East.CALL 2261446464LOG ON TO tungahotels.com/theinternationalCOST Rs 2,175 Also eat it here >>Saboot lobsterAT Kebabs and Kurries, ITC Grand Central, Parel.COST R3,850 onwards >>Lobster thermidorAT Amazonia, BKC.COST Rs 1,495 >>Lobster in Singapore chilli sauceAT The Oriental Blossom, Hotel Marine Plaza, Marine Drive.CALL 7045941315COST Rs 2,400 onwards Did you know?In 2014, US senators Angus King and Susan Collins of Maine drafted a joint resolution to anoint September 25 as Lobster Day to coincide with the peak of the season harvest.
25 September,2024 09:15 AM IST | Mumbai | Shriram Iyengar | Anisha ShrivastavaIf your meals are punctuated by lingering heaviness and a bloated sensation in your abdomen, take heart in the fact that you’re not alone. According to a 2021 survey, nearly 56 per cent of Indians suffer from digestive health problems, including bloating after meals. And while it’s easy to pass off this bloating as a ‘food baby’, the accompanying discomfort is often not as easy to ignore. The main suspects “Bloating is multifactorial, with no single cause but a range of contributing factors. Fluid retention, often linked to poor gut health, is a key element. Occasional bloating after eating out or consuming the wrong foods is common, but frequent or persistent bloating signals the need to address your gut health,” notes Luke Coutinho, an integrative lifestyle expert. He and Riya Desai, a senior dietician at Wockhardt Hospitals in Mira Road list out the following primary causes: A high fibre-based diet is key to good gut health >> Eating too much or too quickly: The post-meal bloat in particular may result from overeating or insufficient chewing, causing gas to build up in the body as these foods are processed. Further, eating extremely large meals can slow down digestion, which contributes to bloating. Eating too quickly or swallowing air while consuming food can trap excess air in the digestive system, exacerbating bloating. >> Gassy concerns: Flatulence-inducing foods such as beans, carbonated drinks, or poorly cooked cruciferous vegetables can cause bloating, especially in individuals with compromised digestion. Foods high in fibre or complex carbohydrates such as whole grains and legumes can also cause gas, as they are fermented by bacteria in the gut. >> Packaged guilt: Processed foods have a high sodium content, which can lead the body to retain water to maintain its sodium balance. The presence of sugars in these foods spikes insulin, further promoting ater retention. >> Food sensitivities: If your body lacks the enzyme lactase, it cannot properly digest lactose found in dairy. This leads to gas, bloating, and diarrhoea. Some people find it difficult to digest gluten, a protein in wheat, rye and barley, which can also cause bloating and discomfort. >> Constipation and dehydration: When stool builds up in the intestines, it can cause feelings of fullness and bloating. Sluggish bowel movements lead to increased gas production and abdominal discomfort. Consuming too little water can also contribute to fluid retention. Herbs like parsley, coriander, dandelion extract and hibiscus are natural diuretics and can be effective measures against bloating >> Poor gut health: Enzyme deficiencies can contribute to poor gut health, while gut dysbiosis, caused by factors such as medication, stress, or excess sugar and alcohol intake further disrupts digestive balance. Floral fix Hibiscus tea, made from the hibiscus flower (also known as Jamaica rose or hibiscus sabdariffa) is being suggested as an easy but effective solution to beat the bloat. The concoction, referred to as Jamaican tea, can be consumed either hot or cold, and is purported to have digestive benefits. “Parsley, coriander, hibiscus, dandelion extract, garlic and bell peppers serve as effective natural diuretics, helping to reduce water retention and bloating. Hibiscus tea is recommended for its potential to aid digestion and reduce bloating. It acts as a natural diuretic, helping the body eliminate excess water and combat bloating related to water retention. Luke Coutinho and Riya Desai Additionally, its mild laxative properties may help those experiencing constipation-related bloating” explains Coutinho. Dr Harsh Seth, consultant laparoscopic gastrointestinal surgeon at Wockhardt Hospitals in Mumbai Central, adds that hibiscus tea relaxes the muscles of the digestive tract, reducing cramps and discomfort. The tea also has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties that further support gut health by easing mild digestive irritations. While these benefits are promising, Desai cautions that the effects may vary. “While hibiscus tea may help, it is not a guaranteed solution for everyone,” she advises. Bloat-free lifestyle To reduce bloating and support gut health, Dr Seth recommends eating smaller portions and eating slowly, while avoiding talking during meals to limit air swallowing. “Stay hydrated and gradually increase your fibre intake to prevent gas build-up. Avoid carbonated drinks and chewing gum, which can cause you to swallow more air,” he says. Including probiotics from yogurt or supplements can help balance gut bacteria and aid digestion. Opt for low-fat meals and have dinner earlier to allow for better digestion before bedtime. Desai also advocates avoiding artificial sweeteners as sorbitol and other sugar alcohols found in sugar-free foods can cause gas and bloating. Coutinho offers a more structured approach, to ensure optimal digestion and metabolic health. Dr Harsh Seth >> Pre-meal: Thirty minutes before eating, consume a tablespoon of apple cider vinegar in water to aid digestion and reduce acidity. >> During the meal: >> First, eat vegetables: Begin with raw vegetables such as cucumbers and carrots, followed by cooked vegetables. This slows down the absorption of carbohydrates and promotes better digestion. >> Then, proteins and fats: Depending on your diet, consume non-GMO tofu, pulses, or lean meats for protein, paired with healthy fats. >> Lastly, carbohydrates: Conclude your meal with grains such as rotis, millet or potatoes. >> Post-meal: After eating, sit in Vajrasana for four-five minutes, or take a slow walk for 10 minutes to further aid digestion and prevent bloating. An indie upgrade If sourcing hibiscus tea is too much of an effort, Coutinho offers an alternative that is just as effective. Pic Courtesy/Instagram Ingredients>> 1 tbsp cumin (jeera)>> 1 tbsp fennel (saunf)>> 1 tsp bishop’s weed (ajwain)>> 100 ml water Method: Combine ingredients in water and boil until the water reduces by half. Let it cool. Strain, and sip.
23 September,2024 09:05 AM IST | Mumbai | Anindita PaulVersova is all the rage for street food at the moment. Pav bhaji, momo and ramen stalls pepper the JP Road circle. It is our second visit to the neighbourhood to sample Rongmit, a food cart set up by actors Priya Lepcha from Darjeeling and Rohit Kandal from Punjab. The duo set up the stall last month, after deciding to make the most of their lean months in the industry. On our first visit, the stall is packed, and there is a 45-minute-long wait at 9 pm to even place an order. Undaunted, we go back to find out what the fuss is all about. We arrive to the ambient sound of the rustic dhol at a Ganpati procession nearby. Jhoul momos At 7 pm, we are early enough to beat the evening crowd. The duo has hired a street-food vending cart and marked a prep station where they assemble ramen, steam fresh momos and plate the food. Plastic table and stools are neatly placed on the road. We begin with vegetarian jhoul momo (RS 100) that comes in a thick sesame and peanut sauce. It is a creamier paste as compared to other jhoul momos we have had before, where the momos often come in a watery broth. We notice that the momo wrappers are skilfully folded and hold a generous amount of the filling; and the nutty sauce cushions the punch of the chilli sauce well. The spicy chicken ramen bowl (R160) looks pretty and colourful with its purple cabbage, carrots, spinach, corn, mushrooms, two boiled eggs and a fiery broth made of Darjeeling chillies. Small and round in size, they are one of the fiercest chillies in the world. Naturally, we are offered the choice between the spicy and the medium spicy version. The spicy version sets our palate on fire. It is worth it. Our partner in crime finishes the bowl whilst sporting a sweaty brow and a runny nose. Extrovert flavours play an important role in providing a surround-sound taste ambiance when it comes to roadside snacking. The quality of ingredients in the menu deserves a mention. The fried chicken is tender and the veggies hold their crunch between our bites. Customers gather at the stall Drinks are not available on our visit as the stall does not have ice yet. Even the kowri (shell-shaped noodles) bowl is absent from the menu on the day of our visit. In a chat with Kandal later, we learn that the duo are actors and have been part of an unreleased web series and have also starred in a couple of ads. The ramen cart is more of a seasonal venture. “In the rainy season, we usually have no work, so we wanted to generate a side income as neither of us takes any money from home. Priya has studied hotel management, and we decided to give this a shot. In our line, there is a lot of struggle, and getting that one good break takes its time. We’re only a month old, and have been overwhelmed with the response,” says Kandal. Priya Lepcha and Rohit Kandal at the stall. Pics/Shadab Khan We ask the duo on their recommendation, and they suggest the good old chicken momo (Rs 50; half plate). It comes with sesame chutney and red chutney which is just paste made from Darjeeling chillies. The dish hits the right notes. We leave happy, knowing there’s one more on-the-go spot in Andheri to stop by when the stomach rumbles. AT Rongmit, opposite Third Wave, JP Road, Versova.TIME 6 pm to 9 pm CALL 998866031 Rongmit didn’t know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals
12 September,2024 09:42 AM IST | Mumbai | Phorum PandyaFood: Nostalgic Ambiance: SimpleService: Fast Cost: ReasonableVerdict: 2/4 The legendary Mani’s Lunch Home, established in 1937, has a fresh new address in Chembur. While the legacy of the franchise spans decades, this writer will always remember it as the eatery that would sate a hungry college student’s search for affordable, delicious food in Matunga. When we hear of them opening a new space in Chembur, we decide to pay a visit for nostalgia’s sake. We drop by on a Friday afternoon, and are greeted by an open layout that felt airy. Unlike the cosier set-ups in Matunga and Sion, the Chembur outlet is noticeably larger with ample seating. The minimalist, no-frills style remains, but the separation of the kitchen from the serving area ensures a quieter dining experience. In a conversation with co-owner and family member Rimani Iyer, we learn that expanding the space was the primary goal behind the new outlet. The wall features a signature detail found in most Udipi restaurants, the auspicious nettipattam hanging which symbolises peace and positivity. Unlike its Matunga counterpart, this eatery is all business, and even has a menu card on offer. Although, we notice a slight uptick in price as well. The interiors of the new space are simple and nostalgic We called for the idli and vada combo (Rs 70) and Mani’s mooli chutney dosa with butter (Rs 130) and a Mysore pak (Rs 40). While the idli could have been warmer, it has the classic tang. We would have preferred it to be a little less dense. As we are promised, the vadas were piping hot and crisp. The sambar is warm and comforting with tender slices of onions and tomatoes adding a subtle sweetness to the dish. The chutney is mild and fresh. It is nice to note that some things never change, like the staff using sagdan to promptly refill our sambhar and chutney. However, Matunga regulars might note the absence of the classic tomato-onion chutney on the menu. Next up was the Mani’s mooli chutney dosa which comes lathered with red chutney dosa and butter. The dosa was perfectly thin and crispy. It comes with a generous spread of spicy chutney with its subtle sweet aftertaste, tempered with mustard seeds and curry leaves. Though we would have preferred the classic benne, the dollop of Amul butter adds a rich texture to the dosa. Thankfully, the franchise seems blissfully unaware of shrinkflation. We see a neighbouring table order a sada dosa that is as huge as it was crisp. The Mysore pak melts in our mouth, and is the perfect ending to a filling experience. We would like them to warm it up slightly before serving next time. As always, the tables were wiped down instantly and the service was polite and quick. The menu also boasts a wide variety of classics, tiffin-style meals, daily specials and more. The restaurant has jumped on the trendy dosa bandwagon and introduced the fusion jini dosa for the experimental crowd. For the health-conscious foodie, they offer options like kara, ragi, and kambhu (pearl millet) dosas. For a home-style touch, patrons can also try their amma-style dosai, inspired by an authentic Iyer household recipe. Fair to say, this new outlet has successfully carried forward the legacy of Mani’s, preserving the authentic taste and quality that makes it a crowd favorite. Mani’s Lunch Home AT Ground floor, Garodia Market, DK Sandu Marg, near Sai Baba Mandir, opposite Savla Hospital, Chembur Gaothan, Chembur East. CALL 9137690350 COST Rs 200 for two 4/4 Exceptional, 3/4 Excellent, 2/4 very Good, 1/4 Good, 0/4 Average. Mani’s Lunch Home didn’t know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals
10 September,2024 09:05 AM IST | Mumbai | Kanisha SoftaFood: IndulgentService: QuickCost: ExpensiveVerdict: 1/4 Pie-lovers in the city have a new address to head to. This one’s on St Andrew’s Road in Bandra West. Phat Fillings is a delivery kitchen that aims to become the go-to spot for late-night comfort food to share with your friends and family. This venture, launched by Vidit Aren, ex-chef at Soufflé S’il Vous Plaît, along with his long-time friend Xerxes Bhathena, was born out of their shared passion for gluttony. Their inspiration, we learnt later after a quick chat with the duo, struck them on a drunken night together, when they found themselves craving pies, a comfort food rarely found in Mumbai. We decided to sample their offerings on a Saturday afternoon. The pies arrived after a 45 minute commute from their delivery kitchen fresh and hot. It was carefully secured in packaging designed with individual sections for each pie. The box came with clear reheating instructions. However, the common packaging for both vegetarian and meat pies was a glitch for us, particularly for those who prefer clear separate sections for their options. Banoffee pie The duo recommended ditching the fork and knife and eating the pies with both hands. We dug into the mini pulled pork and chorizo pie, the mini farmer’s pick pie, and the banoffee pie. The pulled pork and chorizo pie (R375) delivered a taste of Goan goodness, with tender pork slow-cooked for 12 hours and combined with Goan chorizo, topped with baked sweet potatoes. The pork, while tender, could have been more textured and pulled, as it tasted more like minced meat coated in a slightly sweet sauce. The chorizo, however, was cooked to perfection, adding a smoky touch that complemented the pie. The sweet potatoes, though a surprising addition, further enhanced the pie’s unwanted sweetness. We would have preferred a tangier, slightly spicier pie. The mini farmers pick pie (R350) held its freshness well despite sitting in the box for hours and being reheated. It was a wholesome mix but could have been more flavourful. It didn’t stand out and felt like an afterthought after curating the meat pies. The pies were served with a side of pickled vegetables and hot sauce. Customers can upgrade their pies with One True Pairing (OTP) truffle hot sauce, gravy, garlic confit mashed potatoes, sautéed vegetables, and other add-ons at an extra charge. The savoury pies (left) come in a common box. Pics/Ashish Raje The crust across all pies was a standout feature — perfectly crisp and flaky, baked to a golden brown that remained fresh and crisp even after reheating. The banoffee pie is a family recipe from Bhathena’s home kitchen. The pie also survived the jostling and chaos of our local train commute back home and emerged unscathed from the box. The biscuit crust was buttery and crisp. The caramel was smooth and rich, and had a slight hint of salt further enhancing the sweetness of the pie. The bananas were perfectly ripe and layered with a dollop of whipped cream on top. Each bite offered a blend of textured and flavours making it a truly indulgent treat. In addition to the pies we sampled, the cloud kitchen boasts a menu with options with chicken, lamb, pork, beef, and a variety of vegetables. Signature choices include the classic roast chicken pie, braised lamb, and the indulgent buff mince with smoked cheese. The duo makes sure the vegetarians aren’t left out; there are offerings like the truffle mushroom or spinach, ricotta, and corn pies. They also serve savoury galettes. Those with a sweet tooth, can indulge in options like the rich chocolate sea salt pie with whipped mascarpone and the classic apple pie. While the flavours we tried could have used a little more oomph, Phat Fillings deserves a shout-out for its unique concept. Phat FillingsAT Unit 3-B Mac Ronnels Bungalow, 5AA Pali Hill, St Andrews Road, Bandra West. LOG ON TO @phatfillings CALL 9112079887 COST Rs 300 onwards 4/4 Exceptional, 3/4 Excellent, 2/4 very Good, 1/4 Good, 0/4 Average. Phat Fillings didn’t know it was us. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals
07 September,2024 09:37 AM IST | Mumbai | Kanisha SoftaPillai’s Café Get a taste of regional delicacies like Kerala’s popular street favourite coin parotta (above) and Tamil Nadu’s Dindigul thalappakati biryani, made using the traditional seeraga samba rice.AT Sector 11, Kharghar, Navi Mumbai. CALL 7715990623 Santosham This Kerala-inspired restaurant offers a breakfast platter featuring generous servings of fluffy podiidlis, paper dosas, and kesari served with oodles of flavourful chutneys to choose from. We recommend booking a seat for their signature Onam sadhya this weekend.AT Raheja Vihar, Chandivali Farm Road, Chandivali, Powai. CALL 9137331639 Dakshin Culture Curry Step beyond the usual, and explore the tastes of Andhra cuisine with dishes like Andhra prawns (above) and mutton pepper fry at this cosy pan-South-Indian restaurant.AT Near Hinduja Hospital, opposite Mahim Post Office, Mahim West. CALL 9820124433 South Indian Brahmin Café If you think the now-viral benne dosa from Karnataka is a recent trend, head to this café that has been serving these golden brown buttery dosas since 2017 with the help of a team of 16 chefs from Karnataka.AT Shop 6, Kamala Terrace, Subhash Road, Vile Parle East.CALL 9137410464 Café Srinivasa This new no-nonsense Udupi breakfast spot in SoBo has all the makings of your next South Indian brekkie haunt. We recommend grabbing their cold filter coffee on the go if you can’t make time for the expansive spread.AT 51; August Kranti Road, Kemps Corner. CALL 9324499566
02 September,2024 09:25 AM IST | Mumbai | Devashish KambleFood: GoodAmbiance: RelaxedService: SelfCost: ReasonableVerdict: 2/4 For this writer, who has spent the college (best) years of their life surviving on hygienic, fast, affordable yet top-class Udipi restaurants of Matunga, the benchmark to judge any new South Indian restaurant is relatively high. Factors such as sugary sambhar or the absence of pure benne or butter on the menu are deal-breakers. So, when we see Idlay Cafe pop up with melting benne on many Instagram reels, it tempts us to take a ride on the Metro to their two outlets that are conveniently located near Chakala and Western Express Highway stations, respectively. A prominent board, and palm and plantain fronds greet us when we drop by on a Thursday night for an anonymous visit. The rains have taken a breather, and the small al fresco area of their JB Nagar outlet is occupied, so are the tables indoors. The self-service café has a relaxed vibe, and we don’t feel claustrophobic despite them serving full capacity. We ask for a takeaway, and wait on one of the high stools for 20 minutes while the order is freshly prepared. They offer options ranging from different kinds of idlis, dosas, thalis, as well as Mangalorean buns, all of which grace the tables that were occupied for dinner time. The entrance is lined by palm and plantain foliage; (right) The cosy indoor area of the new café. Pics/Dhara Vora Sabhnani To sample a bit of every section of this vegetarian café, we call for sweet benne buns (R110, all prices inclusive of taxes), ghee roast dosa (Rs 100), bisibele bhat (Rs 130) and paneer ghee roast (Rs 200). Their Kanchipuram idli isn’t available the day we visit, instead, we try the karapodi idli fry (Rs 120). Packed well, all the dishes taste fresh and the texture thrives despite the takeaway and the long commute back home. We start with what turns out to be our favourite of the Udipi largesse dinner — the sweet benne buns. The butter spreads easily over the fluffy, hollow buns with just the right amount of sweet and cumin. They taste well on their own as well as with both the chutneys. We eagerly scoop the paneer ghee roast with the buns, which is served with two Kerala parottas that are wholesome, but a tad thick for our liking. It’s hard to stop eating the butter buns to save room for the rest of the meal. karapodi idli fry emerges as our next favourite. It offers a lilting sweetness from onions that is balanced with heat from the chillis. The idli is light as air, and doesn’t make us feel overstuffed, despite the Karapodi masala that is generous with oil. The ghee roast dosa is crisp and loaded with ghee, so forget about counting calories. The sambhar doesn’t offer much to write about. Satiated, we manage a few spoonfuls of the bisibele bhat, which has the right balance of tamarind and chilli but needs to go easy on the drumstick pieces. Cheese, butter and mayonnaise may have taken over Mumbai’s fast food scene. But Idlay Cafe has a good chance of making a mark in the Western suburbs with its luscious benne, floaty idlis and well-balanced understanding of spices. Idlay CafeAT Shop No. 9, Ashish Apartment, JB Nagar, Andheri East.TIME 8.30 am to 10.30 pmCALL 9321248701 4/4 Exceptional, 3/4 Excellent, 2/4 very Good, 1/4 Good, 0/4 Average. Idlay Cafe didn’t know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals
02 September,2024 09:15 AM IST | Mumbai | Dhara Vora SabhnaniVidarbha’s vibrant flavours SWA Varhadi Misal offers a delicious peek into Vidarbha’s culinary traditions, with the name paying homage to the Varhad community from Maharashtra. Their masala, a blend of 28 spices crafted in-house, ensures a perfectly balanced spice level. “We wanted the spice level to be perfectly balanced in order to cater to the cosmopolitan folk,” explains Manohar Patil, owner of the Swa Varhadi’s main branch in Thane. The Vidarbha masala packs a punch but is balanced with Konkani spices, delivering the “zanzanit” (spicy, pungent) satisfaction without the dreaded heartburn. The misal, a staple here, is cooked in traditional earthen pots, adding an earthy richness and preserving nutrients. The owner aimed to redefine the stereotype of misal being just a quick snack. We sampled their special misal that was served in an earthy clay pot with two pavs, papad, and a jalebi, making it a full meal. While the misal was a bit oilier than preferred, the lemon wedge cut through the richness, and the pav balanced it perfectly. The crunchy papad added delightful texture and aids digestion. The meal ends on a sweet note with jalebi made from jaggery. For healthier alternatives to pav, they offer jowar roti and vade. Experimental foodies can try the misal shots and scotch misal, where misal is served in crunchy puris or with Shegaon kachoris — a bold, crowd-pleasing combo. Time 8 am to 9.45 pm At Swa Varhadi Misal, Falco Chambers Sales Tax Office, Sri Saibaba Bhakti Udyan, Thane West. Call 9920155460 CostT Rs 150 onwards Flavours of Khandesh Khandesh Misal House is a small eatery with just four tables. Located in a bustling Sambhaji Nagar of Thane, it was filled with hungry patrons, who were ready to queue up, indicating its popularity. The aroma of the misal wafted across the space. “Aroma is the key; it satiates half the appetite,” admits Ravindra Jawale, the owner. Jawale grew up in Khandesh, and has tried to incorporate authentic Khandeshi favours in their misal and sabzi. “Khandeshi cuisine uses garam masala that is a part of our masala blend,” shares Jawale. The special misal thali stands out as a full meal rather than just a snack. It is served with four pavs, signature chamchamit rassa, a generous portion of matki, farsan, and dahi vati alongside gulab jamun and buttermilk. We felt that the misal was overly spicy, despite it being a medium-level snack. It lacked the depth of flavours, and tasted more like boiled sprout water with little seasoning. “We add a small amount of salt initially to suit all palates. You can always request additional salt if needed.” reasons Jawale. The buttermilk was refreshing and had a smooth taste while the gulab jamun was soft and gave the meal a perfect sweet ending. We also tried the regular misal, which comes with two pavs. Time 9.30 am to 10 pm At Khandesh Misal House, Shop 8, Korum Mall Service Road, Sambhaji Nagar, Thane West. Call 9152130992Cost Rs 90 onwards Ga-ga over gavkari This no-frills stall in Kapurbawdi means business, bringing the taste of Pune to the city with classic breakfast staples like misal and poha. “The Puneri misal is famous for its gavran matki and farsan,” shares Akshay Kalekar, the owner. The misal is cooked over a wood-burning stove, infusing it with a subtle smoky flavour that stands out from typical gas-cooked versions. As you approach the stall, the aroma of simmering misal makes for a delicious welcome. The dish is served piping hot, accompanied by two pavs, a lemon wedge, and chopped onions. We tasted the medium-spicy misal; it had the right amount of fiery oil poured on top for the perfect hit. The sprouts were fresh; however, a more generous portion would have been appreciated. The farsan, made fresh from pure besan, added a light, crispy texture. “All our ingredients are sourced from villages because we wanted to bring the true gavkari, or the village taste to Thane,” emphasises Kalekar. Despite being a street stall, the set-up is clean and well-maintained. The staff wipes down the table after each meal and serves the food with gloves on. Overall, this adda offers an affordable and genuine misal experience that’s perfect for those craving for a taste of Pune in this neighbourhood. Time 7 am to 4.30 pm At Gavkari Misal, New Agri Katta, Palika Bazar, near Sai Baba Mandir, Kapurbawdi, Thane West. Call 9359655957Cost Rs 50 onwards Regional joyride Suruchi, nestled in the heart of Thane city, is a small, cosy spot that local residents have adored since it first opened its doors in 2013. The restaurant has a warm, unpretentious vibe, with simple seating and a welcoming ambiance. The space is spotless, and tables are promptly cleaned after each guest leaves, making it a hygienic, inviting space for a quick, satisfying meal. As we settled in, we couldn’t miss the cheeky sign on the wall that declares, “Khanyasathi janm amcha,” which means “We are born to eat.” This philosophy is at the core of everything they do at Suruchi. The menu, displayed in Marathi on a wall board, reflects the restaurant’s no-frills approach. “People often think there’s only Kolhapuri and Puneri misal, but here, they’ll discover there are other varieties too,” says Ajit Moghe, the owner. Suruchi offers a range of misal, with Nagarchi, Kolhapuri, and Puneri being regional highlights, along with Jain and upvas options. We dove into the Suruchi special misal, a dish that Moghe conceptualised after extensive research and eating his way through the regional misal options of Maharashtra. It features hara vatana, or green peas and boiled potatoes, and comes with two pavs, farsan, chopped onions, and a lemon wedge. “This dish has its own unique spice blend, made with 15 masalas,” he explains. The misal is delightfully spicy, topped with fiery red tari — a secret blend that adds a kick without leaving one with the threat of an acidity attack. Each misal is true to its origins, with the masalas for the Kolhapuri and Puneri versions sourced directly from their respective regions. And, as Moghe puts it with a smile, “I’m a big foodie. I believe we only have one life, so we should try all kinds of food. We should live to eat, not eat to live.” he laughs. To finish your meal and soothe your tingling palate, try the piyush or buttermilk. It’s the perfect way to end a satisfying experience. Time 6.30 am to 9.30 pm At Suruchi, Gokhale Road, Naupada, Thane West. Call 9869635035 Cost Rs 80 onwards
28 August,2024 09:37 AM IST | Mumbai | Kanisha SoftaTOKYO shares something in common with the chaotic rush of Mumbai. A large population of working-class citizens, commutes by train and a vibrant nightlife define the Japanese culture hub. On August 23, Atsushi Suzuki, mixologist-founder of The Bellwood, Tokyo will bring to the city his own unique concoctions in a rare takeover at Koishii in St Regis. Ranked 34 on Asia’s 50 Best Bars in 2024, The Bellwood is renowned for its quirky twists on traditional innovations. We speak with Domenico Iannone, general manager of Koishii to learn what the collaboration promises. Mixologist-founder Atsushi Suzuki, The Bellwood (L); Domenico Iannone, General Manager, Penthouse, The St. Regis Mumbai (R) Following are excerpts from the interview. What does the presence of The Bellwood bring to the bar takeover? How did the plan for the collaboration happen?Domenico Iannone:The presence of The Bellwood at the bar takeover adds a distinct flair rooted in Japanese cocktail culture. Suzuki and his team is celebrated for its unique approach to cocktail creation, which is inspired by the traditional Japanese kaiseki experience. This influence is seen in their menu, where drinks are paired thoughtfully with different stages of a meal, offering guests a multi-layered sensory experience. The goal was to introduce our patrons to an immersive new experience. What are the key ingredients to focus on in the takeover? What are the Japanese flavours that will be key to the creations?D I:The key ingredients will be matcha, shiso, yuzu and shiitake mushrooms. The focus will definitely be on the Japanese ingredients, creating an umami experience while showcasing their craftsmanship. Is there a key difference in palate to the Indian and Japanese fusion style in drinks? If so, what is it?D I:The Indian palate typically favours bold, spicy, and complex flavours, often with a balance of heat and sweetness. In contrast, the Japanese palate emphasizes subtlety, umami, and refined flavours. Fusion drinks must balance these preferences, blending the complexity of Indian spices with the delicate, umami-rich elements of Japanese ingredients. Is there one drink from The Bellwood that you would recommend patrons try, and one signature from your menu that you would suggest?D I:The one drink that I would recommend from the Bellwood menu is Something-Roni. It is a 1800 tequila-based with lacto strawberry, tabasco and sakura (cherry blossom). The cocktail will likely offer a unique balance of flavours. From our menu, I will definitely recommend One Night in Tokyo. It consists of tequila, sake and yuzu. It’s simple, well balanced and umami A recipe that you would recommend people to try after a long hard day in Mumbai?D I:I will definitely recommend the mango ceviche made with coconut milk, rocoto chilli, onion tempura and quinoa puff paired with the refreshing pisco sour, a Peruvian classic made with passion fruit and lime. ON August 23AT Koishii, The St Regis, level 37, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel.CALL 8657907732 (to register)
23 August,2024 10:31 AM IST | Mumbai | Shriram IyengarADVERTISEMENT
