Yenna rascala... mind it! Is what Thalaivar would have said on tasting the rasam here, but this new South Indian place is worth a visit for its VFM Chettinad and Andhra fare
Chettinad Chicken Biryani
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"We recommend you eat with your hands and enjoy the process… it's sexy when you lick your fingers too." Typically, we'd find the suggestion off-putting but chuckled nonetheless at the benefits of the Vedic style of eating mentioned on Thangabali's menu, handed to us on a coconut grater.
Tucked in a quiet lane in Mahim, the two-week-old South Indian restaurant is named after the villain in the film Chennai Express. Its walls are dotted with caricatures of cute men boat-racing in Kerala's backwaters, and temple paintings. When we dropped by on a Friday night, the 50-odd seater was packed with guests tucking into plate after plate of neer dosas and curries, brought out from the kitchen by mundu-sporting staffers.
Chepala Pulusu with Neer Dosa. Pics/Shadab Khan
Rasam rant
The menu is extensive, packing in fare from Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh in a variety of sides, breakfast items, soups, appetisers, and mains. From the Fish Moilee and Kundapura Chicken to the Mangalorean Crab Ajadina, fortunately, there's a lot for carnivores to devour - a rarity for a South Indian joint. From the sides, we picked Rassam (Rs 35). Oily and spicy, it lacked the soul-warming tanginess that would make us get up and do the Lungi Dance. "Cafe Madras does it better," our dining companion concluded, and rightly so. Instead, we found comfort in Kola Urandai Mutton Balls (Rs 350). The fist-sized balls that crumbled at touch were made of flavourful minced mutton speckled with poppy seeds, pepper and crunchy gram dal.
Kola Urundai Mutton Balls
Paneer in my stew
Next, we opted for the classic Veg Stew With Fluffy Appams (Rs 275). The appams came close to ones we've tried at a Keralite friend's home, but the stew tasted like a dessert. It lacked spice and contained sweet coconut milk with cauliflower, peas, French beans, and believe it or not - paneer! Disappointed, we decided to steer clear of vegetarian fare and picked Chepala Pulusu With Neer Dosa (Rs 250). The simple Andhra-style fish curry had soft bony chunks of fish soaked in a tomato-based gravy, seasoned with mustard, cumin and onions. We relished it with light-as-a-feather neer dosas.
Menu are placed on coconut graters
Chettinad calling
Next, we ordered Chettinad Biryani (Rs 220). A refreshing change from the refined Awadhi versions, this version was earthier, where the succulent meat and long grains of rice were mildly spiced with whole spices. We enjoyed it over strains of Krishna Nee Bega Baro, lost in the warm memories of Colonial Cousins.
The interiors feature cute caricatures
We'd like to meet Mr Thangabali again, but will give the rassam a pass.
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