Six expat chefs and restaurateurs pick local haunts where you’ll pot them digging into Clam Sukha and Paper Dosai
Boo Kim. Pics/Datta Kumbhar, Pradeep Dhivar, Sameer Markande
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I'd love to try a Korean spin on dosa: Boo Kim
Nationality: Korean
Fave picks: Paper Dosai and Molgapodi Idli at Dakshinayan
When chef Boo Kim declared his love for South Indian fare served in Matunga, his dentist suggested he should try the dosas at the popular South Indian eatery, Dakshinayan. "Now, you’ll find me making the trek to Juhu once a week," shares the Korean chef, between bites of a crisp, giant-sized Paper Dosai, dunked into garlic chutney. Kim was roped in by chef Kelvin Cheung to co-helm the kitchen at Bandra’s One Street Over in late 2015, and later Bastian too. Next, he orders Molgapodi Idli, which comes coated with ghee and gunpowder. He also orders a takeaway of both items. "It’s for my after-service cravings," he chuckles, adding, "I’d love to try a Korean spin on dosa and add it to our brunch menu. The spiciness of kimchi and the crunch of dosa are a match made in heaven."
TIME: 11 am to 11 pm
AT: Hotel Anand, Gandhigram Road, Juhu.
CALL: 30151512
COST: Rs 245 (Paper Dosai); Rs 165 (Molgapodi Idli)
Their rotis are huge: Pablo Naranjo Agular
Nationality: Colombian
Fave picks: Beef Chilly Fry Masala at Bagdadi
Four months after arriving in Mumbai, chef Pablo Agular, who co-helms Le15 Café in Colaba with Pooja Dhingra, ventured solo on a SoBo trail. That’s when he discovered Bagdadi, a landmark eatery in Colaba.
Pablo Naranjo Agular
"It was packed! The number of people, the noise, and an old school-style kitchen that I spotted inside drew me in," recalls Agular, now a regular. "I love their Beef Chilly Fry Masala, Chicken Chilly, Mutton Trotters and Mutton Biryani. Their rotis are huge and have an amazing smoked, slightly burnt flavour from the tandoor. I try something new each time I visit," he says.
TIME: 12 pm to 12.30 am
AT: Tulloch Road, behind Taj Mahal Hotel, Colaba.
CALL: 22028027
COST: Rs 135
Jeremie Horowitz
Everything is made fresh: Jérémie Horowitz
Nationality: Belgian
Fave picks: Chicken Roll at Kathi Kabab Rolls
"I wish this place was open till late at night. It would make for a perfect after-party hangout," says Jérémie Horowitz standing at Kathi Kabab Rolls, a roadside joint set up on a pavement opposite High Street Phoenix in Lower Parel. In the city since 2006, the restaurateur, who is co-partner at Café Zoe, tucks into the joint’s Chicken Rolls at least once a month. "I discovered it two years back, thanks to my business partner Viraf [Patel]. It’s on my way to the gym. Usually, I avoid rolls because I’d have to spend longer on the treadmill but I can’t resist the Chicken Roll. If I had my way, I’d come here every day." The roll packs in a bunch of flavours in its flaky, paratha-like wrap. "What I love is that everything is made fresh; no leftovers," he says, and gives the owner, Satish Shewale, a friendly wave. An engineer by profession, Shewale lived for many years in the USA before returning to Mumbai and launching this eatery. How does Horowitz know that? "He is also a regular at our restobar."
TIME: 11 am to 9.30 pm
AT: Bara Building, SB Marg, Lower Parel.
CALL: 33956018
COST: Rs 70
Alexis Gielbaum and Nick Harrison
It fit our budget: Nick Harrison and Alexis Gielbaum
Nationalities: Canadian, French
Fave picks: Stuffed Crab, Clam Sukha at Jai Hind Lunch Home
Ottawa-born Nick Harrison and Parisian chef Alexis Gielbaum chatter in French as they relish Clam Sukha with Neer Dosa and Stuffed Crab at Jai Hind Lunch Home. "We’re not sure if eating with hands makes the food taste better, but it’s certainly more enjoyable," says Harrison, who first met Gielbaum in Delhi. Having moved to Mumbai, they are co-founders of the new French resto-lounge Slink & Bardot in Worli. "I had my first meal here in 2008," recalls Harrison. The chef adds, "When Nick and I were between projects, money was tight, but Jai Hind always fit the budget. We love everything about it — the bang-on flavours, the humble
ambience, and also how no one stares at us!"
TIME: 11.30 am to 3 pm; 7.30 pm to 11.30 pm
AT: Pali Naka, Bandra (W).
CALL: 26483383
COST: Rs 335 (Stuffed Crab); Rs 230 (Clam Sukha)
Seefah Ketchaiyo
The flavours are balanced: Seefah Ketchaiyo
Nationality: Thai
Fave picks: Butter Chicken and Dal Makhani at Butter Chicken Factory
From Pad Thai to Kao Soi, a northern Thailand sibling of the Burmese khow suey, chef Seefah Ketchaiyo has been offering authentic flavours from her native cuisine to Mumbaikars since 2011 — first at San-Qi and now at The Blue. She launched the latter with Karan Bane (the duo worked together at the Worli fine-dine) early this year.
But guess what the Thai chef craves after a long day at work? Dal Makhani and Butter Chicken. Her pick for the fare is Butter Chicken Factory’s Pali Hill outlet, right down the road from her Jap-Thai eatery. "Here, the flavours are balanced, unlike several other Indian restaurants that serve food with too much masala," she says, with a smile.
TIME: 12 pm to 4 pm; 7 pm to 12 am
AT 16th & 33rd Road Junction, Pali Hill, Bandra (W).
CALL: 33956092
COST: Rs 310 (Butter Chicken), Rs 275 (Dal Makhani)