New in Mumbai: This resto-bar in Bandra ought to get its house in order

Despite inspired European fare, Amanzi ought to get its house in order (and soon) before welcoming the discerning Bandra foodie

Chorizo Party Pies with Bacon Jam and Garlic Aioli

Many approach me with comments like, “Your job is awesome. You go to restaurants, and they serve you good food for free.” I have mastered the art of holding a tight rein on my tongue that wants to tell them ‘things’.

As food writers, we are subject to much hardship — sometimes we have to try to make sense of a dish when, all around, carpenters garnish it with dust; and explain the importance of a deadline to the non-editorial human race.

Amanzi also houses a 1,500 sq ft pool

Yesterday, we stepped in for a preview of Amanzi, a resto-bar that replaces Eat Pray Love in C’est La Vie club on Hill Road. It has an indoor seating of 2,300 sq ft and an additional 1,500 sq ft for the pool area. Work was on in full swing, and the furniture was not set in place either. We can only hope it’ll be ready in time for its launch tomorrow.

We picture Amanzi minus the chaos — a rustic bar on the far side, a deck with a glass floor and sofa seating, with a portion of the swimming pool visible below. However, we cannot comment on the indoors as it is far from ready.

Flaky Tart. pic/satej shinde

We snap out of our daydreaming as a server brings us Crostini of Corn Succotash and Charred Brocolli Ragu (Rs 345). The buttery broccoli ragu mash, which has broccoli caviar, is creamy, with a spicy aftertaste. The corn, with the haphazardly chopped tomato and onions, play intruders.

From the cocktail menu, we are served Edible Bubble (Rs 410) — a watermelon martini with cranberry vodka and a hint of kaffir lime. Neither the edible bubble nor the cranberry caviar are anywhere in sight.

The Char-grilled Prawns with Herby Butter, Lemon Air and Curry Salt (Rs 495) comes topped with raw garlic that overpowers the palate. Although we love the curry salt, the hurriedly-plated dish is a disaster.

Hygiene is non-existent in the meal, and I turn down a cocktail after a server closes the mouth of a flask with his thumb to mix the contents.

Chef Akshay Kale brings us the Flaky Tart (Rs 515). On a cheesy mushroom sauce bed sit chunks of shiitake, asparagus, baby carrots and feta. We finally smile.

Fresh out of the oven, the Chorizo Party Pies with Bacon Jam and Garlic Aioli (Rs 495) contains chunks of smoky chorizo and hints of sweet apple and strong flavours of cheddar.

A continental menu, Kale has subtly tweaked traditional recipes to suit Indian palates. Cut down on the garlic, we’d say.

Opens: Tomorrow
At: 164, third floor, C'est La Vie, Hill Road, Bandra (W).
Call: 8451989955

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