Israel in a box

If you're craving falafel and shakshuka, try a takeaway lunch from Kosher at Mumbai's first Jewish kitchen

Food: authentic
Cost: Reasonable
Verdict: 1.5/4

Last November, we spent two weeks in Israel, gorging on Jewish fare in the Mahane Yehuda Market of Jerusalem; eating hummus in the old city, and attending Open Restaurants, a food festival that manages to give Jerusalem its due as a food destination.

We'd had the privilege to spend time with Erza Kedem — the chef known to pave the way for new Israeli cuisine using fresh local produce — the aubergine carpaccio being titled a classic dish — at his studio Arcadia on the Judean Hills. We also met Moshe Basson ,who offers food inspired from The Bible at Eucalyptus near Jaffa Gate.

Closer home, Colaba's Chabad House, which was ravaged in the 26/11 terror attacks, opened the city's first Jewish restaurant, Kosher, in November last year. It follows certain preparation rules (kosher) like not consuming meat and dairy together, and using different utensils and set-ups such as kitchen sinks, for each.

Shakshuka

On our return, we were craving for the fresh salads, and delicious kanafee (a sugary dessert made with goat's cheese, pistachio and vermicelli). We dropped by on a Saturday, which is the day of the Jewish Sabbath, and found it closed. We returned, the next week, on a Thursday, to discover that the restaurant was open only to Jewish patrons; however, members from other faiths were welcome to order takeaways from the same menu, which is what we decided to do.

We drove towards Nariman Point's inviting promenade, and turned it into a picnic by the sea. Like old-school garden picnics, we opened dabbas of shakshuka (Rs 330), falafel, and a chicken steak with sides of the knotted challah bread. For the challah, the baker takes part of the dough and puts it aside as an offering to the priest. The bread is moist, airy, and we dunk it into the tomato sauce of the shakshuka, and take a bite of the poached egg. Since it has been sealed in the container, the runny egg has hardened a bit. We are nevertheless, transported to Tel Aviv, where we indulged in a daily breakfast of the African dish, shakshuka. The sauce stands out with its spice-forward taste of paprika and garlic with the sweetness of sugar.

Falafel

During our travels, we'd picked a tub of tahini, from a stone-grinding kiln turning sesame into sauce ,from Jerusalem. Once home, it was devoured with everything; including thepla! Here, in the falafel in pita (Rs 300), the chickpea balls are drenched in the sesame sauce. The salad of tomatoes, cucumber and cilantro add a fresh crunch.

The jus of the chicken steak (Rs 600) is a delicate, watery broth bomb. The meat is tender, and we slide our fork into the creamy mashed potatoes. The side of grilled vegetables makes it a compact meal we would love to order on a work day.

Challah bread

We are oblivious to the passersby who steal sneaky glimpses of our spread, and brush aside a few pesky crows who wait for crumbs. We clean up and soak in the view; our feet dangling above the tetrapods. There's one more dish to savour, the babkeleh — a type of grandma's cake with crunchy chocolate. From the sugary and moist version in Israel, this one is drier, and reminds us of a bready Swiss roll. Israeli food truly is a collation of what the Jews ate from all over the world. If world on a plate was a cuisine, this fare would be most representative of it.

Babkeleh

On Sunday to Thursday from 9 am to 9.30 pm; Friday from 9 am to 3 pm
At Chabad of India, 5 Hormustji Street, opposite 4th Pasta Lane, Colaba.
Call 9769060840

Food review rating: 4/4 EXCEPTIONAL, 3/4 EXCELLENT, 2/4 VERY GOOD, 1/4 GOOD, 0.5/4 AVERAGE

Kosher didn't know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals

Catch up on all the latest Mumbai news, crime news, current affairs, and also a complete guide on Mumbai from food to things to do and events across the city here. Also download the new mid-day Android and iOS apps to get latest updates

"Exciting news! Mid-day is now on WhatsApp Channels Subscribe today by clicking the link and stay updated with the latest news!" Click here!