Mumbai Food: Six places to head to for your 3 am breakfast binge

Mumbai is a city that never sleeps. It also never stops eating. Gaurav Sarkar goes looking for grub across SoBo and the suburbs to find six fly-by-night vendors who hawk delicious after-hour breakfasts

Chembur's earliest riser
If you happen to be passing by Chembur by 4.30 am, and catch a whiff of some freshly cooked South Indian fare, chances are that it (the aroma) is emanating from Ravindra Gowda's makeshift setup outside Chembur railway station.

Groups throng the stall; the File Pics, Sameer Markande

The man serves a fresh variety of Poha, Idli, Upma, and Dosa.

All of it whipped up in the early hours of the morning. His simple but delicious delicacies are polished off by 5.15 am.
Who: Ravindra Gowda
Famous for: Poha, Upma, Dosa, Idli
Price: Under Rs 20
At: Outside Chembur railway station.

Versova's idli guru
In the lane right next to Legacy of China restaurant in Seven Bungalows, which, by the way, is devoid of streetlights, one can (on most days) spot a man and his cycle, skulking in the corner. This suburban superhero, who's superpower lies in satisfying the nocturnal cravings of suburban dwellers — most being road-ripping biker boys of Yari Road — serves up steaming hot idlis with chutney that he carries around in a container placed upon his bicycle. Most people dropping by are regulars, who have been eating here for decades. However, when we tried to locate him throughout a very rainy week, he couldn't be spotted at his usual location. Damn you, rains!
Who: The elusive Idli guy
Famous for: Idli
Price: Rs 20
At: Seven Bungalows, Versova.

Vijay preps the Bun Maska before customers arrive. Pics/Bipin Kokate

Bun Maska under cover
For as long as SoBo peeps can recall, the man standing in a corner against the footpath, right outside Churchgate Station, has been serving bun maska to hungry midnight folk. Protective of his space, and wary of journalists and photographers. Although this man refused to let us take any pictures or share information, it doesn't take away the fact that his setup sees scores of people from 3 am onwards. A regular haunt for midnight commuters, he sets up a table against Churchgate Station wall, on the footpath, and now, during the monsoons, behind a plastic sheet. He also serves up the occasional bun-jam, adding a touch of sweetness to the fare.
Famous for: Bun Maska
At: Footpath outside Churchgate Station.

Jam-happy mornings
Shukla has been setting up his table outside the Canteena Juice Centre for the past nine years. Known to serve up a breakfast classic — bun maska and jam-bun — Shukla, hails from Allahabad. Every night at 2.30 am, he sets up shop, and is frequented by scores, all of whom relish the simple bread-butter and chai combo to sustain them through the night. Shukla lives above the juice centre with his mother, five daughters, and a son. He also sells cigarettes, which adds to his fan base among nightcrawlers.
Who: Vijay Bahadur Shukla
Famous for: Bun maska/ jam bun
Price: Rs 11
At: Outside Canteena Juice Centre, opposite Metro in Colaba Causeway.

Vinod's chai is a huge draw for nightcrawlers

Chai high in Colaba
The “lambi race ka ghoda,” Vinod, has been setting up his late-night tea stall for 20 years. Vijay and him coexist with each other, just like how Vinod's chai needs Vijay's delicious bun maska to be dipped in it. The more talkative of the duo, Vijay pointed out that most customers who came here at odd hours, were foreigners. “Once, I had a rich NRI man tell me that this was the best chai he had had in India,” he says. chai woke up this reporter at dawn, all yawns forgotten.
Who: Vinod Upadhyay
Famous for: Chai
Price: Rs 10
At: Outside Canteena Juice Centre, opposite. Metro in Colaba Causeway.

Chandrahas Shetty serves up Upma-Poha

Poha-Upma party
If you've never eaten Poha-Upma made by a Shetty, this man's freshly made breakfast delicacy should be the first one you should try. Shetty's Poha-Upma is served hot and tasty, and has an authentic South-Indian flavouring to it, making it one of the go-to places in SoBo for creatures of the night. The 26-year-old hails from Mangalore, and has been setting up shop here for the past three years. “I start making the Poha-Upma at 2 am, and set up shop by 3-3.30 am,” he informs.
Who: Chandrahas Shetty
Famous for: Poha/Upma
Price: Rs 12-15
At: Outside Canteena Juice Centre, opposite Metro in Colaba Causeway.

"Exciting news! Mid-day is now on WhatsApp Channels Subscribe today by clicking the link and stay updated with the latest news!" Click here!